gareee

So you have to connect the printer to the pc for updating? You can't output the firmware to the sd card and flash it? Also, is it best to stick with the standard cura, or go with the beta? I see it hasn't been updated in 6 or 7 months, and that the beta doesn't even list the new + printers.

I don't see anywhere where you can check for the latest firmware updates, and download them. Am I missing a section here?

I've already added them to the github repo. See: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/commit/414be1f8519fc0fe208bebc71cc0c067325c7919 How do you add these additions into the beta version?

Same here. Today I got one of the 5 lb rolls of 2.85 mm pro natural filament from matterhackers. Using the same test settings on the robot, there are some plusses and minuses on the filament change. 5 pounds though for $66 shipped (after a $10 off coupon discount) ain't bad at all price wise for decent stuff. I'm printing the multi temp test object to see if a tempt change might improve printing quality.

Oh, I'm not ready to take my new printer apart...

Yay! It's printing the robot!!

Yeah, that sounds exactly what happened. Pushing that lever in the back up up though doesn't release the filament... it's really stuck in there. I'll try again though. If the feeder cover was clear, I could easily see what was going on inside. Once I get printing and have clear filament, I might have found my first customization.

As near tell, thats my issue. when I fed the filament the first time for setup, I never saw a "ast" feed and then a slow feed.. instead I saw a slow crawl for 2 minutes up to the nozzle. I leveled the bed, an attempted to print the robot, and got nothing more than spider webs. Reading, it sounded initially like the bed wasn't leveled, and the print wasn't sticking, so I re leveled 5 times with no luck. Someone suggested feed issues, and using the change material function, the printer can't pull the filament out to change out. The filament has regular marks ticked into it from feeding.. is this normal? Also, how to I get the filament out without damaging the feeder? I'm thinking the new feeder should be transparent, so you can easily see internal feed issues. I waited 3 weeks for the extended + printer, then waited another 3 days because it couldn't be delivered because of the snow storm, drove to meet ups because they were cancelling consumer deliveries because of the backlog, and when I finally get the printer, in 5 and a half hours I have nothing but 2" of spiderweb to show for it. Needless to say, by first adventure into 3d printing has been less than stellar, and I can't find any reference online from removing the filament from the new feeder system. Help? (And I thought I posted this a few hours ago, but it looks like I forgot to hit post topic because I was bouncing between my surface, my phone, and the printer.)

Thanks for the tips, guys! The snow seems to still be sticking around here, so no telling if UPS will decided to deliver it tomorrow or wait till tuesday. This feels like its taking forever!

After talking to matterhackers, they said the 5lb spools will not fit on the ultimakers (but the filament works great). They just put them on a lazy Susan below the printers! Theres a cheap, clever, and effective solution!

I would have liked if the extended had a bigger printbed, but figured the taller height might be just enough to get me by without having to cut something up and create assembly issues.

BTW, did you print that spool holder for the floor, and if so, do you recall where you downloaded the model from?

They said the 3.0 mm was actually 2.85 +-, and I specifically asked them if I should order the colorfabb from them or the pro, and they said both would work fine. everyone seems out of the colorfabb transparent, but the pro natural looks like it was mostly transparent, so I figured that would work. (I wan to print some things that I can light with led light strings, so I figured 5 bs of the natural would give us the best options for now.

hmmm... this is what matterhackers recommended...I'll have to contact them.

Matterhackers seemed to have pretty good prices on their larger spools of pro 3.0mm filament, so I ordered one, but am concerned a 5 lb spool might be too large/heavy.

We decided on the extended as well, after talking to a few ultimaker owners who wish they had purchased the extended. We also plan on ding costume props, and in many cases, you want to print as large as possible to reduce assembling parts together.

A friend pointed out the robot print left ear issue. I'm surprised with the new upgrade they didn't correct this.

Thanks for sharing these! I'm so jealous..we ordered our 2+ extended on the 7th, but they won't have them yet in the us till the 26th. (Hope we get those new fans, since we have a long delay.) Can you post a side view of the dragon? I'm completely new at this, so we'll probably duplicate your settings hoping to get good resolute like this.

Ah, gotcha! Thanks for the clarification.

Hmmm that's interesting... I wonder if there is some correlation between model poly density and model size? I'd think since slicing a larger print creates more slicing data, that it's cutting into the amount of memory allocated to poly count ?

Hmmm that's interesting... I wonder if there is some correlation between model poly density and model size? I'd think since slicing a larger print creates more slicing data, that it's cutting into the amount of memory allocated to poly count ?

So will older advise and recommendations be obsolete as a result? As a soon to be new ultimaker 2+ extended owner, I don't want to follow advise that will give me poor prints. Can't wait for it to arrive. I hope the factory can get it to 3d universe faster than the 26th.

Understood, but zbrush has excellent decimation tools for reducing polycount. The problem is I don't know what max ultimaker can take so I know what the top bar to stay under actually is, and I haven't been able to find that in the documentation anywhere. There has to be a file size or polycount that exceeds what ultimaker can handle, and that's what I'm trying to discover.

That at least gives me a start. I've searched online, but can seem to find any recommended upper limit.

I've got some models I've done in the past and wanted to know what upper limit I should shoot for as far as the number of polys in an object? I'm using lightwave 3d and zbrush, and zbrush can go crazy high on polycount, but I should be able to decimate my stuff down for whatever the ultimaker needs.