printerfan

I have an Ultimaker Original with upgraded extruder, but about every 4th or 5th print the my print fails due to the extruder chewing up the filament, thus the extruder drive no longer has a grip on the filament to drive it through the bowden tube. Am I doing something wrong like having it too tight around the filament? Are there printable upgrades that are better than the upgraded UMO extruder?

123D Catch from Autodesk is worth trying. Its free and utilizes captured images that you take with a digital camera or phone and upload it to the cloud, where it is processed and sent back as a 3d mesh. You probably need 40-50 pictures all around the object to get a good image. I tried it with about 20 pictures and it didn't turn out great, but I saw potential for it to be better had I taken more pictures.

I have access to a shop that may be able to cut the glass for me, but I am not sure yet, I will have to call them. I am wanting to print in ABS, but want to have an air tight design with a carbon filter to remove not just the bad smell, but eliminate the toxins as well. What thickness should I get if I go with acrylic? What is the difference between PET and Acrylic in terms of the temperature they can handle?

I have been looking for a good design for enclosing my Ultimaker Original to increase the heat in the build area and also to vent out the fumes generated during prints. I have found one design for UM2 that uses plexiglass and a printable filter coupled with activated carbon. UM2 Enclosure with Filter: Front view https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-byUQnia8oew/VA4CKj_gC7I/AAAAAAAAEnc/VJVAUyCjlQ4/w411-h550-no/Ultimaker%2BEnclosure%2B-%2Bfront.png Back view https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9u4wcllyKKs/VA4CU2upmDI/AAAAAAAAEno/A3q5PCDIMwg/w411-h550-no/Ultimaker%2BEnclosure%2B-%2Bback.png Associated Thread http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7211-um2-enclosure-plan/ Can anyone link me a good design for air filtration and enclosure for the UMO? Also, my hardware store was selling glass plates for much cheaper than acrylic, is glass a good option for enclosing the Ultimaker?

Looking for a used official Ultimaker brand UMO heated bed. Post here or PM me if you are looking to sell one.

Anyone have any idea how long it usually takes Ultimaker to ship an UMO heated bed to the USA? Shouldn't it be faster now that they have a manufacturing partner in the States?

Shiremog, That's an interesting finding, I would have thought laying it flat would have yield a better print. Why do you think tilting the model made such a positive impact on the print quality?

Jerry, "Barnacles", reviewed the Nextengine scanner and didn't seem overly impressed:

Ok, I am now leaning towards to Ultimaker heated bed. I have dual extrusion, so what does that change for me in terms of installing the Ultimaker heated bed? Also, I live in the USA, how long will it take me to receive the bed once I order it?

What do you guys think about the Fuel 3d, any potential? Definitely keep us posted on the results you get UltiArjan. Anyone have any scan examples for the David sls? The ones I've seen do not look much better than a kinect.

How do glass beds work? Do you simply set the glass on top of the aluminum plate via clips or do you have to buy a glass plate that has heating elements built inside?

Would exchanging the .4 nozzle size for a .3 nozzle help improve the resolution? Is .3 the smallest nozzle size you can go?

Thank you. I'm assuming this is the thread you are referring to, I will post it below in case anyone else is interested in installing a crossfan: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3890-the-crossflow-fan-approach/

Lepaul I print in my basement as well with the same temperature conditions. Having similar issues except I have to put my ultimaker original at 220 degrees to properly extrude PLA

I haven't seen a setup utilizing such a fan, so you have any pics or links of a setup using a cross fan?

The 2.0 SDK runs on Windows 8, but I believe the 1.8 SDK still functions on Windows 7. Did you find Kinect Fusion in the 1.8 SDK?

Valcrow that is good advice, I didn't realize I could cut the top off the model and just print that part of it. As for the temperature, I have had to set the printer at 220 degrees for PLA. At 210 the extruded PLA appears to dry/harden before it can stick to the plate and other parts of the model. My room is cold, 54-57 degrees Farenheit, could that be the issue or could my thermocouple be off?

Visu-Al Do you have any examples of the quality we can expect from kinect v1 and kinect v2 scans? Also, what modeling software do you use?

I believe kinect fusion is part of the Kinect 1.8 SDK. So download the Kinect SDK 1.8, then it will ask if you want to download the developers tool kit for it, download the developers tool kit as well (I believe the toolkit contains Kinect Fusion and some other applications) http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/confirmation.aspx?id=40278

Thanks for helping me cleven. How do I perform the flow test to determine if my flow is between 7-10mm3/s? Also, do you have a link to gru's notes?

What is a cross fan, is it mounted on the print head? I plan on printing various materials, so not sure if that changes things

Has anyone created a printable feeder designed to be more compatible with flexible filaments?

I have a used Ultimaker Original that did not come with a fan installed. Any recommendation for a fan (single or dual) and shroud I should install?

Peetersm Thanks for the reply, pics would be great. Why did you decide on washers instead of purchasing new springs? Were you also having difficulty sourcing a spring of appropriate size and tension? Peggy Thanks for replying, I tried moving the z-limit switch box, but the bed still contacts the switch above the point that the springs can extend. So ultimately the issue is with the springs not being strong enough to raise the bed high enough.

I never thought of that, I will likely start printing in multiples now. But it seems that when I print multiple objects, the printer completes one model before moving to the next, do I need to change a setting in cura to get the printer to jump between models during a print? Also what are the proper retraction settings for multiple objects?