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gareee

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Everything posted by gareee

  1. The bowden is tight at both ends. I'm already running hatchbox filament temp pretty low.. its rating is 180-210, it seems to print best at 184, and if I leave the printer on its default 210 it actually liquefies and drips out! Something else thats been bothering me, is when the head travels across infill or edges, sometimes it seems to hit slightly. (Not causing print issues, but I'd think that it would be travelling up above that.) I don't get the stringing with matterhacker pro and get it slightly with the um silver included with the printer.
  2. I've been trying to troubleshoot some issues, and came across this in the last day or so on my U2+ extended. If I increase print speed say, to 150%, the entire print shifts forward 1/8th of an inch or so. If I slow it back down, it shifts back to where it originally started. This shouldn't be happening, should it? Is there a way to correct this? I've also been having a possibly related issue of late as well. It seems one of the set screws on one of my pulleys that moves the head front to back keeps coming loose every other day. This shouldn't be happening either, correct? I haven't come across any other posts about this issue anywhere else.
  3. Thanks. I'll try decrease the angle and see if that helps first.
  4. I want to increase retraction of the printer to try to correct issues. What exactly do length and speed do? (Does length mean the distance it calculates before retraction, or the amount of retraction it pulls?) I'm not sure if I should be increasing the numbers or decreasing them. (I'm getting some stringing and occasional thread fingers sticking out.)
  5. Was there supposed to be a reply to this? I don't see one.
  6. The bottom of this is printing rough.. will changing the support angle in cura improve this, or should I manually add some additional supports in the model? The geometry needs to stay the same, and there aren't any other print angles that will give me a seamless result.
  7. You can print a 3d avacado now!
  8. Oh, wow! I hadn't seen that feature! That might come in handy for translucent filament prints where you want to print to pick up lights from inside. I wonder if this feature could be extended into repeatable patterns of some sort?
  9. Yeah, I kind of had a feeling they wouldn't allow you to release it. 8(
  10. That would be cool to print and light! Can't wait to see it available!
  11. I've been using the temperature test model to see at what temps different filaments print best. I *think* the translucent green needs retraction adjustments. I haven't been able to use it again for a while as I'm doing other projects.
  12. The latest stable version of cura is 15.04.4.. you list 15.04.3 I wonder if you have an older buggy cura version installed? I'd uninstall cura, redownload it from the link here, and reinstall it. The first time you open it, before doing anything, save the profile out named default cura install or something like that so you have the install profile to restore if you muck things up. Print ONE small thing thing to see if its printing properly.. a 1x1x1 cm cube or something like that.
  13. I've seen posts that say it depends on the brand of pla.. some brands vapor smooth, and others don't. Odds a a clear coat of gloss rattlecan spray pan will have much the same effect. One is subtractive, smoothing the existing surface, one is additive, adding a gloss layer. chemically, a gloss paint add some micro fill to a surface to achieve the glossy appearance. A dull coat actually adds micro texture to the surface, which is why its not glossy.
  14. Hmmm... the spool that came with my ultimaker 2+ extended at the end of Jan is printing now, but to get it printing well I had to lower the temp to 195, adjust retraction, and speed the print speed up to 140%. Is there a batch number of the filament? I might pop it in the oven JUST in case.
  15. You can increase the brim size, or manually add some stabilization supports in a 3d modeller program like Blender. Also, slowing it down once you get higher helps.
  16. Version 1.0

    1,144 downloads

    I liked the melty face here, so I did a frowny resculpt of it!
  17. I really wish using the extra nozzles had documentation. As it is, I'm hesitant to bother with anything other than .25 and .4 anymore.
  18. I know they were talking the end of Feb as a hopeful new beta release timeframe.. I wonder if its been delayed any further. I'm hoping for some change to how supports are handled with larger nozzles.. I just did a print with the .8mm and supports, and the supports were so thick and hard that even removing them with a dremel was a chore. I like the 8mm can print larger objects faster, but if cleanup it s major pita, I'll stick with the .4mm nozzle.
  19. Version 1.0

    2,116 downloads

    Once I saw the gCreate rocket, I knew I had to print one! It looked like an art statue to me. I've got zbrush skills, and wanted more of a "flame" look to the thrust, so I sculpted the main engine thrust. The rocket print failed the first time, so I grabbed the remix with the supports. I took a look at it in lightwave, and the supports that were added were way too thick on the fins, so I started with the original model, and added thinner supports that would be easier to remove. I wanted to add lights in the windows, and while I had it in lightwave decided for lighted windows I would have to remove the logos. I also needed some way to get inside the rocket, so I sliced the top off it. The main thrust flame came out so nice that I decided to add thrust flames to each of the fin rockets as well. I also modelled a inner support structure to allow the leds to be centered at each of the windows. The whole thing was printed complete hollow in matterhacker pro natural 5 lb, and then rattle can and hand painted.
  20. Since I'm painting 99% of what I'm printing, the print lines don't bother me at all. I just did the gcreate rocket, and it was first sprayed with the rustoleum to reduce the line details, and then oversprayed with copper. Detail colors will then be added, and I might then add weathering as well. As a long time scale modeler, I expect to do paint ops on almost everything.
  21. Rustoleum Bright coat metallic silver has a levelling property to it thats great for smoothing out lines without sanding, but the tradeoff is it also fills in small details. Here's a witcher 3 medallion I didn't sand at all.. I just applied several coat until i got more of a "cast metal" look.
  22. Since layer height changes are based on the side view, I'd think it would be fairly easy to do a box selection and just input height changes for that selection. Change the display color of each layer height difference, and you have a very easy visual display for users, and something relatively easy to code, since they already have the layer view code... they would just need to change the draw color based on height. I've seen that type of editing in 3d modelling applications for ages.
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