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smorgana

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  1. I took the printhead apart enough to get a look at the fan without taking it out.. I could not see anything impeding the fan.. no filament hanging in the heat sink, etc, yet the fan while spinning made a kind of ticking sound just like a filament was contacting the blades...like a playing card in a bike's spokes. anyways its a 12 dollar part so I ordered one figuring I'd swap in a new one and on disassembly I'd have a better look. Well the part is backordered, so I figured I could keep printing by giving the fan a push when I turn the machine on.. it stays running after the firs
  2. Wow! That was it. I put on a new bowden tube because I could not figure out how to get the jammed filament out of the old one. Also bought a new nozzle just in case. I went to do the atomic method to clear the old nozzle before taking it out, and realized the printer was silent. The top fan on the printhead was not spinning.. I gave it a push and it started spinning. So right now it will spin if I turn the printer of and on.. but it's not sounding like a good spinning fan. ah... something is impeding the fan...
  3. I had more time to dig in to it. I loosened the 4 long screws to drop the head down to see what was going on. the filament is in fact stuck in the head end of the boden tube. the filament had developed a ring around it just outside the top end of the print head tube. Probably due to a clogged nozzle. as the filament was softened and te extruder pushed agains the clogged nozzle it created a ring. that ring is just a bit to big to pull through the bowden tube.. when I originally tried to extract, I pulled as the extruder was reversing... that logged the
  4. I have an Ultimaker 2 that I upgraded to a 2+ years ago... it has been working beautifully... Today I had a print that failed because the filament stopped feeding... There is any of a number of reasons why the filament stopped, but, as it does, the extruder chewed a notch in to the filament... I managed to get it out running the filament change program, and pulling to get past the notch.. The spool looked fine, not tangled, rotating freely so I thought Ok, just try again.. The second time the filament got stuck again... Now there is no budging it...
  5. Wow. I found this topic trying to figure out how to adhere PLA to the build plate. Up till now... It would not stick at all to the glass if there was nothing on the glass.. and all I had was glue stick.. Glue stick works well .. but too well.. even when it all cools to room temp.. you can't get the part off.. I've read people put it in the fridge, etc.. I end up prying it off. people suggest hair spray.. but I'd like to stay away from it. But I tried the salt method and it's amazing. The part adheres, comes off easy.. the bottom of the part is
  6. I have a 3 and a half year old Ultimaker 2... in the last few months I was having more and more trouble with under extrusion, layer adhesion (on ABS), and nozzle clogging.. It was the nozzle clogging that finished it. Usually I could clear things with the atomic method.. but I finally got to a clog that would not clear. So I disassembled the print head and found that it was so burnt inside the nozzle that it explained why I could not clear it. Unfortunately I broke the temperature sensor while taking things apart.. and since I figured it would take a
  7. Yes. Success. well partly... Just heating to 260 and letting it sit there for 30 seconds, when doing the atomic method got material flowing freely again... I say partly because I still have not gotten a cone shape pulled out... Anyways I'm back doing a print now and it's looking good.
  8. I guess I should have titled this post "Badly clogged nozzle" anyways... I've done reading on the forum and it's clear from photos that people have posted that I'm not fully implementing the atomic method... People get actual cone shaped pointed material pulled out... One post though had what might help.. using ABS (I am), they heated up to 260... I've only heated up to 240... I've also read around and see that the UM2 is not ideal for replacing the nozzle... so I'm thinking about doing an upgrade kit to a UM2 + if I get to the point where I want to replace the nozzle.
  9. Well I've been printing on my UM2 for over 3 years... getting very good prints out of it. One time in those 3 years the nozzle got clogged.. and I used the atomic method and started working nicely again. But now I had a lot of trouble with a print.. and it was because it was not extruding enough material.. I got like hairs width material out of it.. So I did the atomic method again and yes... it pulled out some burnt crud.. then it started flowing normally again. So thinking the cause might be dusty filament... The first print I did after cleaning was to make a dust cleaner... That print
  10. Thanks. Though Dimafix looks interesting... it can't be shipped to the USA, which is where I am located. So the parts release themselves with glue stick too, but the platform has to be room temperature. My question really is... can I speed the cooling process or do I risk cracking... I suppose i could just try it when I'm not in a rush to get parts done.
  11. I print with ABS on an Ultimaker 2... The machine works great, but I have had occasional problems with layer adhesion on tall objects. If I run .1 layers... no problem.., go up to .2 layers and I get cracks and the part is weak. But this week I have a part to make that takes 11 hours at .1 layers, 20% infill.. and I need to make a bunch of them by Thursday... so I read this forum for advice on how to improve my print settings. Printing at .2 layers gets me a part every six hours.... I'd get about 4 parts a day. So basically this is a repeat of what can already be found here... The ABS
  12. I had the same situation. Except in my case I ran out of filament during a print, so a piece of filament got stuck all the way from the feeder to the nozzle. You can't have the feeder reverse the filament out because it is just past the feed gear. Also on an UM2 you can't just push in a new filament while powered up because the stepper is energized. What I did was cut the new filament end flat so it would have the most surface pushing against the broken piece. and manually fed it into the feeder while turning the dial to advance the filament in the "move material" menu option. I did
  13. Yep, sounds similar to this thread... Thanks! I'll give that solution from the other thread a try.
  14. When you change material, during the initial feed you can (and I do) let it feed material until the new color comes out. I do this whether its between prints or during a pause print. But yes of course depending on the colors, you may find some of the original color still mixed in for a while... So If I am between prints, I use move material to extrude enough until I get a pure extrusion of the new color. Unfortunately... The move material option is not available during a pause. You can only 1. resume, 2 change material, or 3 tune. The tune menu doesn't allow you to move material. If
  15. using an Ultimaker 2 and Cura. If I manually pause a print and change colors, and then restart the print... It seems to work fine. If I use the Cura Pause plugin to pause at a layer and then change the color, and then resume the print, it takes about 2 square inches of printing before any color gets put down. I've tried letting it extrude lots of plastic during the material change, but that seems to have no effect on this. I've tried using the default of 5mm of retraction for the pause, and also tried zero retraction for the pause. Any ideas?
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