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Posts posted by cloakfiend

  1. Hopefully all good now! i installed cura 4.4.1 after about 6 or 7 weird failures in a row but now seems to be printing. I noticed that printing started from the center rather than from the left or right side as before. Also wait times when aborting seem to be much longer for some reason.

    Will post if I have any further issues. But I still think the warning should be red, lol.


    That's what I get for not reading threads in full.

  2. I just updated my S5 now and its basically useless, none of my old files from my usb card work, I can't print, it crashes all the time tried both nozzles and none work. just endlessly grinds into the bed oozing out and giving errors before i have to switch it off or it just dies. I get a weird unreadable orange warning which i later read, caution hot surface ( whoever though white text on yellow was a good idea? seriously? Its completely unreadable it should be white on red or something) 

    basically upset that I have to go back to my UM2. and leave the s5. 😞

    Will try with cura 4.4 but I have so many files I made with 3.4 i reprint off my current stick do i reallI have to redo slicing them all????


    Im going into a corner to sulk now.


    Can I rollback my firmware somehow? Back one year if poss?


    Is this easily readable? I dont think so.. just curious but does anyone disagree?



  3. In my opinion after much use I am very happy with my 3d pen which was a gift from my girlfriend for my birthday which was nice. I consider all 3d pens to be pretty much identical and of poor quality so i dont think it makes much difference which one you get as long as it works without breaking and uses both pla and abs. I think having a wireless one is pointless as I cant imagine it lasting a long time and i just bought a 3m long super thin usb cable to use with mine and i can print forever. The one it comes with remind me of the ipad 2 charging cable which was about 0.3m long. Lol. All the brand names seem like made up names and dont even exist when you google them so its gonna be hit and miss in my opinion. The only thing i hate about mine is when i press back it ejects the whole filament instead of retracting. But i can get used to that. I post a pic when i find it.

  4. 9 hours ago, dfrez said:

     I would try the Pritt but it sounds like it might be tougher to get than Elmers, since it's a UK product.

    Its the grey power version that even i cant  always find. Its identical to elmers in application but much stronger and more scratch resistant on the buildplate hence printing more on it without re application. 


    However.... in all seriousness i would always apply a new coat to an important print regardless. You never know if a spot has worn through and it could just happen by chance to be in a critical spot where your model sits or some support is required. 


    But for casual prints and tests and gifts i just keep printing and printing. Sometimes ill prime it with one print as the first print sticks a bit too much. Then ill do my main one to avoid issues gettng it off. I generally stick a scalpel blade under it to let in air to get it off. Salt is much better but im told its not good for tall stuff? I still need to test this out because i use it to print on fabric.

  5. Ah thats great to know thanks! i though that might be the case, if i go even two layers on my glue. I fear for my prints. Too hard to remove. I even chipped my um2 glass trying to remove a large print. I never did do the the whole rubbing glue around with water. I found the glue it shipped with was just too weak, i did try but ut failed on my second print. My prittstick has never failed. But it has made me destroy a couple of prints while i figured out ways to remove them in the process. Will give this magigoo a goo. Any recomendation? For a strong pla one or are they all pretty good?

  6. I may try some of this magigloo looks interesting! 

    As for low level cf pla defo salt method but only at 210 for colorfabb and above othewise it doesnt always stay down. But its a dream to remove after. 

    ... i have printed loads (50+)on my gluestick which is prittstik power. But it only a matter of time before you ruin it or it starts fading and re-application is required!

  7. Doing another one now but every 4 seconds and added some salty ammonia in a few spots hopefully bringing some blue about adding to the green. Also shot in video mode as the aperture in photo mode isnt consistent and has that stopmotiony flicker that annoys me. 


    Also the shutter is so violent that it shakes the camera creating a tiny wobble on each frame.


    Annoying but a touch of stabilisation should sort that.....


    getting loads of crashes trying to stabilise 5K footage on my crappy macbook air!.....oh dear. long crash logs


    almost there!! did a few dogs ones as well 4 secs between, still green. Gonna try a few other things in the mean time....this skull anim should be done by tomorrow! only the first 5 seconds is interesting so ill do a bunch of close ups after the 14hrs time lapse reveal. I now know 4 hrs time-lapse is plenty. 



  8. Sadly it failed. Have no idea why. I need to hit up some time lapse forums. Instead of 14000 photos. I have 1 folder of 0001-2170 and another folder of 8999-9999 so upset and gutted. It would have looked so cool.


    Either way ill speed up what I got but the magic happens at the start.


    Last frame. I don't even have the first..... what a dumb system. I've been f-ing and blinding for the past 30 mins.


    So annoyed. Oh well. Bugger....


    Hold up... its weird... I actually think I have it somehow? But 1 photo every 15 secs is 4 per min and thats 240 per hour......for 15 hours....thats 3600, I'm such an idiot. I some how calculated 900 photos per minute and expected to find like 14000? Whatever it worked!!!! Yay! Don't think the last few hours added anything but I guess ill find out.


