kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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That's the only thing killing the gMax as well for me. I have limited space (Yay small Brooklyn apartments....I actually sleep in the same room as the printer.) and the moving build plate is a problem, especially if you get more than one.
Ultimaker has a very nice ecosystem. I am hoping they have something on the burner for this. That, or buy one and then adapt it and that would be a real pain........
The good thing about sleeping in the room with the printer, is that I am learning the sounds like a new parent....and being a grandfather, well, I know what that is like! LOL
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I like the ecosystem that Ultimaker has, but I am seeing the need for large print volumes when making certain types of prosthetics such as a thigh sized socket. The size I quoted would be just big enough to accomplish that. The only other one that comes close in this type of model is the Raise 3D N2+.
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It has more to do with the motion of the head and the paths it takes to make the triangles rather than the triangles themselves. It'd have to be am MP4 or something like that.I think you need to post a pic for that
If you go to the 5:30 time on this link, you can see it. But, they have two ships making the pattern and not just the one print head.
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Just lets you know how doofy I am....I was lumping firmware into the hardware and seeing Cura as the only software...LOL
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Thank you for your reply. I started a shorter print (smaller) just to see. Since it does not stop at the same place (different level of slice and different location on model), I ruled out the g-code. I will do a rollback as soon as this print is finished and start a new one and let you know.
And, thank you for putting a version number on this
Makes it easier to archive versions and know which I am working on without having to open up the file. 
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And here are the log dumps for this thing. I did a stress test and it did the same thing once, but passed the stress test several times after a reboot. I am resetting it back to factory settings in the hope this is cleared up.
.....and the factory reset did not roll back the firmware. This did not start until I updated.
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Ok. It happened again. It just stops. The menu works, but will not activate any functions. There is no error message. Sounds just stop and the lights go dark. This is starting to be a serious problem. Three times at about 10 - 16 hours of printing.
And the menu just sits there. Can go to different areas, but nothing activates or functions when chosen.
Edit...had wrong picture....it's 3:30 in the morning and I am not happy about this.....
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This is the third time this has happened. It just stops for some reason or another. I cannot even get the frame brightness to change, i.e. the printer just stops, I try to brighten the lights and nothing is happening.
Did not happen before I updated firmware and I've chewed a lot of material when this happens, like getting 13 hours into a 26 hour print.
Any idea why this could happen? Or, has it happened to anybody else?
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There be a grand idea. Had not even crossed my mindI use those left over ends to do atomic pulls at regular intervals.
If you would still have more left over, what about heating them with a heat gun and making toys with it for the kids? Arm bands, rings,...
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It looks like the machine is drawing a Tholian web?
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Have you adjusted the feeder tension screw?
Here is a link to what I am referring to. I found that if I just tighten the feeder screw, it works as I am using a variety of manufacturers and they are not all equal and in some cases, different makes of the same materials (PVA, PLA, etc) will have differences in texture, slickness, etc.....
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/36111-material-is-ground-down-by-the-feeder
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I found that when I had this error (after making sure the nozzles are clean and such), it required me to reset the manual leveling as the bed can be knocked out of alignment if you are not careful when removing a print. I found it better to just remove the build plate when removing a print.
That made me get a couple of extra build plates so I can just cycle through them and check the active leveling after each build plate change and before starting new print.
I always figure I am knocking something out of alignment. And, that has proven to be the case most times if I am too 'rough' when removing a print of build plate.
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A few years to recoup costs would not be so bad. I just hate waste with a passion. Did not know that about PLA though. That is disappointing. But you also have the ability to make your own special blends though. That would be fun to experiment with.Just search the recyclability of the filaments you're using. If a can't be then just put it in the normal rubbish.
Making you own filament is not the most efficient. If you way up the cost of buying an extruder, running costs etc. you would need to make heaps of rolls which may take a few years to make up for it and by then who knows where the technology will lead.
Also, you can't re-extrude PLA. It degrades too much so you end up throwing away those scraps anyway.
But I do hate putting all this plastic, in the long run, into a landfill or something else. I know PLA will degrade, but still, so much waste....The horror....the horror.....
Thanks for the input.
What about other filament types and their recyclability? Any sort of guide out there?
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With the distance between the feeder and the nozzle, at the end of a spool, that would leave about 2 feet of filament waste.
So, what do you do with the 'lost' filament in this case.
I do some recycling back into 'cleaner filament' but that still leaves a lot of filament to be recycled or used somehow. PVA, I recycle no matter what, into slurry, so no issues there.
