lance-greene

so i had to get a new hotend pack and heater element for my printer and in the bag was this little piece, i have the official assembly book and it doesnt show this piece

so my printer suffered a catastrophic failure and i basically need all the main hot end parts. i know how to do everything except attach the heater cartridge and the temp sensor to the circuit board side of the printer, i havent looked to see how it connects, is it just a plug? do i need to solder it?

hey so my UM2 recently suffered a catastrophic failure and i need a new heater element, temp sensor, heater block, and insulator. just wondering if these ship out of the states yet or if they still have to be sent from the UK?

i printed that tire at 0.25 layers, no retraction, and oiled the filament. with a print in the 20+ hours it definitely needs oil to prevent jamming. also updated main post

so i printed this tire for an RC car. the designer of this file hasnt actually printed it, and the only other one of it ive seen printed was in PLA so it didnt really apply as usable. my nozzle jammed about 18 hours into the print (i was sleeping when it happened) but luckily the hub was already finished so it can still be mounted to the car and used (for testing) hoping to get the model designer to update it a bit so it works properly ( a bit to flexible right now). printed at 100% infill, retraction off. 20mm/sec. 240C, i printed it at 0.25 layers, and oiled the filament. with a print in the 20+ hours it definitely needs oil to prevent jamming.

Has anyone printed tualman tritan? know what its strength is like, or any other related information about print quality with it?

has anyone been printing much with these nylons from taulman? just wondering how they hold up once they get wet, ive printed with bridge and when it gets wet they get super flexible and weak.

title says it all. i printed a rotary button for my UM2 i like more than the stock one but dont know how to get it off

taulman bridge, edited it into my original post as well

now that I think of it it might have something to do with the parts not being 100% infill. some of the nylon of dyed has been perfectly fine, but those prints were 100% infill. these ones that are turning out weird have all had 20% infill or less.

so ive been dyeing a lot of nylon (taulman bridge) recently and just noticed that after a few days or so this white powder appears on them, i can brush it off with my hand but what is going on here?

so will the ultimaker 2 ever be given a threaded nozzle so they can be easily changed? if not, is there an aftermarket heater block that can be used so threaded nozzle tips can be used?

so is there a way to reduce the amount nylon (taulman bridge specifically) weakens when it gets wet? i've been printing rc car parts with itii and they get weak once they get wet. is there maybe a better material to print with that is similar in strength to nylon?

So I have been printing a ton of bridge lately and was just wondering what most people use or drying temps and time when they throw it in the oven?I usually let it sit in the over for 2 hours or so every morning when i intend to print with it. keeping it in there at 120 C.

all of the 3d modelling work ive done so far have been involving things im personally interested in, RC cars, bicycles, and others. as such i have a good coneection with the bike shops in town and i know there are quite a few 3d printeable things out there that shops would love to sell, one being personalized bicycle grips. i have some ninjaflex right now and am working on printing some bike grips with it and seeing how they hold up under real world conditions. you can take a look online of the wide variety of 3d printable things for bicycles that are being made now. the RC car from Traxxas called the Slash is where most of my work has gone, it is super popular and a lot of people in town run it, ive modelled about 10 or 12 different components of it and have them being tested right now by some friends, most of them are ready to sell but im waiting till i have a big variety ready and produced to sell to the local rc community. I've had my printer for about 2 months now and have made $300 or so off of it. I also have a potential deal with a custom motorcycle shop doing some projects for them but i need to get better attuned to the printer as well as modelling first. ive definitely got a lot of opportunity right now though. I also plan to put myself on 3dhubs and sites like that but right now my printer is running 24 hours a day anyway and its still not enough, i would have to get another printer if i wanted to do that.

Hey actually I got my Ultimaker 2 about 2 months ago and have put around 350 hours of printing on it and I am absolutely trying to make a business out of this. the main problem is that I started learning to 3D model when i ordered my printer, so the learning process has be slow and I have not for the life of me been able to find people in my city who can 3d model because I've been trying to get the word out that I would pay people to make 3d models of things so I can print them out and sell them. There is no reason enough skilled modelers and printers and you could easily run a store front where people could request something and potentially have it that same day. I've gone through 2kg of taulman bridge nylon, 2kg of PLA, some bronze, and just starting to print with ninjaflex now. I've talked to a few local businesses as well and I know they would be willing to make a deal with me once I perfect the prints I'd like to show them.

http://3dprint.com/11522/materialise-3-matic-stl-9-0/ so i just found out about this software, i dont know much about it aside from what they explain but this could be super awesome right?

got some sample wood with one of my orders. used it all to make this

so i just started learning to 3d model,, did some in 123d design and decided to start trying out autocad. i usually make a 2d sketch of the part and extrude it into 3d, so i have a 2d sketch in autocad and was wondering if i can move that 2d sketch into 123d design?

trying to print some bridge here, im using green painters tape on the bed and i have the heated bed running at 90 degrees but the part still lifts and pulls the tape off the table. is the high temperature causing the glue on the tape to weaken making it easier to lift it off? ive tried just using glue with the heated bed but it still pulls, would enclosing the printer help it more?

so i left a nylon bridge print going while i was away and it failed miserably, so just wondering how i can clean burnt nylon off the brass heater block? its covered in it.

well ive tried everything you suggested nigel, and still having issues ive tied adjusting the retraction settings every way i can and i cant get it to retract when it does the quick little movements.

so i just got some bronzefill, trying to print with recommended settings hotend at 210 degrees table at 60 0.2 layer height retraction speed 25mm retraction distance 4.5mm print speed 50mm a sec i cleaned the build plate and levelled it, as well as put fresh glue on it. here is what im printing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28880 with some of the fine details on the first layer im having trouble with bed adhesion, id say 95% of the base layer is fine, but that 5% is quite bothersome once the second layer starts it seems like it isnt extruding as much filament as it should. right now im trying different flow % increases

so what all can be printed without a heated bed in terms of filament types?

i just did a few more pulls like that and it appears the jam is now gone.