printerfan

Valcrow what nozzle size, speed, and layer height should I use to get the absolute best print quality on an Ultimaker Original? I only care about print quality, if it takes me days to print, so be it.

Peggy What settings do you use when you are printing at .06 mm layer height? What size nozzle do you use?

Gr5 How do I determine the degree of my Bowden springiness, if its too springy how would I correct it? My quick coupler broke and I replaced it by combining parts from the two designs below, not sure if that would effect Bowden springiness: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17027 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:65838 Also I'm still hung up on knowing how much my printer is extruding? Is Cleven's calculator is telling me my printers flow speed when I put in my values into it for print speed, nozzle size, and layer height?

Cleven I read the thread you linked and inserted the values I am using for my nozzle size, layer height, print speed and left the values you had inserted for max flow and SF. The calculator gave me a flow speed of .05. What does that mean, what should I do with that information to improve my prints? Also what is the 10mm3 test? Nozzle size = .4 Layer height = .06 Print speed = 20 Flow =.05 Max flow = 10 SF = 1 Max speed = 417 Max layer = 1.26

I reprinted the skull with the exact same settings as the last print; however, decreased the speed from 50 m/s-->40 m/s and increased the top/bottom thickness from .8-->.9. The skull feels heavier and is slightly taller (likely from the increased top/bottom thickness), the overall resolution and print quality is essentially the same. The spiral design is somewhat less prominent, but I am not sure if it is due to the increased top/bottom thickness or simply individual print variation. Should I try to increase the top/bottom thickness to 1.0 or higher to see if I can eliminate the spiral design?

Valcrow, when you say a glass bed gives you seamless joins, is this because it results in such a flat bottom surface? If so, does the glass bed have to be heated? Lepaul, I bought my Ultimaker Original used and it did not come with a fan. I need to install a fan, but I don't know which fan is the best, whether I should do dual or single fan, what shroud to print, ect. I will likely create another thread asking for fan advice.

Does printing multiples improve the quality or simply give you a handful of choices to select the best result?

I believe Kinect Fusion can not only do image processing, but it can also generate a mesh that you can export as a .stl file. Are you using a Kinect V1 or V2? Microsoft just released the adapter cable for the Kinect V2 to allow the xbox one Kinect V2 to be connected to a PC. I want to try this as well, but simply have not had the time. Below is the link for Kinect Fusion, let me know what you think of the software if you give it a shot, but I think its probably what you are looking for. http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dn188670.aspx

Nallath are you recommending I reduce the top/bottom layer thickness to reduce the spiral effect at the top of the skull? I have considered printing 2 pieces and gluing them together, but I saw a thread a month ago that showed someone with a heated glass bed creating perfectly flat bottoms on their prints. Ironically, I didn't save it and now that I'm printing its a issue I am having.

Thank you for the link, I will definitely give your calculator and that thread some attention. I am very new to 3d printing, so forgive my ignorance, but is flow rate a parameter we can control through cura or the ulticontroller? If not, is it preset by the firmware?

My understanding is that the lower the layer height you select, the slower your print should be if you want an accurate model. However, I'm sure there is a point of diminishing returns where slower speed for a given height will no longer yield a better print, just a longer print time. Has anyone figured out a rule or thumb or a general range of print speeds for certain layer heights? For example, how slow should one go for .06 mm layer height to maximize accuracy? What about .1mm?

I have an Ultimaker Original and the 4 bed springs seem to have lost much of their resistance. For example, when trying to raise my print bed, I cannot bring the bed closer than about 1 mm away from the nozzle because the springs don't have the strength to push the bed up higher. Loosening the screws is futile as the problem is the weak springs. I have also tried raising the bed via the z-axis adjuster at the bottom of the printer, but I've already maxed out the height and it hits the stopper. Where can I purchase new springs? Someone mentioned D2150 springs are used in the ultimaker 2 and are superior. Will these fit an Ultimaker Original, if so where can I buy them?

Okay time to update. The new settings listed below yielded the following prints: Top/bottom thickness = .8 Shell thickness = .8 Fill density = 30% Speed = 50 m/s Layer height = .1 Scale = .35 Support: Brim No Fan installed The top image shows a spiral like design at the top of the skull, how can I reduce/eliminate this defect? The bottom image shows very rough, very stringy bottom. I used brim support, but even if I scrap the bottom layer it to try to remove the poor looking strands, it still looks bad. Any suggestions to resolve the roughness and stringing of the bottom of the print?

Thanks for the reply, this is very helpful. Do you have another link for the relay? The link for the relay posted above appears broken or the item is discontinued.

Thanks for the reply, the owner got back to me and he said they are .4 mm.

I purchased as used Ultimaker Original, but it did not come with the USB cable to connect my printer to my computer. I've been printing via inserting an SD card into the Ulticontroller, but I didn't know if I could update firmware via the SD card. Can I update the firmware via an SD card? If not, where can I order a new USB cable for the Ultimaker or would a Rasberri Pi be able to transmit the firmware data wirelessly to my printer?

Top/bottom thickness = .6 Shell thickness = .8 Fill density = 20% What do you recommend I change these settings to? Should I change any others as well?

I have an Ultimaker Original with no printer fan installed. The room I print in is around 54-57 degrees on average and I have had to increase my printing temperature for PLA to 220 to get decent prints. It appears to me that a cold environment makes the PLA harder much faster. Can anyone comment on the effect of room temperature on print quality? How does a printer fan improve print quality?

I purchased a used Ultimaker Original with dual extrusion; however, the previous owner did not tell me the size of the nozzles installed. How can I find out what size my nozzles are on my UMO?

Thanks so much! Images are now uploaded, so if anyone has any suggestions to correct the minor flaws in my prints, please let me know.

I am interested in getting a heated bed for my ultimaker original; however, found the price for the official heating bed to be rather extreme. I found one on ebay that looks nice and for a great price: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Reprap-3d-Printers-MK2-PCB-Aluminium-plate-/161157442118?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123 Its sold by http://www.ebay.com/usr/3dprinting_hk?_trksid=p2047675.l2559, who I think has posted on this forum before; however, the item is out of stock and I have not received an email back from them regarding when they will get more heated beds in stock. I have a spare power source that I can use for a heated bed, but not much other spare parts besides that. Any recommendations for a heated bed for an Ultimaker Original?

I printed a skull the other day and here are the results. The detail in general is pretty good, but there are some imperfections on the top of the skull that I would prefer not to be there. I am working with an Ultimaker Original, no fan, and the room I print in is rather cold (57 degrees Fahrenheit), but I had a space heated set next to the printer as the cold temperature of the room seemed to make the PLA dry to quickly. Also, settings were at 50 m/s, .1 mm layer height, at .35 scale. Any advice to help me get better prints would be much appreciated.

Oh this isn't me in the video, I came across it and felt community may benefit from a fan upgrade. I'm still waiting on my ultimaker to arrive

A nice printable cooling shroud upgrade:

I believe you are correct Valcrow, I ask because I am purchasing a used Ultimaker Original and wondering what upgrades are worth adding.