RudydG
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Posts
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3D Prints
Posts posted by RudydG
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Strange, my tough pla parts with 3Dlac are lose on the plate after cooling down. On the 3 and the 5 same behaviour. Mostly i use the default settings with the new beta version. What can be different?
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I Hope you are right. And i have to adopt my workflow, start the machine, and check the led function, and only then start the print.
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Nice idea, just one remark, does the filament touch the power plug? Maybe a situation you would want to avoid. The rubbing of filament can be quit agressive.
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After 12hours in a 6 days print, i want to dim the frame lights. Doesn't work. slider moves, but lights stay on 100%. Come on guys, this becomes rediculous.
My whole room is lit up by this printer. For a whole week?
It is my main frustrationswith this machine, from the start, but until now i was able to dim to "almost" 0.
The machine is on the latest firmware, and resetting at this point is not an option.
What can be the reason?
Do i really have to put a switch on my leds? Anyone has an electrical diagram? warranty when i "mod" this machine?
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will try this! Thanks
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2 hours ago, geert_2 said:
Do you put that cut-off piece in a drybox too while printing? Or if left hanging in the open air, doesn't it cause problems in long prints (like more than a day)?
Even the short pieces i put in my drybox. Unless it is very dry in the room (like 30%rh or less), then i just let it hang out.
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PVA is a real ... when it comes to humidity.
What i do, i measure the length needed, add some an cut that off the big roll PVA. Then i immediatly reseal the rest of the roll. With the S5 you have the advantage that it detects the end of rol.
The drybox is ok, but the bag is better.
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44 minutes ago, Ace1992 said:
Hey Guys,
I have been wanting to put dual extrusion on my Ultimaker 2 for awhile now, and have always been curious about just putting an Ultimaker 3 print head on it. I am still pretty new to the forum and want to learn more about these printers and coding behind them.
Could you tell me how hard it was to put the Ultimaker 3 print head on the Ultimaker Go Clone?
I am not very good at changing the Code for these machines, and I was wondering the modifications you made to the Tinker Software, if any.
You said that the Ultimaker 3 print head has a smaller Y-Axis bearing where can I get the 3D cad files to make the modification if I desire to? I know now that the Ultimaker 3 print head can just be purchased now, so I might just go down that path.
Sorry for all the newbie questions, but thank you in advance for your reply.
Thanks,
Andy
Hey Andy,
It is not easy, if you want to do it the ultimaker way (so no tinkering with code), you probably have to buy the UM3 electronics also, which will not be cost effective. (=expensive)
I went the duet way, and got everything working. But it was a lot of programming and in the end, it is no UM3....
Would i do it again? No. To much effort. Better sell the UM2, and buy a UM3 (maybe second hand)
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Look https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52601-update-the-firmware here, says if not finished after 10minutes, start again
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Power supply was the culprit, new one, and everything is working again!
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24 minutes ago, ultiarjan said:
You can already use a CORE with a duet board with no problem at all, if you forget about the chip containing the number for identification of the CORE, it's just a PT100 + Heater, which you can use like any other PT100 + heater on the Duet (+pt100 expansion board ofc)
Yep, i did this, soldered 4 wires with a plug, to connect it with my Duet Wifi in an old Leapfrog, even copied the ultimaker 3 head to this printer, so the headchange procedure is the same.
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When i start a dual head job (so with 2 cores), my printer keeps resetting itself.
First it heats its platform, then it starts heating core1, and after about 2 seconds it totaly resets itself, display and all the heaters out, and then a message on the screen that the print went wrong....
First i thought that it was software related, but it also happens when i do the X-Y offset calibration.
What steps i already did:
-Replaced the 2 cores.
-Factory reset and calibrated the Z
-Took the printer apart to check if there was somewhere a cable or connection problem (and cleaned everything 😉
-replaced Usb stick
-print with only core 1 > ok
What else could i possibly do?
Is there a hard reset possible? Should i bring my printer to the dealer?
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En nu maar printen!! veel succes ermee!
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Hoi, ik zou eerst de firmware updaten, en dan nog eens proberen. Ik heb dit in het begin ook gehad, een keertje maar, was toen en blobje op de glasplaat.
Eens je dit opgelost krijgt, ga je van deze feature genieten, altijd een goede eerste layer is een zegen, zeker met moeilijke filamenten. Succes ermee.
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My setup of the S5, i found a very nice cabinet with wheels, Ikea https://www.ikea.com/be/nl/producten/opbergmeubelen/ladeblokken-bureauopbergers/bekant-opbergmeubel-op-wielen-draadwerk-wit-spr-09282547/
Suits me very well, easy acces because you can turn the cabinet to acces the back of the printer, and the right height (deskheight is to low, this is 1mtr, ideal!!)
At the backside, i have the "normal" spool attachement, and also a drybox for the moisture sensitive filament.
At this moment i am using the last of a roll breakaway, and a roll of Polymax Pla (=tough pla)
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Just tested same Polymaker PC without breakaway support, now the print is rocksolid, impossible to break.
Does anyone print PC with support? My guess is that the needed fans for printing support, ruins the PC?
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Thanks for your post, very informational.
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After using the S5 now for a couple of weeks i find it a very easy and reliable machine, and the cura integration is very nice also, you get on the screen a message to change the filament before a new task etc...
Only minors i encoutered:
-When changing the printspeed on the printer (150% in my case), i got a problem when running out og filamnt. Seems that the load / unload speed of the printer is affected by this setting, and in my case it stalled. At first i didn't know what it was, but after a while i figured it out.
-The probing of the bed is always on the same spots, so when you print a small thing, which is easy removed in the printer, be sure to clean all the probing points!! or the next print will fail.
And ofcourse, no aluplate, real bummer!!!
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Really??
The aluplate was one of my reasons to buy this expensive machine. And ofcourse, i bought a second plate at the moment i bought the S5.
So at least, give us an option to spend a the money on something else. (my guess is the S5 user already has a spare glass plate)
This does not make me happy!
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Sander, some remarks.
Regarding the content:
- Don't think i learned something new, it was all very general, i felt it was a S5 sales talk. But i am around here a lot, so maybe i am not the right audience.
-Hoped for some tips, but all was very general, ofcourse it was only 30 minutes, i was designing a part while following the conversations.
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Just one remark, make it safe!!you don't want these things to fail, risks are high. Get at least on the heater circuit a safety thermostat, if this aliexpress thing fails, and you are not around (prints can take a long time), you don't want the thing to overheat.
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i would turn the fan on, and switch the heater with a thermostat.
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100W 12 is at least 8amp power supply.
Once you close the printer, the problem will not be to cold, but to warm i think.
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aliexpress page doesn't exist?
Tough PLA bed adhesion
in Materials & profiles
Posted
Well, i don't even have to do a thing, all my pieces are virtualy lose on the plate. And i also have elephant foot, so i suppose my first layer is squished enough. Things change when i use breakaway or pva, the the parts stocks more, mostly thrue the second material.
What i do is use 2 glass plates, to let the part cool down naturaly until it pops.