Edel

Hallo, das neue t-glase Filament sieht ja sehr gut aus, wenn man möglichst klare Bauteile drucken will. Hat hier schon jemand Erfahung, ob das Werbeversprechen gehalten wird und auch, ob es wirklich wie PLA in der Leichtigkeit zu drucken ist?

Hi, a question, only for me to undestand the printing process. according to this file: http://www.freeform4u.de/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/d/3d-druck_drucker_ultimaker2_plus_vergleich.jpg a 0,4 nozzle can print level high of finest 20 micron, whats in CURA 0.02mm but a 0,25 nozzel, which is nearly have of 0,4 nozzle can only print 60micron as finest, which is 0,06mm in Cura Setting? Why? this nozzel must be able to print detailed...

Tjis new iglass looks amazing!!!! did you try it by our own? i thought frist i take this one, http://innofil3d.com/en/webshop/product/1.htm but here in germany, i did not find any reseller, who can give me samples :(

oh dear 0,2 is not the thinkness i normaly use for my model making... normaly 0,06... And i m more on PLA Site, because this filament i think i can handle best. but would you recomment a special suppler, like innofil or other whats best? for me its important to get i so clear as possible...

this tipp was great, over night it was in the fridge and in the morning it was lose

Hi I search the best clear pla, which does not went to cloudy, or went all filaments when printing from clear to cloudy?

And here perfect layer without glue

Ok back to this problem because I want to learn it But honestly I have the reverse problem now.... All is to tight and I can't lose it Ok back to topic Tommy here are same pictures of the first layer with glue stick

ah ok frigde for 2h hours ok.... but losing adhesion is not so cool, because i had bad warping

It's so tight on the plate.... But what's the reason? Was the nozzle to near at the plate?

Hi, so strange here.... this problem i had never.... but todays print is finished, the glass plate is since hours cold, and the brim + print so so solid on the glass plate, that i cant lose it.... ok i can use a scraper but i dont want to make scratches in the new glass.... any tipp?

ok thank you... but the test with the glue stick was very very bad now.... :( the bottom was now with alot mistakes...

thank you guys for your help. but for me as starter, about which higher temp do we speak now, changing it only 1-2°C up to 62, or do we speak about 10+ higher to 70 or even more? i must get a feeling of this

really? after posting here i made a small test after the normal print with 60 C bed temp, i lower it to 55C and it where a little better.... Ok now i will do a other test, which bed temp would you prefer for PLA shiny bottoms i get every time when i work on the normal glass plate.... i wish i had this finish everywhere

Hi, i have bad warping here with big parts with the normal bed temperature of 60°C... so what is better, r lower bed temp to 50 or raise it to 65°C up? what will warping minimise ... ok i know the glue stick andblue tape, but i want also to find the way with the bed temp...

Zur Frage eins, kann ich dir nur empfehlen ein Extrahalter zu kaufen, der nicht mit der Maschine verbunden ist bei dieser schweren Maße. Zu drei, wenn du nicht mit Chemikalien umgehen möchtest, gibt es eigentlich nur Primat xv3 ja wie das Zeug heißt. Es ist eine Art epixiHarz, was eben diese rillen glattet, Wenn du direkt mit Schleifpapier arbeitest, wirst du merken, dass das Material sehr sehr hart ist und du Stunden dafür benötigst.

Hallo, danke für deine Information ich denke viele neue Anwender werden sich bestimmt darüber freuen und ich kann genauso auch deine beschriebenen Punkte bestätigen. Ich finde es nur traurig in jeglicher Weise, dass es jeden Monat immer und immer wieder Themen gibt über Probleme, hier müssen noch bei einem Hersteller alle möglichen Alarmsirenen hochgehen das endlich mal etwas geändert wird. Aber es scheint leider nicht so. Und ebenso auch, dass man an ein fertiges Produkt so viel selber Hand anlegen muss. Mich wundert auch, dass alle es immer akzeptieren.

Hello, this problem is no kind of warping in my opinion... the layers are to hot and the cooling was not good in this area and had no chance to cool down, because a new hot layer was still printed above...

