RudydG
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3D Prints
Posts posted by RudydG
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They work very nice out of the box. Only thing you have to "learn" is to chose the right profile. Even changing betweens cores (nozzles) is easy, the machine does reliable bed levelling, and also the first layer is no problem.
The Um are the only printers where i fully rely on, i dont watch the first layer anymore...
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Like GR5 says, pva does not need much more then 10hrs exposure to the environement to become "bad"
I only unwind the needed length from the spool, the rest of my pva goes directly back in a sealed bag with silica gel. For really big jobs, i use a drybox. But it you leave pva to long in the drybox (under 20% RH), the pva becomes to dry, and starts to be brittle.
So, if you don't use the pva, put it in a sealed bag with its initial silicagel. Best practice 😉
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Sorry, I have no material station, don’t know how it would work? Maybe wind the length you need on an empty spool and load that in the material station?
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Welke printer? X-Y gecalibreert?
Is je Pva droog? Werken let pva vereist grote zorg dragen rond de vochtigheid.
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I only unwind the length pva needed for the print. The rest goes back in the silica gel protected bag. Cost me some extra length, but i can use almost the whole roll. And the S5 stops when it detects end of the piece i cut.
Btw, i use Polymaker PVA S1, never any problems since i use this method with this material.
And, breaking pva is to dry, to flexible pva is probably to wet...
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On 8/10/2020 at 3:29 PM, gr5 said:
So the information above has changed. There is now a way to do a firmware recovery yourself. Initially it was deemed too dangerous (deadly voltages under the printer) but now the consumer can do it himself if they follow specific instructions. Contact your reseller. I got the same error as above but firmware recovery did not fix it.
"U-Boot" is similar to "BIOS" (e.g. "AMIBIOS"). The UM3, S3, S5 have a tiny cell-phone-like linux computer in them (dual core!) that when powered off starts with the U-Boot which then immediately boots from the Flash memory (Flash memory is the same as a solid state hard drive). Anyway the U-Boot searches the partitions in flash for one with a boot file. But in your case the boot partition is corrupted because it couldn't find it.
On my computer the partition was so badly corrupted it needed reformatting and even a "firmware recovery" couldn't handle it. In fact all 3 partitions on my S5 were corrupted. One day the printer was printing fine, the next day, I had this.
Anyway, if you get this error showing U-Boot, then you probably need a new linux board from your reseller.
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PVA is very sensitive, like even 24hrs exposure to humidity can give big problems.
In the early years i wasn't aware of this, and it made me having lots of troubles which i never could identify.
Since i changed my behavior with these kind of filaments, i no longer have any problems.
You can use a drybox, but, and this is my current way of working, you can also only cut the needed length of the roll PVA, and put the rest back in the original sealed bag with its dessicant.
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22 minutes ago, SandervG said:
It is a really, really great printer. So are the S-line printers, but the simplicity and effectiveness of the Ultimaker 2+ (Connect) are difficult to beat. Will you be considering trying out the Ultimaker 2+ Connect?
Yes, i probably wil try one out. The simplicity is everything! Also the printquality with the lightweight head.
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Great printer made better again! For me this is still the best Ultimaker in the pack.
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I use this a lot! perfect product for my mechanical parts. Although heath resistance is not high. I would say, dont go above 50 degrees celsius.
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Mine is in this state from the beginning. No reliable wifi connection. Don't know where the problem is. I guess my network. But there are no diagnostics utilities. So very hard to resolve.
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I love my S5, but the printer is not as precise (tolerances / elephant foot), as my UM3 and UM2+
I can't speak of the S3, but my feeling is that the weight of the head and the moving axes are the most important factors in this behavior.
For me, the only thing missing on the UM3, is the filament detection. (and the levers of the feeder for easy loading of the filament)
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On 8/17/2020 at 5:11 AM, dycus said:
I've set up my lights so they're on during printing and off otherwise, which is what I prefer. However, when I'm doing things like changing the build plate or applying glue, I'd like to be able to quickly switch the lights on so I can see what I'm doing. Currently I have to go into the settings and turn off the "only on during printing" option.
It would be nice to have a button in the corner on the home screen to just turn the lights on or off, preferably available during prints as well! I'm not sure what the behavior should be when the printer performs an action that would change the lights, like starting a print. Perhaps the button could cycle through three options - on, off, and "as configured in settings".
Ultimaker and lights....
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I was in exact the same situation, Building 3d printers, and found my "heaven" in S3D. I hated Cura, because there where so many things missing. But now, in the current status, (UM2, UM3, UM S5), with the current Cura, it works so good!!! For professional use, there is almost no tinkering, just plug and play. Yes S3D is surely better in some ways, but the package Cura + Ultimaker works almost flawlessly.
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On 8/3/2020 at 9:36 AM, nallath said:
I've just tried this, but it seems to show up fine for me. Could you report this on github and fill in the entire bug report template (https://github.com/ultimaker/cura/issues/new/choose)?
Thanks!
I did a fresh install, and now the material shows up. Solved.
😉
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I installed it thru the marketplace (just like the iglidur 150, and a lot of other materials, which all work perfect), but it does not show up in cura materials selection. It is UM3 and UM5 compatible, both printers i use.
Anyone a clue?
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13 hours ago, Crono986 said:
Did you check the pulleys? I once had a pulley that was coming lose. (check on the motors and the connecting pulleys)
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13 hours ago, Crono986 said:
Your X and Y faces are so much cleaner than mine!
Yes, quite remarkable!
The most critical things are speed, (jerk and acceleration)
Maybe one off the belt tensioning?
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Just now, Crono986 said:
Yes 100% the filament is dry. It was brand new prior to printing.
I have put hundreds of prints through this printer with tons of different filaments. It is not a filament issue.
Let's see what the Polymax result will be.
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1 hour ago, Crono986 said:
Here are the three prints with three STL levels:
Left is SW default coarse, middle is SW default fine, right is super fine (what I typically print)
The problem persists.
ToughPLA black tonight.Are you sure your filament is dry? do you still have your 2+?
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Here you are:
UM3
AA 0.4
Latest cura, default setting 0.15
Polymaker tough pla black
The damage to the brim is a result of a too high adhesive from the first layer (normally i do a Z 0.1 offset)
Greetings,
Rudy
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8 hours ago, nallath said:
I hardly ever change the settings. I tend to just stick to the default profiles that Cura has.
Same here, only the Brim removed, and Z offset of 0.1, and for mechanical parts horizontal -0.1
Can't skip cooldown after print finishes?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
I put on some gloves, and take the hot plate out right away, and put the new glass in, speeds up the cooling down time 😉