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  1. Re you going to manufacture and sell this? If so then I am interested.
  2. Count me as one of the one percenters. I think there are a whole bunch of us not complaining which is contributing to the illusion that very few are having issues. I think that since we paid a premium for our printer we trust that Ultimaker will make things right. I am starting to think that trust may be misplaced. Rethinking my purchase.
  3. While the above post is slightly OT, I do agree that the rollover seems unnecessary. If the list was really long I can see the benefit but all of the menus are short and to be able to spin the wheel clockwise very quickly to return reliably to the previous menu would speed up navigation for me.
  4. To me it seems that bed leveling has set the bed too close to the nozzle which prevents extrusion - at least that is how it appears in my case.
  5. The latest firmware seems to work differently with the Bondtech QR feeders on my 3E (with required value changes applied to firmware). Anyone else seeing this? I asked Bondtech to take a look.
  6. Bump! Nobody answered JohnInOttawa's question so I thought I'd give it a bump because I have the same question: I also presume, since cura can't handle 0.6 AA yet, the gcode to program an AA hardcore to 0.6 would just screw stuff up Is that correct? Maybe it will be a moot point when Cura supports the CC hot end? Also, I just installed Bondtech QR extruders and printed ColorFabb XT-CF20 with a .6 mm ruby nozzle with line width set to .15 mm, The results are good but I think I am seeing just a bit of over-extrusion. Anyone else seeing
  7. I purchased a spare feeder for exactly this reason. As long as there isn't something I am missing then I guess I can live with it the way it works (as long as I remember to override the error instead of blankly staring at the printer wondering why it isn't printing...)
  8. I have a UM3E and a Solex Hardcore 0.4 steel nozzle printing XT-CF20 using a recipe I found somewhere in this forum. It prints beautifully! However when I send a print to the printer it complains that the material is not compatible with the Hardcore and every time I have to manually override the error to get it to print. The print core is set to AA 0.4 and the profile is custom for the XT-CF20. The material on the printer is set to nylon. I must have set something wrong?
  9. Yes and no. The firmware version that just download is 4.2.5. Is that the same as 4.2 as described in the News?
  10. Pardon my ignorance but multiple times I have started my UM3E printer to see a "there is new firmware" message. As I am apt to do I usually install it but I am always curious as to what has changed or been added but when I come to this forum I typically cannot find anything resembling "release notes" except when it is a major release. Perhaps I am missing something obvious and hopefully you can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.
  11. Cold you make a picture of that? is it sanded or what is it like? If it was sanded - wouldn't this result in an feature like a buildtak mounted? Here is a picture. It shows a close up with a nickel on the glass to help you understand the scale. The surface is smooth-textured as you can see. I don't know anything about buildtak.
  12. I tried to lessen the heat gradient on the build glass by putting a sheet of .008" copper under the glass but as I feared it is simply too thin to make any difference. The gradient is still 7+ degrees C center of plate to 1 inch from edge. Is there a spec for this for the printer? Might I just have an out-of-spec heating element?
  13. I don't know about bad batches or whatever. I know I posted some pictures here that clearly showed serious inconsistencies in the first layer thickness that no one suggested that I might have bad glass. I assumed what I was seeing was normal. I then purchased some borosilicate glass having heard that is was better. No, it was the same or maybe a little worse. I can say with certainty that the Neoceram is really flat -- not perfect of course but flat enough that auto-leveling actually works. I wonder about warpage that might be caused by the clips pulling the glass onto the non-flat aluminum pl
  14. I doubt this has anything to do with convection cooling. I took the plate off and stood it on edge for a series of pictures. The gradient was still quite visible in the pictures. I believe the heating element is not of great quality. 5 to 7 degrees of difference over just a few inches is really a lot. I have considered trying thin copper foil under the glass to see if it makes any difference. Copper has 2X the thermal conductivity of aluminum (or aluminium for some of you). Thin copper may not make a significant difference but it is cheap and easy to try. Now if I just had a diamond plate... I
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