[Solved]

Well that gcode line it's weird

It should be

M104 S210 T1 ;set the heater 2 to 210

M109 S210 T1 ;wait for the heater 2 to arrive 210

but instead you have just M109 and set to 0 (edited), so it will 'just' wait for the heater to reach the temperature, but shouldn't set the temperature... so it will just wait and wait.. until the winter arrives XD

Change that

M109 T1 S0.000000

to

M104 T1 S210

M109 T1 S210

 

@neotko,

do you mean I can slice without using the "Select-Extruder" plugin then edit Extruder1 to Extruder2 in gcode?

[Extruder 1 port on UMO+ board makes motor just shake]

I know this is complicated but you are talking about shaking motor or only strange noise if you put a video we can get an idea. I installed Dual Extrusion to my UMO+ and delivered kit has stronger spring (from heated bed) and it caused some stupid strange noises and moves. Now I got replacement spring (right size) and noises / moves went away.

[Difference between layers]

I saw somewhere to look at Xray view in Cura also very interesting to see Red colored areas for problems. I do not think messed green can affect print job. Do you using 0.35 mm nozzle because of shell thickness = (I use actually) Nozzle size (0.4) x 2 = 0.8

[Solved]

Solved

[Solved]

Solved

[Solved]

Solved

[Solved]

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[Solved]

Solved

[Supports Cura]

I can't speak French (also can't write) but there is some French songs what I like to listen.

You can use Bordure (brim) function.

Cura "Angleminimal pour les Support" 60deg -> 45deg. Cura support "Aucun" Option.

Salut

[Heizelement, Temperaturfühler]

Bitte lesen ich konnte den Temperatursensor rausnehmen. Ich habe folgende Anleitung benutzt, dazu habe ich die nozzle auf ca. 110 grad erhitzt (Vorsicht bitte Backofenhandschuhe verwenden).

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/62-installing-the-olsson-block-kit

[Copper Grease]

@neotko,

Sewing machine oil: X/Y shafts sewing machine oil, do you mean also shafts from print head going to the X/Y blocks or axes where bushings moving?

[Copper Grease]

When assembling threaded components such as a nut and bolt apply copper grease to the threads, this can prevent the components from rusting and seizing together. Copper grease can withstand temperatures of 400 C degree

[Colorfabb Olive PLA issues]

Without spool is not an Option for me. I saw some manufacturers they sell their products without any spool, how the world is changing. Cola without bottle?

[Colorfabb Olive PLA issues]

I use 220 degree for Innofil Pla, 210 for Colorfabb Pla at 50 mm/s. My favorite is Innofil because ist producing overall nice prints than Colorfabb.

[Long belts rubbing against the pulleys]

This is relative normal. At the beginning you can also find black dust on the bottom of Printer.

[Colorfabb Olive PLA issues]

It is looking not so bad. Can you share your print settings. Colorfabb Pla likes 200 or lower temperature also slow print Speed like 40-50 mm/s. From your Pictures I think your infill Speed has been between 60-80, when so it is to fast.

[Ultimaker 2 - Extruder jamming and grinding up filament.]

First / Initial layer height 0.2 very good choice. I can not explaine but I started to use this twelve months before. Until now it is always working nice but 0.1 and 0.3 is terrible.

[Ultimaker 2 - Extruder jamming and grinding up filament.]

Okay I understood about Cura. Your Extruder pressure Setting looks good enough. Somewhere in Forum @Illuminarti wrote some Settings for retracting. Default settings looks like not enough for Ultimaker2 users.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/2734-marlin-bug-the-myth-of-retraction-speed

[Ultimaker 2 - Extruder jamming and grinding up filament.]

You can forget simplify3d. This software makes only trouble, people searching settings, helps. But who bought this software says it has nice supports (honestly Cura has best supports what really easy to remove). Do not forget when your machine has nice setup but your printer driver (I call software like Simplify3d like this) makes trouble. Also causes never ending story. I can only comment when you use Cura. I hope someonewho has Simplify3d can help better.

[Lot's of trouble leveling bed since heated bed install]

I had Vertex 3d printer. The Vertex 3d printer uses also three points leveling system, but one screw at front two at back of the print bed (there was no springs).

[Ultimaker 2 - Extruder jamming and grinding up filament.]

Did you checked bowden tube. [media=10499][/media]

[Power plug- can't unplug]

If you did not used glue (Joke) it is normal, it feels sometimes like tooth extraction because of the wall from printer pressing a Little against plug. You can remove it without causing any Problems.

[Ultimaker 2 - Extruder jamming and grinding up filament.]

When you take bowden tube away  take a magnify glas  and long piece of filament. Move filament until it comes out of tube hold this against light source look carefully if there is any balloon form at the end of bowden (End is where it goes to hot-end. @gr5 explained this little different somewhere in forum.

[Lot's of trouble leveling bed since heated bed install]

You tell this. I had luck I used Verbatim Pla until there everything was working really nice. But this filament was magic it was printing at the beginning nice then I saw some metal pieces under the printer it was from knurrled screw what placed in extruder, then bowden tube weared bad las but not least got also weared ptfe. This filament has been something different like there is abs or any other material mixed. I do not know but I throwed away.

[Ultimaker 2 - Extruder jamming and grinding up filament.]

Okay I understand. Like you know there is really much possibilities(more than much). My other problem with clogged nozzle or underextrusion was happeining because of Bowden Tube. Somehow it was pressed to much (maybe 0.1 or 0.2 mm) and filament was hanging just there not always sometime but just only sometime.