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smorgana

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  1. Wow. I found this topic trying to figure out how to adhere PLA to the build plate. Up till now... It would not stick at all to the glass if there was nothing on the glass.. and all I had was glue stick.. Glue stick works well .. but too well.. even when it all cools to room temp.. you can't get the part off.. I've read people put it in the fridge, etc.. I end up prying it off. people suggest hair spray.. but I'd like to stay away from it. But I tried the salt method and it's amazing. The part adheres, comes off easy.. the bottom of the part is nice and smooth.. plus salt cost practically nothing.
  2. smorgana

    Upgraded 2 to 2+

    I have a 3 and a half year old Ultimaker 2... in the last few months I was having more and more trouble with under extrusion, layer adhesion (on ABS), and nozzle clogging.. It was the nozzle clogging that finished it. Usually I could clear things with the atomic method.. but I finally got to a clog that would not clear. So I disassembled the print head and found that it was so burnt inside the nozzle that it explained why I could not clear it. Unfortunately I broke the temperature sensor while taking things apart.. and since I figured it would take about as much effort to replace that than to do the extrusion upgrade, I went with doing the upgrade. Figuring I'd get extra benefits from having a 2+ Wow. The upgrade was easy -- took about 2 hours... and the first print off of it was perfect... It's like a brand new printer now. I also like the firmware on the 2+ -- especially that it asks for the material type before you insert the material in a material change.. And I can't wait to try out the different nozzle sizes. I'm also thinking I should never again get into a situation with an un-clearable nozzle because I could always just remove the nozzle and clean it chemically.
  3. Yes. Success. well partly... Just heating to 260 and letting it sit there for 30 seconds, when doing the atomic method got material flowing freely again... I say partly because I still have not gotten a cone shape pulled out... Anyways I'm back doing a print now and it's looking good.
  4. I guess I should have titled this post "Badly clogged nozzle" anyways... I've done reading on the forum and it's clear from photos that people have posted that I'm not fully implementing the atomic method... People get actual cone shaped pointed material pulled out... One post though had what might help.. using ABS (I am), they heated up to 260... I've only heated up to 240... I've also read around and see that the UM2 is not ideal for replacing the nozzle... so I'm thinking about doing an upgrade kit to a UM2 + if I get to the point where I want to replace the nozzle.
  5. Well I've been printing on my UM2 for over 3 years... getting very good prints out of it. One time in those 3 years the nozzle got clogged.. and I used the atomic method and started working nicely again. But now I had a lot of trouble with a print.. and it was because it was not extruding enough material.. I got like hairs width material out of it.. So I did the atomic method again and yes... it pulled out some burnt crud.. then it started flowing normally again. So thinking the cause might be dusty filament... The first print I did after cleaning was to make a dust cleaner... That print came out great... The machine sat till the next night... and in my next attempt I was back where I started... Hardly any material comes out on a material change.. or if I use Move Material... So I tried the atomic method again.. but in this case I couldn't get any material to flow out the nozzle when I pushed the filament in.. after a few tries I got a fine thread ,but very littl. When I do the atomic method I never get what I'd call a complete cone shape on the scrap filament. And it seems as if there is a clog closer to the output end of the nozzle... So my question is... am I just at the end of life for this nozzle? Or is there some way I can clear this one.. Am I just doing the atomic method wrong?
  6. Thanks. Though Dimafix looks interesting... it can't be shipped to the USA, which is where I am located. So the parts release themselves with glue stick too, but the platform has to be room temperature. My question really is... can I speed the cooling process or do I risk cracking... I suppose i could just try it when I'm not in a rush to get parts done.
