kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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I have printed PETG just fine and like it very much. Still experimenting, but it does work. I started with the CPE profile because it had the closest temperature ranges.
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I agree. Very well done on all aspects. I'm actually going to use this as a way to get my electronics and programming skills jump started (never programmed Arduino, only games and that is not the same thing as I have to learn about boards and such) Great education all the way around and I can see ways that this will provide jumping off points.Not only cool, but very well laid out and pedagogic without becoming boring.
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I am using a slurry from recycled PVA to coat my glass plate and have had no trouble with any peel ups or warping. But, I have no idea how the NinjaFlex compares. So many filaments to choose from to test. I haven't even finished testing all my filament types in the two months I have been printing, so I would be very interested to see your results.So far the material is extruding nicely, but not staying stuck to the tape very well - part of the print sticks, but part lifts, even with a brim.I am printing on the UM3+ so I have no idea how that compares to any other printer. It is my first printer, soooooo.....LOL
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I just dissolve most of the support in a container with all the other junk in it (priming tower, or birds next if the priming tower gets toppled) as well as the main model. Depending on the PVA used, it will vary on times. Once most of it has gone by the wayside, I then do a final cleaning/dissolving to get rid of the more difficult parts. Those right against the model, in crevices and such. Depending on the model, there can be a lot of just long supports that melt away, or get globby enough to just gently pull off. It will leave it against parts where there are crevices and such.Great tip, thanks for sharing! :)I have heard it before and seems to work nicely.
Before you start dissolving your PVA, you break of some supports first which you can then use for your slurry? Plus it also helps to dissolve your supports faster (cause there is less) so it is a win-win situation!
Yep, when I put on the glue stick it was not even and it did affect the bottom layer. That was when I started researching alternatives. Learned that the glues that were recommended were a PVA (white glue, Elmer's, etc) so I just started to recycle the PVA. I'm a "Use all the Buffalo" kinda guy. This way I do not need to buy new glues and, once I get my recycler to manufacture my own filaments from the waste, I can just let it dry out and solidify for additional recycling.With the glue stick, how do you mean it was rough? Did it affect your bottom layer? Some people add some glue from a glue stick and then use a warm damp cloth to spread it out over the glass bed. Perhaps this could also be something to explore
I just find this is a money saver in the long run...why buy a PVA product when you have PVA waste? I will soon be trying to do this with the Ultimaker PVA to see how it works. That stuff is expensive, but has cool characteristics (stiffer, clearish and bubbly). I would imagine all PVA's have this change in characteristic from type to type/brand to brand.
I am still in the noobish phase (only printing for about 2 months) and learning day by day. So many cubes, and other tests as well as my own models.
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Would love to use ABS with a soluble material... PLA is quite limiting when 3d printing mechanical parts.
Anyone tried Nylon + PVA?
As for the print we did, came out good, but not great. Unsure if it's the model or not, so will try to print one we already did before to see if there's any posi/nega changes.
I have printed with the Nylon/PVA and it works like a charm with minimal effort on the user end.
I have printed pieces that have hollows that need support as well as 90° overhangs and get good results. That would be using the 'Everywhere' option and not 'touching build plate'
So far I have only used the Ultimaker Nylon but will soon try a third party brand.
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I have seen some posts about seeing an error while autoleveling: "Difference detected too great..."
Here is what I noticed, if there is any oozing of material that is uneven, it will cause a misread because of the sensitivity of the detection system. I started making sure the nozzles are not oozing and clear from any leftover ooze from a previous print and it has cleared up the issue.
I found this by way of having the error, then clearing the nozzles and re-did the autolevel and it all came out fine.
Hope this helps as I keep finding goofy things from the noobverse.....
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I've been printing for a short time and having to do a lot of research and the glue was a subject that has a lot of solutions.
My goofy tip is to recycle the PVA that you can into PVA slurry by just sticking all the bits into water, brush it on while you heat the bed, and it will make a nice, thin sheet of glue without the rough patches. Well, at least when I tried to get the glue stick down it always was rough. I don't even use the glue stick anymore and, well, you paid enough for the filament, put it towards savings
Right now I have not tried this with the Ultimaker PVA (Thought of it as I ran out of the PVA that came with the printer), but the Matterhackers PVA makes a very nice slurry. It is a different chemical composition.