    First photo, after acid (re-positioned and de-focused a touch as predicted) photo, and last photo. Video will be tomorrow. I'm working at 5am tomoz!








    • Like 4
  9. Ok in progress. Probably out of focus now because I was rushing as it starts rusting immidiately and with the timervactivated i cant refocus. Will need to make some hidden placeholders to be able to pop it back in the right place easily... living and learning...


    To tell the truth i dont think more time will change anything but i may add some acid on by brush to even the green but still debating. Will sand it after lightly to highlight the raised areas in copper.



    • Like 2
  10. A good example of a patina is the green coating on the originally copper statue of liberty. Its the 'rust'. But it also protects the copper. You can accelerate it to film which is what i will try tomorrow. I just need to make space for about 14000 photos on my sd card. Gonna take a photo every 15seconds. My avatar is also a patina. It can be faked with paint, created with heat (obvs no good for plated pla!) And created with acids and chemicals. Spray and be amazed. Very easy to get great results even though you cant always predict what youll get.

  11. Doing my first time lapse patina on an old print! So excited! Shame I have to wait a few days to do it as the darn camera is too frickin loud at night with its clicks as the gopro is a nogo. I can hear the clicks at night and they keep me awake! So I cant do more than 14hr timelapse. Quality on that gopro thing sucks! Only good for filming accidents on the road!

    My high tech setup. 1 Cannon eos d60 or 60d cant remember, 1 timer, 1 room light, 2 lamps with warm led bulbs 4 rubble bags to cover the windows and some masking tape. 1 old ipad 2 for the model to sit on, random black folder as background, Done. And the plated model of course.



    • Like 2
  12. Haha @AndersK yes transparent CF has lots of awesome properties. Kinda looks like an sss shader. Also under some lighting conditions you can get a weird hologram effect where by you can flip between seeing either side really quickly. Looks odd on video, its just the light reflecting and passing through alternating very quickly with just a slight rotation. Ok. Enough rambling about my observations.

    • Like 1
  13. Talking about copper plating... just did my door knocker today!!! Fresh solution which is why its so shiny! 

    Lots of photos for the curious. This was from a scan i made from photos on a trip to barcelona. No real cleanup.will age it. Will look much better then all green and rustic. Just used a nail off my pin head and dremmeled the top off. No tutorials from me im afraid. Not yet. I havent seen any complete ones online, it takes many stages. 


    ...i just read what i wrote and it doesnt make any sense. Its late and im tired and probably poisoned a bit. This plating solution is not doing my throat any favours. I really shouldnt be doing this indoors and unmasked. My throat stung badly for about two hours. I realised (and yet i keep doing it again and again!) as i was looking at it plate, i was leaning directly over the acid bath inhaling the fumes in sheer amazement! Lovely, not. Ill never learn. Night night. Hope i wake up! Lol.








    • Like 3
  14. Nice! ...and kitties too!!! Could you do a close up?


    And i pretty much always print colorfabb 0.06 default temps on s5 now usually 185-195 on my um2. 

    Bespoke wing support default tenticles support at 13%. Three shell 1.2 mm .4 nozzle 2 fast 70mms inner walls 1 outer at 30mm. Hollow. Then a hot knife to cut thruough the support and needle pliers the rest. Then a dremmel to smooth it out and a sand once over and then into the acetone and then touch up sanding here and there and then painting. Done.

    • Like 1
  15. Not at the moment, but I will probably start a patreon soon sharing most if not all of my sculpts, as Im getting a lot of requests. This dog and a few others keep cropping up. Stay posted. I haven't sculpted or drawn in a while and miss it tremendously! Thats my weekend sorted!

  16. just print solid and you'll be fine.

    Edit.... Should be fine. Lol. If the plate is even thicker, then it may not wobble but it will corrode over time. Here is a dog i made ages ago... it was perfect at the time but seeing as i drilled holes in it which i then filled with plaster and sealed with filler, the acid clearly got in through the filler hole. Regardless of it being covered with superglue afterwards. The main trouble is that any break in the pla will let in liquid from the plating tank. Ive stopped using filler completely and dont get this problem at all. It only happened this once. I learned from it never to repeat what I did. Perhaps a thin coat of varnish may work. In the plating industry they sometimes use wax to plate pourous materials. 


  17. Its not so much the acid, but moisture of ANY kind. The problem is worse when you seal the object after having polished it already with something like say micro crystaline wax. The raw metal is the issue. I love patinas. But bubbling is a nono. No one wants layer separation. And as for the setup its the usaual anode cathode setup routine. If i go any deeper than that then i fall into the endless trap of having to explain every step which i dont even understand all of myself. Just look up the copper face machine and thats my basic setup. Ive butchered mine to oblivion by now. All that remains is the anode and stand from my original purchase.

    Im gonna do a patreon if you are really interested, as this is all costing me a bit over time. Gonna give away models and make tutorials and informative vids. 


    • Like 1
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