  7. I print with ABS on an Ultimaker 2... The machine works great, but I have had occasional problems with layer adhesion on tall objects. If I run .1 layers... no problem.., go up to .2 layers and I get cracks and the part is weak. But this week I have a part to make that takes 11 hours at .1 layers, 20% infill.. and I need to make a bunch of them by Thursday... so I read this forum for advice on how to improve my print settings. Printing at .2 layers gets me a part every six hours.... I'd get about 4 parts a day. So basically this is a repeat of what can already be found here... The ABS I'm working with specs say to have the nozzle heat at 230 - 240c depending on printer model... I have been running at 230, and found out here that increasing the temp would help fix the problem... So I ran a part at .2 layers, 20% infill and at 240c... and it still had a few cracks... Reading more here I found that the idea is that the plastic is cooling too fast (My basement is pretty cool)... so the advice was to also set the fan speed down to 25%, and try to enclose the printer... So I set the fan speed, and taped a piece of heavy paper across the front opening and ran the part. And wow... It worked... The part came out beautifully.. The next thing I'd like to learn is what's the fastest way to get the part out of the printer... I'd like to print as many parts per day as possible... If I start a print before bed that finishes during the night, by morning the printer is cool and the part has separated itself from the build platform... I use glue stick... so if the platform hasn't cooled enough you either can't get the part off, or you end up breaking the part trying to get it off. is it safe to blow a fan at the build platform to speed cooling, or will that lead to cracking too?
  8. I had the same situation. Except in my case I ran out of filament during a print, so a piece of filament got stuck all the way from the feeder to the nozzle. You can't have the feeder reverse the filament out because it is just past the feed gear. Also on an UM2 you can't just push in a new filament while powered up because the stepper is energized. What I did was cut the new filament end flat so it would have the most surface pushing against the broken piece. and manually fed it into the feeder while turning the dial to advance the filament in the "move material" menu option. I did that just enough to get extrusion out of the nozzle, then I printed something unimportant to use up the broken piece. As others have noted, until you get past the break, retraction doesn't work so the quality of the part suffers.
  9. Yep, sounds similar to this thread... Thanks! I'll give that solution from the other thread a try.
  10. When you change material, during the initial feed you can (and I do) let it feed material until the new color comes out. I do this whether its between prints or during a pause print. But yes of course depending on the colors, you may find some of the original color still mixed in for a while... So If I am between prints, I use move material to extrude enough until I get a pure extrusion of the new color. Unfortunately... The move material option is not available during a pause. You can only 1. resume, 2 change material, or 3 tune. The tune menu doesn't allow you to move material. If you change material and go right into "move material", and wait for the head to come up to temp.. It takes quite a bit of knob turning before any material extrudes out. My impression is that after a color change during a pause , no material is extruded at all for a while. I know this because I was printing a vertical thin object. It printed several layers before material started extruding, and eventually started printing "in the air" once material started coming out. This is odd because, as I said, during the material change, you can allow a lot of material to flow out before hitting "ready" to go on to the next step in the change material process. It is as if it is retracting material after the color change, and it is not accounted for in the printing process. Note this is not a noticeable problem if you only change colors between prints because at the start of every print, the printer extrudes quite a bit of material at the edge of the build platform before starting with the print. Ever notice you can hear the material feed motor running well before material starts to come out?
  11. using an Ultimaker 2 and Cura. If I manually pause a print and change colors, and then restart the print... It seems to work fine. If I use the Cura Pause plugin to pause at a layer and then change the color, and then resume the print, it takes about 2 square inches of printing before any color gets put down. I've tried letting it extrude lots of plastic during the material change, but that seems to have no effect on this. I've tried using the default of 5mm of retraction for the pause, and also tried zero retraction for the pause. Any ideas?
  12. smorgana

    Crazy Stuck!

    It's an interesting discussion... razor blades vs wood chisels. But I'll be looking for the part to just pop off once cooled. It really should.
  13. smorgana

    Buildplate moved during print?!

    could it be that the extruder seriously dug into the already printed plastic and had enough force to push the plate out of position, popping the clips open? could be a problem with your z-axis? or plate height?
  14. smorgana

    Crazy Stuck!

    I have a wood chisel -- will try next time -- was wondering about using it on glass though....
  15. smorgana

    Crazy Stuck!

    Now I have an answer... Use a razor blade to get some non-contact, then use running water while prying up and down... It finally popped off! If the build plate was not removable... that part'd still be in there...
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