Hi, ok after the tipp with the springs, not to tight not to loose, i had better results!!! but only in the center .... so i checked my glass plate on my table, and i dont find any crowning or so... so i really dont unterstand, why leveling is on the side bad, when its in center perfect is.

ok but now i did still a update, i didnt know thats so easy the trick with leveling on the 60°C glaseplate was great, now the leveling works the frist time, and all lanes were great..........but then i let the print (UM Robot) nealy 1 hour after print finish on the plate and pull them so easy off.... then i started a 2nd print.......and the leveling was gone.... the nozzle was to near.... please see here the photo you see the bottom side of the UM Robot, where all printlanes are ok, and now you see the start of a other part were the lanes are not together, and all leveling ist away.... :(

I m not sure which information is now the firmware.... on the UM2 i can read: Jul 23.2015 10:31:27 Version 15.04.2 Which spring do you mean, the 3 unter metal plate? no no the are tight... but the case, i wrote, when the bed is still hot, and i want to get the print ot the glass plate and is so tight on the plate, and i pull with more force, then is gone the leveling, correct or? But this i dont do... But which is now the correct nozzel and glassplate 0.10mm, 0,11mm or even less then 0,09mm? i want to order today this

Hi everytime i have really big problems with leveling... my first problems are the different thickness... Normal Copypaper ist 0,10mm Ulitmakercard is 0,12mm other Copypaper 0,12mm Which i correct? So when i do the Bed Leveling procedure with ulitmakercard, and push it back and forth and then i feel a frist small contact of the nozzle on the paper, then i do a little more down that the pushing is stronger between paper and nozzle... But then its still to high, the frist layer is only a single printlane.... if go more down, its sometimes ok.... but if i want do this exactly this way the next time.......no....nothing works like that here and i must do the complete research of leveling again....... The second big problem is after the print.... I understand it very well if i pull a 3d print of the warm glass plate, that the leveling is then gone.... But when i push it 4 or 5 hours later a very loose part of the plate its the same here, the next print has no correct leveling.... I never can do a secound print on a leveled plate.... and i do not understand were the problem is... i hope somebody can help me a little

Hallo, ich wollte euch mal im Rückmeldung geben. Langsam stehe ich kurz vor dem aufgeben, es ist so frustrierend. Der komplette neue Rahmen / Feeder wurde gedruckt, die richtigen Schrauben besorgt, und eingebaut. Das komische Geräusch war dadurch fast weg und nur noch sehr leicht zu hören. Allerdings hat dadurch der Materialfluss nicht mehr gestimmt, weil der Druck von dem Kugellager auf die Antriebsschraube zu gering war. Ich dachte, ich hätte den Druck ordentlich eingestellt, da bei den Testdrucken Material kam und auch alles in Ordnung aussah. Fehlanzeige nun habe ich gravierender Unterextrusion. ---> Lösung war die Schraube weiterhin fester zu drehen und somit den Druck zu erhöhen. Jetzt ist das Knackgeräusch wieder, da Unterextrusion tritt nun erst ab einer Höhe von 1,5 cm auf hierbei bin ich gerade noch am untersuchen, ob das immer in dieser Höhe weiterhin passiert. Drucke ich momentan mit 50 mm /s zu schnell? Ich hatte doch vorher eine ganze Woche lang keine Probleme mit irgendwelcher Art von Unterextrusion. Es ist so frustrierend, ich will doch endlich nur mal meine Bastelsachen machen und nicht dauernd irgendwelche Reparaturteile drucken oder mich um immer neue Lösung vom Problem zu bemühen Welche generellen Lösung gibt es um das Problem Unterextrusion in den Griff zu bekommen? Langsamer drucken? Materialfluss erhöhen? Heißer drucken, dass mehr Material fließt?

End of January they told me

nein das war faberdashery 'pearly white' mit Cura gesliced Hallo kaufst du es im Ausland, hatte grade mal versucht einen deutschen Händler zu finden