cloakfiend
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Posts posted by cloakfiend
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Talking about copper plating... just did my door knocker today!!! Fresh solution which is why its so shiny!
Lots of photos for the curious. This was from a scan i made from photos on a trip to barcelona. No real cleanup.will age it. Will look much better then all green and rustic. Just used a nail off my pin head and dremmeled the top off. No tutorials from me im afraid. Not yet. I havent seen any complete ones online, it takes many stages.
...i just read what i wrote and it doesnt make any sense. Its late and im tired and probably poisoned a bit. This plating solution is not doing my throat any favours. I really shouldnt be doing this indoors and unmasked. My throat stung badly for about two hours. I realised (and yet i keep doing it again and again!) as i was looking at it plate, i was leaning directly over the acid bath inhaling the fumes in sheer amazement! Lovely, not. Ill never learn. Night night. Hope i wake up! Lol.
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Nice! ...and kitties too!!! Could you do a close up?
And i pretty much always print colorfabb 0.06 default temps on s5 now usually 185-195 on my um2.
Bespoke wing support default tenticles support at 13%. Three shell 1.2 mm .4 nozzle 2 fast 70mms inner walls 1 outer at 30mm. Hollow. Then a hot knife to cut thruough the support and needle pliers the rest. Then a dremmel to smooth it out and a sand once over and then into the acetone and then touch up sanding here and there and then painting. Done.
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Meow, Hail Cathulhu! Lolz for a friend. Very happy with this print, didnt spent long cleaning it up either!
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Ok painted it. Friend wanted it too much.
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Just curious but how much are these scanners? I really hate it when prices aren't included on the websites. It reminds me of expensive gym memberships. You have to directly enquire.
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Not at the moment, but I will probably start a patreon soon sharing most if not all of my sculpts, as Im getting a lot of requests. This dog and a few others keep cropping up. Stay posted. I haven't sculpted or drawn in a while and miss it tremendously! Thats my weekend sorted!
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Others are just fine!
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just print solid and you'll be fine.
Edit.... Should be fine. Lol. If the plate is even thicker, then it may not wobble but it will corrode over time. Here is a dog i made ages ago... it was perfect at the time but seeing as i drilled holes in it which i then filled with plaster and sealed with filler, the acid clearly got in through the filler hole. Regardless of it being covered with superglue afterwards. The main trouble is that any break in the pla will let in liquid from the plating tank. Ive stopped using filler completely and dont get this problem at all. It only happened this once. I learned from it never to repeat what I did. Perhaps a thin coat of varnish may work. In the plating industry they sometimes use wax to plate pourous materials.
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Its not so much the acid, but moisture of ANY kind. The problem is worse when you seal the object after having polished it already with something like say micro crystaline wax. The raw metal is the issue. I love patinas. But bubbling is a nono. No one wants layer separation. And as for the setup its the usaual anode cathode setup routine. If i go any deeper than that then i fall into the endless trap of having to explain every step which i dont even understand all of myself. Just look up the copper face machine and thats my basic setup. Ive butchered mine to oblivion by now. All that remains is the anode and stand from my original purchase.
Im gonna do a patreon if you are really interested, as this is all costing me a bit over time. Gonna give away models and make tutorials and informative vids.
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Well after a successful day of plating, I learnt many valuable lessons about the nature of PLA and plating, and rapid oxidisation. And when I say rapid, I mean like you can see these things rust before your very eyes. In fact they begin corroding as soon as you take them out of the plating tank. You need to keep some distilled water handy to rinse them immidiately. But the main issue it preventing the acid from entering the model, even a drop of it can ruin the model. This is why models treated with acetone work so well. The acetone seals the PLA making it water tight which otherwise is open to leaks and seeping through inside. Once inside a sealed plated object its nealry impossible to get the liquid out because heating it will warp/shrink the object and otherwise it will corrode in a messy green rusty way and because the plate is about 200 microns it just buckles instead of flaking off. I even tried to slice it open and glue it down by injecting super thin superglue underneath but the plate was way too thick for that and it just mangled it and the glue made things even messier and grungier!! Looks kinda cool if you like that sort of thing. I might do it as a opener for my youtube channel using my name! lol. The misery/joy of endless learning.....
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This job was one of learning, and all the coins I ended up making destroyed themselves to a certain extent due to unforseen circumstances. Thats the trouble with plating 3D objects. Sealing the object and keepin it detailed at the same time. PLA unfortunately is not watertight. I printed with a bit hollow in the center. Big mistake! as I haven't acetoned these they absorbed a small amount of acid through pourous areas of the PLA and tiny holes in the corners of gaps, and after plating slowly this trapped the corrosive liquid inside corroded between the layers, sparating the metal coating fron the coin. I tried to splice the layer open and inject superthin superglue underneath and iron/burnish it all flat, but the plate is too thick and just cutting it open and sticking a syringe underneath damaged it too much. Lesson learned. If you are gonna plate something make sure its air tight going in the plating solution, or else disaster.... lol.