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I have been experimenting a lot and still trying to dial in that sweet spot on all of this, but I am happy in my noobish attempts so far
Thank you for the kind words.
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I think it is a good move. There are too many patent trolls and too many who think hard work (long hours, years of development and innovation) should be free.
Being defensive does not block anybody in and does protect the hard work of the individuals who make things we like to play and work with. I have seen way too many resources that have been offered for free only to be put up for sale elsewhere.
Time will tell how it is handled, but I can say I do approve and appreciate the need for it. A little too much jumping up and down about a positive move methinks in a few responses here.
And, there is way too much theft in the industry across the board. I was contacted by CGTrader to sell models. When I mentioned one of their models was found on another site for free, I heard nothing back from them. And, I have archived the emails in case someone wants to dispute this.
Basically they are either selling free work, or someone bought it and set if free in the wild. What was disturbing was that once this was pointed out, I never heard from them again.
We used to get paid for our work but somewhere, too many people decided everything was for free if it was on the internet. A lot of potential to make money, but a lot of risk too.
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Here are pics. The spider is not my model. Everything else is. This is where to find the spider...cool spider....
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1751722
EDIT!!!: The heart is not my model. It came from embodi.com and this is the link to it. Sheeesh...I should know better, eh?
https://www.embodi3d.com/files/file/35-3d-printable-human-heart/
As an aside, I am recycling one of my test dinos for a diorama and is labeled as PLA.
Pics: In order of squishiness-Natural is NinjaFlex, black is Ninja SemiFlex and Red is Cheetah.
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Just a quickie, I am using a lot of the Matterqackers PVA and still adjusting the temps to get that sweet spot of good temp without making little burn marks every now and then.
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Here is a link to the profiles I started with. I don't have pics yet, but I wanted to get this out as soon as I got home and a bit settled. Pics will come later.
http://www.kmanstudios.com/NinjaProfiles.zip
Edit: It has a model(s) I made to test fidelity. Feel free to disperse this crappy model(s) as you like. They are soooo radical in design LOL
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I will be providing my print profiles for NinjaFlex and Ninja SemiFlex as soon as I get back.
Oh, and keep in mind I have not been printing for long and still quite noobish. So, what is successful on my untrained eyes may not be for you guys.
Sometimes I feel like the youngun running into the kitchen to let Mom and Dad know I made a boom boom all by myself. LOL
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Ack!! I did not expect a reply so soon...I did add an edit about cheetah...Edit copied below so nobody has to search for it:
Edit: I can say that Cheetah prints with the standard ABS settings with only an adjustment on the temps to recommended values.
https://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/cheetah/
From printing guidelines: "Extruder Temperature: 230°C – 240°C"
As an Aside, and non-flexible: Armadillo is amazing! Prints well....doing my first scanned body part to test. From Artec samples.
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I've been printing with ninjaflex, Semi-Flex and cheetah with no problems. I'll try to get some pics if you're interested.
More than pictures, maybe you could share the speed, settings etc. That might help more people:)
Ohhh...youse guys want everything LOL
I have to go meet a client soon. When I get back, I will try to get pics and the profiles together with it.
Be aware that I am printing in 'primitive' conditions. Basement apartment in Brooklyn and it can get cold at times. I was thinking about this and I wonder if it being cooler in my room than suggested (generally about 65°F or around there) has something to do with the filament not giving me trouble.
I will have something as soon as I can get it together when I get back.
I have been able to make what I call soft locks (Ball and socket with flexible materials) that can be put together and taken apart without breaking as well as my test dino that I made for a variety of reasons.
Edit: I can say that Cheetah prints with the standard ABS settings with only an adjustment on the temps to recommended values.
https://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/cheetah/
From printing guidelines: "Extruder Temperature: 230°C – 240°C"
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I've been printing with ninjaflex, Semi-Flex and cheetah with no problems. I'll try to get some pics if you're interested.
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Thank you very much for such a detailed tutorial! Really good stuff!
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The print was 18.6 Hr by estimation and I could swear it shaved an hour off...or the daylight savings change messed me up. Gonna be cold and tired for a few days until the blizzard is done and I adjust to the time change...grooooaaaaannnnnn.......
I have not tried without the prime tower. The stringies are from where it was building the overhangs. And amazingly, few if any. Most of the 'rougher surface' was on the most bottom part of the fractal. A snip and sanding a bit did the job for me.
