lance-greene

so ive had my printer for a little over a week, printed the roll of natural PLA the printer came with perfectly fine, ordered some colorfab ultramarine blue and ive got about 6 hours of printing on it and now im getting jams, and even when i clear them and continue to print, i get maybe 10 minutes before another jam when it jams i let it cool down, then use the move material function to back it out and then pull the bowden tube out and cut the tip off, then heat the nozzle up and push it back in until it starts extruding with the move function. then it prints fine for about 10 minutes before getting clogged again. should i be clearing it a different way? am i not getting it entirely unclogged?

so you were able to print on straight glass with some glue stick rubbed on the bed right? my nylon will be in tomorrow and i want to be printing right away

i knew foodsafe filament was a thing, but just saw that natural PLA is supposed to be foodsafe as well, just want to make sure, going to print me a giant bolter round to use as a cup

title says it all, itd be nice if youmagine could remix like thingiverse does.

so im looking at printing this t-rex bike seat http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:328523 and wondering what might be a good material to print it in? it should be strong enough to sit on as well as be slightly flexible, im thinking maybe nylon, or that new flexible nylon from taulman? any other ideas? it will be going on my road bike that i ride every day with (during the summer anyway) and im fine with it being a bit uncomfortable just as long as it doesnt cause me pain while im off of it. its a t-rex skull seat, my personal health comes second to its shear coolness.

they provide better cooling by placing the duct of the right side fan closer to the hotend, the stock one is designed with the duel extruder in mind, but it isnt really needed unless you have 2 extruders, so the printable version places the duct closer to the hot end providing better cooling, its really noticable on the ultimaker robot print, where his right ear is always a bit melted because of the stock fan shroud design, if you print one with the printable shroud it fixes his ear problem.

hey so i got my UM2 a few days ago and ive put on about 30 hours of printing so far and i just noticed that the left cooling fan doesnt spin consistently, sometimes itll spin fast, or slow, and its speed seems to constantly fluctuate, whereas the right side fan is at a constant speed all the time.

oh awesome good to know thanks

is there a way to move the hot end to the front and center so i can work on it?

i think my issue was improper cooling, the little tiny nubs of the hinges early in the print would curl up, and i think the nozzle was hitting them and knocking the pieces loose. im printing a better fan shroud right now and will try the bracelet again once its installed

so if i take a little filament filter like https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dust-filter and drill a little hole in it so i can put a couple drops of lube into it so it slowly lubes the filament, is it possible to get this put somewhere after the filament has gone through the feeder? has someone already modded a feeder to support this idea? im mostly just concerned with this for things like ninjaflex, but also curious what other filament types might benefit from this?

Hey I saw a guy on the forums here with 3D printed stepper motor covers for his UM2, Anyone know this guy? I think I remember him having a youmagine account or something and I'd like to make myself some of them.

also how about infill settings for it? 100%?

with the venkel design, do you use the duel extruder version or the single extruder version? seems like the single extruder version might be more prone to deformation with itsposition

hey so i was looking at a couple printed fan shrouds for the UM2 and noticed none of them mentioned whether they should be printed in ABS or PLA, does it matter?

ya its not till after the first layer that i have issues, it was on the 3rd layer and i think the nozzle might have just nicked a piece of the bracelet and popped one of the pieces off. the part is super sensitive because its just a bunch of separate tiny pieces. all it takes is the lightest touch and they pop off so its very difficult

so i used isopropyl alcohol to clean the print bed and decided to try printing just on bare glass at 60 degrees and its not done the first layer yet but its adhering way better already

well tried printing it at 80 celsius and the pieces didn't stick. i tried putting glue down then hairspray ontop of it, also didnt work, guess il try printing with the bed at 40 degrees and see what happens

so im printing a kinematic bracelet http://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/kinematicsHome/ but the little hinge pieces start to pop off the bed. im printing PLA with the bed at 60 Celsius. using a glue stick on the bed what could i do for better adhesion? increase the bed temperature? maybe 80 Celsius?

^^^^ i looked at a few and none state which filament type its printed in.

so just got my printer today, did some prints. long story short the drive wheel of the feeder with the teeth on it chewed up the filament and now i cant pull it out either way, ive tried loosening the tension screw on the feeder as loose as it goes, as well as pulling on the filament from underneath while using the "move material" function to retract it out while im pulling on it and it just skips.

Hey so I just got my printer and have done some printing from my SD card and am now trying to print while connected to my printer via USB, but i dont see a print button.

I'm about to hit 8 weeks waiting for mine to ship out. In hindsight it would have been a lot simpler to just order through Dynamism

Hey has anyone printed things like RC car tires with this material? http://filaments.ca/collections/flexible-filaments/products/flexible-tpu-polyurethane-filament-blue-1kg-spool Just wondering how it compares to ninja flex it terms of being rubber like.

awesome thanks for the size, I found an 11 x 14 inch sheet for $14 at home depot