The main issue was the letters were embossed too deeply and this caused internal cavities. I should have just printed solid or made platinum molds from the start. Now its too much cost and effort to continue so Im just gonna make myself some coins properly, but not 15 of them.
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Here no support at all. I didnt realise id made the outer ring larger and forgot to increase the support. Totally pointless but still worked!. Looking here i think ive got a 5 line brim which is my standard.
So damn shiny this one!
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To be honest they came out perfect on the s5 but poorly on my um2 but that was with a different filament so not fair comparison. Only one nozzle no support no pva. No acetone. Just did some with acetone in selected parts now because otherwise it ruins the detaiks too much. Ill post more pics. But in my honest opinion, and much testing and practice, all you need for 99% of support on vertical pieces is a single or dual or triple.... .4 / .6 line underneath. Its just the most efficient way of doing it. Cura should include it as an option. Obvs depending on the width of the over hang of course! Works on everything including thing vertical thin structures. And is far more painless to remove. Just needs a certain distance to connect to form a strong structure and enough secondary supports to keep it from wobbling.
I'm sure i'm the only one who actually understands what I've actually droned on about here but i think i need to make it a bit clearer.
...on another note. Those coins didnt require ANY support. I did it just in case. But i decided to print horizontally side by side to prevent the head from tipping them over if aligned vertically. I printed some without any support and was amazed they came out perfect and didnt gey knocked down and without brim too! But i like to be safe not sorry so I slapped a thin wall there that can be snapped off easy after.
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Heres a 'coin' i made for a friend. Took bloody ages. Still got 14 more to do.... havent plated in ages. I already messed one up need to re-learn or familiarise. But my kit is dying next one aint shiny lol. Need to hand polish.!
Printed vertically
For the curious...
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Nice flower things. I was thinking of doing that all over my house with gargoyles and all but never got round to it!
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Nevermind its was cura 3.4 actually. It was under print thin walls. I guess its default for the s5? For the first time ever im seeing the s5 outperform my um2 quality wise? Not speedwise though! Lol.
Could just be the yellow filament is crappy though. S5 gets nothing but tr red for quality jobs. I just ruined 12 printed coins that took 40 hours to print. So annoyed with myself. I knew the tiny details would be destroyed with acetone!!!! Oh well now i know for sure. Will post my results when and if i ever finish this commision!
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Just wondering but how come when i set the um2 nozzle to .35 just like my s5 the line wont draw. Here is the same model same size but one has my manual support the other doesnt? Anything ive missed? Just curious.
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Another thing is fire places and sources of intense heat or constant heat will affect the models a lot. The acetone tends to dry them out and intense heat even further causing rapid splitting. Also heating up a closed hollow model after acetonig can cause the model to inflate as acetone reaction seals the model from moisture... once you know how it reacts you can pre determine how to do things.
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Yes indeed. Acetone goes deep. Deeper than Eddie Murphy going undercover in Bevery Hills Cop.
It can also shrink. A lot! Ive done many tests on this. Its why you need to be very careful with exposure times and why brushing is less prone to warping than dipping which can play havok with hollow models.
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Sprayed....its so tempting to just lather the entire thing in primer but if you wanna keep all the details you have to resist temptation!
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Sprayed...primer. heavy coat. Tamiya fine primer...lame photo.
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Ive been ultra busy lately but here is mr cathulhu with a rattle can primer. Airbrush was not available. Printed 2 if these, i always end up trying to fix things and keep finding new things ti change, but overall im real happy. One is gonna be green and pink and the other pink and green.
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Just thought Id add that I used mr dissolved putty for the rocky underneath area where support was awkward toremove and clean up which i couldn't be bothered doing for a test print. It does a great job of filling in holes and areas leaving them much smoother to undercoat later. Saves on sanding! Great for filling in random bits and bobs and smoothing surfaces. Smells like nail varnish. take a bit of time to set, but its kinda like acetone you can rub it by hand and sand it later when fully cured.
I seem to have a use for many random products. anything to save time sanding of course! To straighten the base ill just end up glueing it to a small flat bit of metal so that its flush with flat surfaces and not curling up!
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My scan of gaudys bust from one of the attractions on my visit to spain earlier in the year. Came out ok. Did it a while back. Shame i overdid the acetone and the base warped a bit on the sides. My fault entirely.
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Post your latest print!
in What have you made
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Is that a face hugger type thing? .. and yeah i woke up! Lol. Somehow. Throat still hurts though. Gonna wear a mask from now on. That room is too toxic to enter atm.