The thing I am most amazed at is that it has gazillions of overhangs and still came out this clean. The 'petals' of the fractal are smooth as can be. I'll probably try without the prime tower and use the ooze shield.
I will be remaking/revising it to make an LED Lamp some time in the future. When I am not experimenting with materials and such. Had it for two months and all I've done is print a bunch of cubes, some old files and interlocking ball and socket test pieces.
Been also painting and testing finishes. For instance, I have decided I am not a fan of ABS for a variety of reasons. For my goals, just too brittle. But I do love the PLA and nylons. NinjaTek's products (Semi-flex, flex, cheetah) are giving me no issues other than finding the sweet spot in temps.
Gonna be trying armadillo soon to see how it compares to ABS in strength and hopefully not as brittle.
This machine is the perfect learning tool. Compensates enough for this clumsy noob and STILL allows for playing around.
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I am finding that the 'use towers' and 'conical support' to be helpful in limiting the amount of support needed. I have gone as low as 8% support amount with 10mm as the maximum width and 2mm the minimum width. It will tower out nicely to still make the 'cradle' that the print rests upon.
Edit: I have also found it can compensate for 'Touching build plate only' rahter than always using 'everywhere'.
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2.4 is better at the printer stopping with the priming tower with last color change. Actually, 2.4 is much better period.
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My first 2 Color Print with massive overhangs and no supports. A bit of cleanup required to remover a bit of underside strings, but really impressed.
Settings in Cura 2.4
Basic Draft for PLA (Both Colors)
2 walls
Hollowed out
Make overhangs printable (65°) (found by doing overhang tests prints. 65° is where I found I get a decent bottom and top.
Coasting enabled (Default settings)
0.1 expansion on both colors to make them overlap a bit and bond better.
Tape dispenser for scale
In me tiny hands
Some Teacandle tests each 'lamp' printed with no support (single color only) Just throwing them in to save multiple posts
Still greatly in the newbie phase, but the machine is very robust and compensates a lot for this clumsy noob.
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Bump...Seriously? Nobody has a clue or will answer?
Hi Eric,
one reason is probably that there's not such a thing like "UM3-Extended - Error 12C".
I assume, that you have to be a bit more precise, if you want useful hints from the community...
Where have you bought your printer? Your reseller should be able to forward you to a trained person who can sort this out (together with you).
Yeah, well, if they want a better error report, they should get off a dotmatrix style readout. Seriously lower case i and 1 look almost the same. I've said it before and will say it again, for such a high end machine, to be using basic FAT32 and dotmatrix readout twirly thing, blah, blah, blah is really strange.
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And to further update this:
It was an i2C error... not a 12C error. Some of these fonts look alike on that dinky screen.
Got in touch with fbrc8 support and they got me working well again...so far.
Here is the page they linked me too. I only had to do steps 4 & 5. The connector had worked loose a bit. That doesn't bother me as I am old enough to remember when you actually picked up your computer about and inch and dropped it to help reseat the chips.....yes, that was a thing in those days.
So far, it has not errored out as before.
If you get the error, check this link:
https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000062743-Disconnecting-the-Printhead-UM3-UM3X-
and make sure to check with support to avoid voiding the warranty.
So, it was the connectors so far. Will update only if information is warranted for the community.
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This is an update. I called Matterhackers and they clarified a few things.
1. The machine does not load into RAM and then execute. It is constantly using the USB to print from (constant communication).
2. Though this may be old news to the experienced, but I have never used a computer based piece of equipment that required constant communication like this. All previous computer equipment ran on RAM until it had to resort to read/write operations. Well, not on anything 'modern.'
3. This will burn out USB devices. They are great transfer devices, but not constant work drives.
4. Can only read FAT32? Seriously?
This is a great disappointment in many ways as I did not and will not run from my computer or wifi.
So, switched the USB and will see if it is the drive or the USB itself. Will post as I find more information.
Possible profile for 0.040 and 0.020 ?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
I have managed to tweak out a 0.04mm (40 microns) but cannot get a 0.02mm (20 microns) to come out right. I get all sorts of colored boxes. I will return to that once I finish playing with basic filaments and such to start to fine tune to that level when needed.
BTW...I really did not see much difference (for my purposes so far) in the detail level. But I know it will come and will be trying to set that up.