frederiekpascal

I used Octoprint for several months but I recently switched to Repetier Server (https://www.repetier-server.com/) combined with a raspberry pi3 and the 7" Touchscreen. There is also a repetier iOS app which sends me a notification when my print is finished or when there was an error. I'm using a no-ip.biz domain, opened the correct port on my router for the raspberry pi and I was set to go. I couldn't be more happy with this solution. Octoprint looked a bit oldskool compared to Repetier server. I'm sending gcodes wireless from my macbook to my printer and start the print. Works like a charm!

yes, I'm using S3D though. flow = 105% retraction = default (4,5mm & 25mm/s) layer = 0,25mm heated bed = 50 C° print temp = 210 C° cooling = 50% print speed = 50 mm/s travel speed = 200 mm/s Those settings gave me this result : I had a another awesome print with steelfill but it got broken during post processing It's a pretty amazing filament but it's also pretty expensive to play around with.

Hello, You are posting in the wrong forum, this is for the UM3 owners. About your issue. You could try to heat the nozzle up to 200°C and remove the nozzle to clean all the filament that got stuck on your olsson block. Also clean your nozzle while it's warm, but don't burn your fingers. Screw your cleaned nozzle back to the olsson block and tighten it while it's 200°C hot to make sure there is no filament blocking it. Good luck

It was worth a shot...but no go. :-( Thanks for the suggestion though. The ironic thing is that the display would be just readable if I could turn off the LEDs...but they are so bright they wash out what little backlight the control panel is emitting. damn... I hope your reseller gives you a proper solution very soon.

I had the same issue with my UM2+ a few weeks ago. Except my display was not blurried out, it had mass artifacts on the display. (full of mini blue squares) I thought "omg now I need to get my printer in the car and drive to the reseller and wait a few weeks before I'll have it back" But I reinstalled the most recent firmware with Cura and my problem was solved. Maybe you can try that?

Thanks for the tip, I'll give Reptier-Server a try Are you using a Raspberry Pi to control you UM2?

hello, Topic says it all right? I was reading some articles about wifi enabled SD cards and it seems those cards are more reliable than a few years ago. Anybody who has experience with these wifi sd cards and an Ultimaker? http://techpp.com/2015/04/28/wifi-sd-cards-camera/ http://bestwirelessroutersnow.com/best-wi-fi-sd-memory-card/ Just checking because I've ordered the new macbook pro 15" and it has no SD card slot anymore :( I know there are adapters available but still, wifi would be better http://www.apple.com/shop/product/HKR62ZM/A/sandisk-extreme-pro-sd-uhs-ii-card-usb-c-reader cheers

I'm having great succes with the buildtak "spatula" to remove my prints from the buildplate. (equipped with buildtak also) https://www.buildtak.eu/product/buildtak-spatula/ This really is a great tool

You have no clue what you are talking about matey.

@foehnsturm very nice print is that, how much grams or meters of PVA you needed to support this?

I would like to see some of the high res prints of the UM3 too From what I saw until now, the print quality of the UM3 is not much higher than the UM2+.

I know.. Sander knows.. and it's super easy to now ramp up my posts @sandervg, awesome that sounds like a good answer. also, this seems to not be a double post! Ow yes, you did it again

Understood, I was one of the victims with the bad silver UM PLA, that's why i'm not a fan of it anymore... And also I got the same results with ICE PLA But you are right it should be included in the filaments directory.

@Korneel you know you're always double posting your replies?

It's also one of the most expensive PLA you can find... I'll stick to my ICE filaments, I have 2,3kg for the same price as 750gr UM PLA http://www.trideus.be/nl/pla-brave-black-23kg.html