printerfan

This is a brilliant solution, thank you. I will play with Meshmixer as well, but I tried Netfabb first and found it really easy to do. I will post some basic instructions explaining on how to cut and export the parts to Cura.

Does the UMO heated bed expand my UMO bed space to be equivalent to the UMO+?

I think the tap and die is a good idea, but I've never used one. Being short on funds, a $30 loss would be painful if I didn't get it to work and still had to order new parts. Is there a cheaper source? I've seen some of these parts on ebay for much cheaper, any opinion on them?

Yeah, I read that in the TOS and immediately stopped, its unethical in my opinion.

Valcrow, I read that same language in Autodesk's 123D license agreement. I'm not using it to create commercial products, I'm using it to learn, but what if I'm tinkering while learning and come up with a cool design? Looks like I'm going to strictly use them for tutorials then move on to the pro version.

I tried to put the nozzle back on and it seems the threading in the aluminum heating block is stripped. I tried two different nozzles and both start angling sideways when I turn them into the aluminum block. I'm not sure why it stripped so easy, how much is this going to cost me? Where do I get a new aluminum block?

Nvm I went ahead and did it by going to 210 then shutting off the machine to let it cool. Surprisingly, the plug was PLA. There was some burnt fragments that may have been a different filament. But most was the PLA I was feeding it. I can now clearly see through the hole. Should I reload the PLA and see if it will extrude?

What temperature should I set it at?

I removed the Bowden and the nozzle. Filament won't feed through and by looking down the hole it appears that the tunnel at or before the aluminum block is clogged with filament. How should I preceed?

I have recently began working with some of the free 3D modeling software such as Autodesk's 123D. Autodesk and other companies offer free software packages and also free student versions of their software. However, I thought to myself, "who owns the commercial rights to my designs?" Under the free software license, do creators own the rights to their designs or do the software companies? Does the free software license allow the creator to distribute their design for commercial purposes? If not, will upgrading to the paid version allow you to transfer designs made in the free version to be distributed commercially?

Thanks for the replies. I have both Netfabb and Meshmixer on my PC. Do you happen to have a link for a video showing me how to do divide my model in these programs?

Please do not add badges or any "rewards" system for posts, as mentioned before, it will lead to irrelevant posts being made to bolster one's rating. I do not feel this forum needs an "extrinsic motivator" to get people to post, people are here because they are passionate about design and technology. Passion is an "intrinsic motivator" that does not need an external driver. I encourage you to read the Cognitive Psychology literature in regards to introducing extrinsic reinforcement to a system that was already sufficiently maintained by intrinsic reinforcement; in a short words, it ruins the system by altering the perceived value of the intrinsic motivator...

Haha Lepaul I used samples too, very cheap at less than $4 each sample

I have an UMO with dual extrusion. The second nozzle has not worked since purchasing my ultimaker from the previous owner. Reading through the forums I came to the conclusion the nozzle was probably clogged. I attempted the atomic pull method, but I could not free the bowden tube from the print head. Perhaps I did not push the white piece far enough down, but I was pulling the bowden tube with enough force that I decided to stop before I damaged the printer. Undeterred I decided just to remove the old nozzle and replace it with a clean one. When I removed the old nozzle, I found it filled with burnt filament. After putting on the clean nozzle I returned the temperature to 210. I tried to extrude filament using the extruder wheel, but no filament came out of the nozzle head. I turned the temperature up to 260 and continued turning the extruder wheel and only a few drops of red black liquid came out of the nozzle (my PLA is grey) and it began to smoke lightly. So, I put the printer on cooldown and removed the new nozzle, now it too was filled with melted filament, but the filament was still grey. What should I do now?

I am going to play with these and see if I can get them to work. So far I'm struggling with the OpenScad Puzzlecut add-on. I can't get it to properly import my .stl files, the models seem only partially rendered when I import and compile them. Will play with these and Autodesk's 123D program's split solid function and see if I can get any of them to work satisfactorily. If anyone has any advice or recommendations please post them here. http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130111-puzzlecut-lets-you-cut-object-into-smaller-pieces-for-3d-printing.html http://www.design-engineering.com/cad-cam/free-app-helps-3d-print-objects-larger-build-volume-132090

I also am open to using another program besides Cura if it can help me divide a model into pieces.

That would work for top and bottom, but what about really large prints that exceed the print bed at all axises?

Is there an easy way to divide a large model in Cura into smaller segments, so that you can print them individually, then glue them together as one large piece?

Here are some pictures of my printer that I painted. I used 2 different colors of water based latex paint and did not dilute it. I did two coats of paint and am fairly satisfied with how it came out. The outside was supposed to be "stealth black", but it came out more like a dark chocolate brown, still looks good though. I did a paint test on the spool holder and more coats did not seem to darken the paint anymore to get it to the advertised "stealth black" color. Sorry for the inside of the printer looking so dirty, I tried to print without releveling the print bed after painting and it made a mess. In summary, it is possible to paint your ultimaker without taking it apart, but I still would be cautious not to get too much paint on the functional parts. I used a brush on most of the printer, but used Q-tips to apply paint around the motors and belts to try not to get paint on them. If you do get some paint on undesired areas, water based latex paint cleans off well with water or rubbing alcohol.

Le Paul Maybe moving this topic to the "Mods and Hacks" area would get more responses?

Will post pics tonight or tomorrow, I decided to paint the extruder on the back, so got to do that first.

So the atomic cleaning method for PLA is basically insert filament at 210C, cool nozzle to 90C, the pull out the filament hopefully with any plastic in the nozzle? Is there is of damaging the nozzle?

RandyinLA I recommend you read the article linked at the top of the thread as it answers most of your questions, but in summary the nanoparticles are in the air and they remain there for a period of time until they settle or dissipate. I agree, an exhaust fan will likely lower the temperature of the enclosure, which is counter to what we want. Will need to brainstorm to find a solution that won't risk burning down my house. :/

Printer is painted, used water based latex, but did not dilute it. I paid for a paint called "stealth black" that the local hardware shop mixed, but it turned out to be a dark chocolate brown when it dried... lol I don't think it looks bad though, just not the color I intended it to be. I will post pics if you guys want to see it.

Gr5 I do not fry food nor do I use candles, but they are both known asthma triggers. Not all potential triggers instigate an asthmatic attack in all asthmatics, but for myself smoke is definitely a trigger. I understand my asthma being triggered by 3-d printing represents only an N=1, which is why it was only mentioned as a side note of my personal experience and it was the reason I began to look into the medical literature in the first place because before that I had no reason to think printing PLA could carry any potential health consequences. Maybe printing doesn't have any effect on health, maybe it does, maybe it takes 20 years of 8 hours a day of printing to cause any negative effect. The point is we don't currently know, but if we look at the data, we know that printing does elevate local levels of nanoparticles significantly and we also know that long term exposure to small particles from other inert substances can cause negative health outcomes. Through inductive reasoning, I feel that its worth us having a discussion about the potential issues. Like I mentioned earlier, I'm going to build an enclosure and improve ventilation, some may feel the current data doesn't warrant the time or money to build an enclosure. As a community I feel we should provide information to each other that we feel is pertinent, that way people can make their own personal decision based on their interpretation current data.