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Everything posted by 3dnerd

  1. Hi geert_2, as one can see in the image some parts are printed clearly without any blobs and some parts not. So I doubt that it is a problem of overextrusion since then overall there would be more filament and not only where the blobs are. The nozzle is not too close, I recalibrated the printbed with a sheet of paper and again, since parts are printed well it could not be the nozzle too close to the printbed. The polygons are very simple big squares and triangles almost bigger than 4 cm! So there must be another reason for those blobs. The only appear on the first layer. Any
  2. Hi Greg, orthographic does not help unfortunately. Pan and rotate are smooth, but scrolling using the wheel just provides rough steps. Is there any keyboard shortcut to zoom without the mouse wheel?
  3. Hi, I have problems with my 1st layer. Sometimes it creates clear extrusion paths sometimes there are blobs, as you can see in the attached images. The nozzle moves exactly through the center of the blobs (see orange line): My question now is where do these blobs come from and how to get rid of them?
  4. Hi, I use Cura 4.8.0 and have a small part placed on the builtplate. Now I want to scroll closer to the part. If I use CTRL and Plus (on keypad) then it zooms in a huge step. The same happens if I use the mouse wheel. The following screenshots show one single scroll step: If I rotate or pan the movement is much smoother compared to zooming. Is there any way to make the zoom happen in more finer steps? Thanks...
  5. Hi, I use Cura 4.8.0 on my Windows 10 machine. I have a small part to print. I used the draft settings, changed 'wall line count' from 2 to 3, changed infill from 20% to 40%. If I slice I get a small gaps in the top layer of the lower part, see image: If I set wall count back to 2 then the gap disappears: How to get rid of the gap if 'wall line count' is set to 3? The *.3mf file is attached. Thanks for any help... CuraSmallGapInTopLayer.3mf
  6. Hi, @nallath: what does that mean now? Can we expect a better performance under OSX High Sierra in a reasonable amount of time? Or should we switch to Windows?
  7. Hi guys, great work here - please keep going on. Thanks a lot...
  8. @nallath: Thanks for reply, but what is the solution now? When there will be a fast Cura also for iMacs? @ahoeben: Thanks for reply, In a future version of Cura, this oddity must be detected and worked around. I agree! So I'm singing '...all we can do is sit and wait...' Thanks god I have also Simpilfy3D installed - and this is incredibly fast!
  9. Hello, today I updated to Cura 4.0.0 on my Mac OSX High Sierra V10.13.6, 2.8 GHz Intel Core i7 (2011), 16GB RAM. But Cura4.0.0 is incredibly slow. I cannot work with it. I made a video where you can see how lazy Cura 4.0.0 acts on scrollbars, or 3D view changes, rotation of 3D objects: Video of lazy Cura4.0.0 Why is cura so slow??? I cannot use it this way! Thanks fpr any help...
  10. HI, my rotation wheel is printed by myself using transparent PLA. So the whole wheel turned into green - that cannot come from filament inside. The color really turned into green. My daughter was with me and asked me why it turns into green. So the green color was really there!
  11. Hi, der UM2 ist mittendrin stehengeblieben dann wurde die LED grün. Eine Meldung gab es nicht. Und nein ich habe keine Tinker-Firmware aufgespielt. Es ist die ganz 'nomale' UM2 Firmware.
  12. Hallo, ich habe heute etwas mit meinem Ultimaker 2 gerdruckt. Die gcode-Datei habe ich mit Simplify3D erstellt. Nach ca. 75% hört der Drucker aufeinmal auf zu drucken. Die LED des Drehrades verändert sich von hellblau auf grün. Bisher habe ich viele Ibjekte (ebenfalls mit Simplify3D) ohne Probleme gedruckt. - Was bedeutet die Farbe grün? - Gibt es noch weitere Farben - wenn ja was bedeuten diese? Danke...
  13. Hi, today I printed something on my Ultimaker 2. I created a gcode file using Simpolify 3D. After around 75 percent the Ultimaker stops and then the LED of the rotation wheel turned from light blue into green. In the past I printed several objects (also created with Simplify 3D) without any problems. - Can someone tell me what this green color means? - Are there other colors showing up - if yes what is the meaning of the other colors? Thanks a lot!
  14. @Dim3nsioneer: thanks, I know about the other thread but it does not answer my questions. Could you tell me why TweakAtZ starts layer counting from 0 and not from 1 as Cura is doing? E.g. if I want to change the 50th layer using TweakAtZ then I have to enter 49 in the TweakAtZ plugin!?! This is very confusing to the user - or not? Or do I something wrong here? Further problem with TweakAtZ 5.1 is that I can enter layer 60 even if I only have 50 layers in my design!?! And again my question will it get fixed that I can also change the very first layer using TweakAtZ plugin? Thanks...
  15. Hi, today first time I used TweakAtZ (V5.1) to increase print temperature for the first layer, but it seams not to work :-(. 1st question is: in Cura the first layer has the No. 1, but in the G-Code of Cura 2.3.1 the first Layer has No. 0. So I don't know what layer No. I have to choose in TweakAtZ to tweak the first layer of my print (where the brim is). 2nd question: If I change e.g. the temperature settings in the TweakAtZ plugin that Cura is slicing again in the background. But if I view the G-gode I cannot find any command the changes the temperature for the first layer. I tried both n
  16. Dear all, I want to make all speed settings available in the right sidebar. But if I activate all settings then in the sidebar appears a text: 1 hidden setting uses a custom value as you can see here: What does that mean? Why I cannot show all speed settings in the sidebar? My Cura is version 15.09.90 Thanks...
  17. Hi, since I had no luck with several tries and errors I gave up printing flexible material using the UM2. I think a bowden tube 3D printer is not really able to print flexible filament.
  18. Hi, thanks to @ulttiarjan. Just one further question. I found out that both 8mm Y-Axis are not 100% straight. But how straight are the axes really if they come from manufacturer? If e.g. I measure that the middle of one Y-axis is 0.2 mm off center then the printheads movement is also inacurate. That means the head each turn moves up, down, forward and back by 0.2 mm and this can cause the gaps I have - or not?
  19. Hi ultiarjan, thanks - I bought my UM2 at igo3d ;-). But in there online shop I cannot find this spare part :-(. Do I have to contact them by eMail to ask for this part?
  20. Hi, I wanted to start now to replace the pulleys and found out something more. On moving the printhead by hand I could see one of the Y-shafts (Part-No. 1011 8mm x 348mm) is not straight. The sliding block moves up and down a littlebit so I think I heave to replace it as well. Can I get one directly from Ultimaker company? If not does anybody know where to buy one? Thanks...
  21. @ultiarjan: Thanks I will take a look and hopefully I will be best prepared for the surgery ;-)
  22. Hi ultiarjan, thanks, I checked the xy axes now and they are completely straight. I got some new pulleys now and coming weekend hopefully I will find some time to exchange the original ones. Is there anything to consider before I replace the original ones? E.g. what I have to consider to not damage anything? Thanks for any experiences you can share...
  23. @ultiarjan: Do you mean the 6mm axes where the head is mounted on or the 8mm rods? And how can I check if they are straight and not bent? Just take a look? Thanks...
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