lance-greene

so ive been printing headbands for some 3d printable headphones and since i just got my olsson block in i wanted to try out the 0.8mm nozzle and figured the headband would be a perfect print to test it on. I initially did a 0.6mm layer height print to test it out which worked fine so i decided to try a 0.8mm print to see how well it would work, it took a few test prints to get the settings right but once i got the settings tuned it printed absolutely beautifully with no feeder skipping. print times with the stock nozzle were at 90 minutes for the headband and 40 minutes with 0.8 mm layers. settings used 20 mm/s 0.8mm layer height 2 perimeters 260 degree nozzle temp 120% flow rate

i find cura doesn't seem to do a very good job at judging the flow rate required when printing at high speeds. unless its more dependent on what material you're using. ive been printing a lot of abs and while printing at 100 mm/s (with increased temp to compensate for the speed) i still have to up the flow rate to 120% to get proper bed/layer adhesion

just wondering if i adjust the speed of a print while its printing will that modify the flow rate as well like cura does?

WD40 worked beautifully. problem solved.

Would WD40 be a good idea?

ive heated the nozzle up to 180 degrees and managed to get the temp seonsor out, but the heating element is still stuck

so my olsson block just came in, and ive got the hot end disassembled, but the heating element and temp sensor are stuck in the heater block pretty tight, any advice for getting them out safely?

something better than the bigbox from e3d. if you cant do that, why bother trying.

http://taulman3d.com/best-print-settings.html looks like in this list of print settings for their material they mention that letting it cool to ambient temp before removing it is what can cause the issue. good to know.

why would something like this happen? is the filament sticking too strongly to the glass? it seems odd that I've printed multiple spools of this and it has never happened before

but sadly the other side also has missing chunks out of it

so I was printing a cookie cutter for my mom with some red T-glase and when I removed it from the print bed it left some wierd marking which after touching them I realized were chunks of missing glass which are now imbedded in the cookie cutter i printed the build plate was at 60 degrees hotend at 240 no special adhesive surface, just straight glass. when removing the print, i just squeezed the print a little bit and it snapped off. no rough housing or use of any tools. I've printed 3 spools of t-glase so far and this has never happened, I'm at a loss for words.

Wow that's $56 here in canada. still crazy expensive compared to the normal $25 for a spool of most other brands.

So I've put a little over 1200 hours of printing on my UM2 and throughout all of that the only ultimaker filament I've printed with is the spool my machine came with. the reason for that is the insane prices of their filament, why is it so expensive? in canada here i can buy a run of the mill spool of abs from any of a few different manufacturers at a price of $25 - $30 per KG, where ultimaker filament here costs $65 for 750 grams. filament quality shouldnt have anything to do with it as practically all filament these days is of a high quality. is that price because of the costs of getting the filament here? cause if that's the case then they shouldn't really bother bringing filament up here when it requires more than doubling the normal price of it. am I missing something?

so i have some t-glase and id like to print some flowers but noticed there isnt really a way to set the flower petals to print as 1 single layer thick. ive printed vases and bowls and such as single layers but that process doesnt look like it would work with a flower. any advice?

shoved the filament in, turned retraction off, and pressed go. printed beautifully

so im trying to print a part for a friend, but the part that is supposed to be solid is considered a hollow nothing by cura, and the part that should be just a hole is being seen as an internal part of the print when in layer view for some reason, whats wrong? i tried putting it through netfabb but all netfabb did was close the hole in the middle and make the entire thing a solid part

so i found this company http://www.aliexpress.com/ and they make a 1.75mm conversion for the UM2 http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3-D-printer-accessory-parts-DIY-UM2-Ultimaker-2-Hot-end-pack-1-75-mm-filament/115344_32289264179.html plus an E3D v6 conversion as well http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Ultimaker-2-E3d-V6-hot-end-metal-mount-full-assembly-kit-Jhead-metal-mount-holder-for/115344_32481039697.html I was wondering what's up with this? are these guys a supplier of ultimaker or something? does anyone know anything about them or the quality of what they produce/sell? to keep a long story short, i could reeeeeeeeeally benefit from going 1.75 on my UM2

So I was just googling different types of plastics and found this stuff on wikipedia. It seems to be one of the strongest and most chemical resistant plastics out there. It also has a melting point around 130 Celsius. was just wondering if anyone has heard anything about this material potentially becoming a filament?

so my cousin wants a print done for his work. the part will be in contact with agricultural sprays like pesticides as well as solvents and brake cleaners made of heptane and alcohol. anyone know what materials would be good to make the part out of for something like that?

hey so im looking to get some conductive filament, as i'd like to print part that light bulbs screw into, and have the little metal contacts be printed but i dont know anything really about electricity and conductivity but i noticed that filaments.ca sells a conductive PLA that has a 1000ohm resistance and protopasta has a conductive PLA with 30 ohms resistance. would i be able to put enough power through something printed in one of these to power a lightbulb? maybe an LED lamp?

so i have a UM2 and was wondering how to add new material types to the list of materials in the controller on the printer. i know you can set new values in the controller and then the controller will make a new list item for it but it just names it "customX" and I noticed it also says you can import from SD, how do you do that? id like to have lists for all my different material types in the machine listed by their actual name

just wondering what most people have found to be the thickest layer height they've been able to print on their UM2 and still get a high quality part out of?

hey so i have a print job for a customer and i live up in canada where winters can hit -30 celsius. i was wondering if anyone has info on how brittle or stiff XT gets when subjected to cold temps like this? specifically with small parts.

wow the thing the ptfe ring solves is what happened to me