niyoki
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3D Prints
Posts posted by niyoki
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When I see photos from other users prints what ended nice or failed there so many Points to see. Especially when print lays on the print bed. Start from colour of filament, how brim or skirt Looks. I started many prints with perfect first layer, after 40-50 layer failure. Only caused because of a little low temperature. To make sure I'm using 10 degree more to override any extruder Problem, If there is a little stringing but I can dremel it away in second.
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You can press the plug against printer with a very Little force. Then you move collar away from printer there you can see round plug now a very litle left right shaking move and gently remove the plug away.
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Can you serve some photos from your prints? When we see a photo ,we can share your and our thoughts.
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I would say 9/10 because you used white filament. It is difficult to print with white and black filament. If you have a nice day but it is boring for you. You need some action, then take white ABS and black ABS to print something.
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I'm using Microsoft Surface Pro with longest battery life. And i'm very surprised how powerfull this small machine.
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When I change filament, also when same manufacturer but another colour, then I must relevel bed but only "on the fly" no paper method anymore.
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Thank you for photos. It is looking good enough. White is difficult to print. I prefer silver pla.
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I can't see any photo from your prints. But really small peaces need good leveled bed. Is your bed leveled to close or your objects must be printed on glued bed or blue tape or you can also use brim like 6-7 rings.
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I can imagine coming Printers will be more expensive (like 10-20% more). If coming Systems promise better print quality they all need closed filament cartridges (to keep filament away from temperature, dust, humidity or priming better before printing). When I read Forum I'm sorting in mine mind problems from users and it is looking like this:
5% 3d Printer Manifacturer/Reseller can offer free of charge local courses
15% User fault (Speed settings vs temperature)
10% Cura (I mean Cura can improve only "Quickprint Profile"'s the rest needs nobody)
15% Hardware issues (pulleys, belts, clogged nozzle, electronics)
5% Bed Level issues (Until now nobody has a good recipe for it)
50% Filament
please give also Feedback, if I'm thinking not so right way.
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Can you present us your print Settings (like temperature, Speed, layer hight or if you use Cura quick print Profile tell us which one quick, normal, high Quality) ? Which PLA do you use?
It is looking really good. General stringing has to do with higher temperature. For example pla at 50 mm/s print Speed and temperature is 210 degree if it is causing stringing I can reduce temperature. Or it is not stringing but I want print with lower Speed like 30mm/s then I must also reduce temperature otherwise it will cause stringing.
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Awesome quality. But you will not use that as a real engine part or?
I saw on youtube a video a guy builded brushless motor case and he tried to run it. After hundred of rpm it was cracking really dangerous. At 3:14
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One perfect place to read about faults and defaults about 3d printing, I think you know allready
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
and maintenance
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When you can serve the *.stl file (when not copyrighted) we can help to each other quick.
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Für solche objekte mit mehr als 100x100 mm bodenfläche benutze ich Blue Tape von Scotch. Funktioniert sehr gut dabei lasse ich heizbett ausgeschaltet. Kein warping (PLA)
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I did not looked at XY head shafts. But after moving to four springs outer edges and corners of the bed and nozzle have same distance (0.1mm) in the middle of the bed is 0.2 mm and I turned glas upside down 0mm. But I think it is okay for me. I can print good enough.
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I'm using only A4 Paper (90 gram) thickness. For me was not possible to get my print bed leveled. When you turn right or left front screw diagonal back side heigt changes also. Then you move nozzle to back middle screw and turn turn screw again. Then you move nozzle to left front now you can set heigt again, then again to the right screw there also you can change height again, then move nozzle to back middle and set height again, then to the left front screw set height again, then move to the right front screw set height again...never ending story...
With four screws you can be sure when you set one screw you don't have to move there again. When all 4 setteld one time is enough.
But also I never saw real flat glas. When glas delivered even with a flat surface somehow after using it some months you get saddle faced glas.
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I installed fourth spring . Left back and right back. Because 3 springs makes me crazy. Before i used @gr5 method. And I added 2 more skirts.
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@CuraKlatec, ja aber nicht immer. Es ist von Filament Qualität abhängig. Ich habe für mich festgelegt einzige Filament was ich ohne Überraschungen verwenden kann habe ich öfters im Forum geschrieben. Ich glaube es ist PLA von Ultimaker (Innofil). Besonders Silber. Es gibt natürlich andere gute marken auch aber teuer. Manche taugen für bewegliche Objekte gar nicht. Manche weisen sehr grobe Oberflächen Struktur aus. Für abs würde ich keine Meinung äußern da ich das material umständlich empfunden habe.
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I'm using also only pla. Abs is because of smell and high print temperature not so good choice for me.. I'm more interested about printing mechanical objects. like clocks, or some good old toys. Abs is not strong enough too (for example springs).
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Wider printbed can be also interesting. But some solutions for warping is also needed. I know abs juice or other tricks holding bottom on the place but sometimes removing parts from print bed can also be really difficult.
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Right choice. Now you can do a training with Cura. Art dream becomes true..
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@fredz, please choose any 3d printer what you want. But one with Notebook/Laptop power supply or one which has power supply enclosed in printer itself. This printers with open power supplies can't fulfil any safety regulations.
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Maybe in future when Ultimaker gets stronger image and someone can open a shop who sells only Ultimaker 3d printers can have larger hardware parts stock. Same happening in R/C Model hobby, local hobby store has some parts what everybody needs after crash or something like that but other things you also must order and wait.
regards
3d scanner full body
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
I both Surface pro for my son. Then I saw long battery time okay I Need this, how perfect its attachable keyboard I need this too, but small Screen move only thumb and index finger on the Screen you get what you want see and sure I need this. Now my son using my Sony Vaio 24" All in One. And I'm happy when I work with my Autodesk AutoCAD for drawing at work or just in garden read newspaper over Surface. I'm not working for Microsoft (I would like to do)