Eventually, I want to recycle my filaments into new filament (By way of a good/pro level struder). But until the time I can afford such a beast, what do you good folk do with your waste?
Thanks for the feedback/ideas
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Just a question about any plans to make a truly large format printer such as along the lines of a build area about (X) 16 inches x (Y) 16 inches by (Z) 24 inches? For future use I am looking at something that will require a large build area for parts that require printing in one large area for structural integrity.
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ooohhhhhh....OK. Then I need to find information to distinguish the two. Duhhhhh...ThanksI thought the problem with printing with Polycarbonites was with the nozzles. It would chew up a brass nozzle.
Nope. You're thinking of Carbon Fiber, I think. PC totally fine with a brass nozzle. And the latest firmware gives you the option to select PC as a material choice.
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I thought the problem with printing with Polycarbonites was with the nozzles. It would chew up a brass nozzle.
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I am really loving my PETG materials. But I am a bit lost on whether it is mostly translucent or if there are solid colors. I am really liking the translucents. But it seems that most of what look for has a very limited translucent selection. But I have also read that PETG is mostly translucent anyway.
So, brand and more information as this can be expensive hopping around just to see what is what.
PS. T-Glase is printing like a dream on my UM3+. Due to nozzle size I do not get the 'clear look...yet....but it is strong and silky/satiny looking and light passes through.
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While most of my errors have come from doing the same, I have encountered it when I have had to stop a failed print and tried to just go back in and use the same file.I came here wanting to say after the firmware update,If I unplug the USB drive to load new files on it and then plug the drive back into the UM3 it will display nothing but "Return" I have to turn off and back on the UM3 again to get it to see the thumb drive again. Ive tried 3 thumb drives so far,All have the same problem.
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I can get that, but were you mesmerized? I know I still am. Part of it also seeing the programming that underlies everything. The way the software 'solves' everything amazes me. I can program, but not at this level. There is real ingenuity in the solutions I am seeing.Watching these things print reminds me of watching mp3s download during the dial up days!
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Thanks! That makes everything perfectly clear.
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Just to add one more thing about Autodesk: Their 'free software' always seems to get cancelled and then rolled into a paid product.
It would seem that Autodesk is using that free software as an open beta program to either test features or a way to check for future monetization byway of popularity and feedback from users.
Since Autodesk and Adobe have not really been innovating for a long time, they are having to switch to the subscription model to make any money.
To paraphrase the CFO of Autodesk at a shareholder meeting a few years back, "We are not selling upgrades or product for several versions as a time and need to look at new ways to monetize the product line."
When there are cheaper and powerful alternatives that actually focus on what the creative people need, and not just moving menus around and throwing what we would call a 'point release' out every year back in the day and not an upgrade and then charging so much for it. I remember when the yearly upgrades were just $400.00 USD.
Yes, I feel like Autodesk is the significant other that has strayed and it feels a bit like a betrayal.
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OK, I get the manual leveling as a way to set a distance, equally on the main 3 points.
But, here is where I am not sure of the purpose of Active Leveling:
Since it went to 3 different points from manual leveling, I am assuming (and we know how dangerous that can be) that the active leveling is not setting distance but checking alignment from one nozzle to the other by way of using the 'touch build-plate glass' to check the comparative distance between nozzles.
So, right? Wrong? Go get more coffee and clear those cobwebs manually?
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I take no umbrage as what you offered was good advice. Especially since I bill myself, here on this site, as the Clumsy Noob from the Nooberse. But sound advice it was
I did think of another thing that is giving the look you mentioned. It was a fractal based shape and it does not perfectly align at junctures with some parts going a bit behind or in front of each other.
But, I was so busy playing I did not think about getting a light source inside. I will have to drill out a hole to insert the light...LOL...duuuhhhhhhh
But, it is quite the testament to how solid Cura can be.
Large Format printer larger than current models
in Coffee corner
Posted · Edited by Guest
Nopers....I didn't get my hands on one until mid January and up to that time I was in research/study land. That and digging out models I had made over the years to use in testing.
Brooklyn can be nice. But I am a country boy at heart and all this city is stifling. My apartment is in the basement and it does help, but is not well insulated and can vary with the humidity and temp.
I am jealous LOL
But, even with the hiccups, I am really impressed with the machine. If you knew how hard I can be on machinery when I am learning it, well, you would know that it is a robust machine and I can trace most of my difficulties in the 'user error' area.