RudydG
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Posts
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3D Prints
Posts posted by RudydG
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13 minutes ago, Crono986 said:
Rudy, my mistake. I thought "PolyMax" was Tough PLA.
I'm having trouble finding it in 2.85mm
Do you have a direct purchase link?
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10 minutes ago, Crono986 said:
About to pull the trigger on this:
Let me know.
Sorry, i don't use PETG, this is not the same as Tough-pla Polymax
This i have "in stock"
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7 minutes ago, Crono986 said:
RudyG,
Please link me the filament to purchase, and go ahead and send me your GCode.
I will load your GCode and filament and do the print.That way, there is without question a hardware problem.
I use this 90% of the time:
https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polymax-pla/ mostly white and light grey, also blue, yellow and black
For the object, we can use the testblock u pictured in you post.
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If you ask me regarding the printquality, my UM2+ is my best, then the UM3, followed by the S5.
But the prints you show here are not ok, and the difference between PQ for all these machines are minor.
Maybe we can do a test with the same settings and filament, and exchange pictures from the results, so you can judge?
I have mostly tough pla from Polymaker, and for budget i use makerfill.
Send me the file + settings (i advice standard 0.15 default)
Greetings
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After doing all this stuff, and still so bad prints, i would seriously doubt the filament. Did you change that? Would be my first thing to do.
I you situation i would:
1 change filament
2 change settings to a default fine setting
3 change printcore.
4 change extruder (you can set the default to printcore2, and thereby you can elimate the feeder / bowden)
4 all the rest you already did.
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Maar het ziet er zo slordig uit; een +6k machine waar niet fatsoenlijk uur en minuten op staat. Komt de baas langs om naar de nieuwe machine te kijken, zegt ie, nou, dat is toch snel Rudy, moet je daar een verhaaltje gaan afsteken dat de printer die jij als beste naar voor geschoven hebt, een bugje heeft.
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Versuche mal mit Klarwasser, nichts dazu. Ich habe viele glasplatte kaput gemacht mit glasreiniger (Instant) zui gebrauchen.
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In meinen besten Deutsch 😉
1: nur mit Klarwasser reinigen
2: nie ohne "Schicht" drucken (ich nutze 3D-lac)
3: erste schicht vielleicht etwas hoher printen (plugin Z-ofset, werde von 0.1 in Cura)
Grusse
Rudy
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This is impossible. with UM3, S3 and S5, there is no way to "tweak" and certainly not change the software. Also, these are expensive machines, in case of damaging you probably are in for a huge bill.
I feel your frustration, if you think it takes a long time to level the plate, try using a S5 😉But in the proces of printing, this is a negligible amount of time, to get it right from the first time.
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I have the opposite situation, on my UM3, the nozzle is always to close to the bed with active leveling. I solved this by using Z-offset (Cura plugin). Maybe you can try that?
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For this i use adaptive layers, with a minimum of 0.06mm. (this is the minimum i print)
These settings are (hidden?) under experimental. If you want to vary between 0.06mm an 0.2mm, set the normal layer height at 1.3mm and the layer max variation at 1.4mm. This is just an example, but it would be settings for a globe.
Can you change the layout of the parts?
For friction parts, i always try to print 1 of the touching parts without layers (Z flat)
For rounds i would print 1 horizontal an 1 vertical.
Ps, ironing is something to avoid in many situations, especially with fine layers.
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On 12/7/2016 at 5:32 AM, gr5 said:
Another reason to switch:
Continue failed print! What an amazing feature!
Also it's so easy to do. Afterwards you will be wondering why you waited so long.
Old post lol
Could you help me out, how to use this? Maybe i ame a bit lazy to search 😉 But can you put me in the right direction?
Thanks,
Rudy
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Is this still not fixed?? I don't understand this.
To be honest, the best implementation is the tinker firmware on my 2+. There i can set a timeout for the lights and the screen.
Please Ultimaker fix this!
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22 minutes ago, Pompopom said:
Heb ondertussen printer ontvangen en al wat testprintjes gedaan met de bijgeleverde rol PLA. Dat werkte naar mijn gevoel dik ok.
Daarna geprint met ASA. In theorie niet ondersteund door de printer, mezelf materiaal profiel, adhv datasheet, geüpload via SD kaart en dat werkte meteen goed. Alleen leek mij hier de adhesie van de lagen niet evenwaardig met de PLA. ‘T Is niet dat het stuk uiteenvalt, ver van, maar als ik (Veel) trekkracht zet dwars op de lagen dan kan ik het uit elkaar trekken en dat lijkt mij niet de bedoeling (maar ik kan me vergissen) Dus misschien toch iets warmer printen dan wat aangegeven staat op de sheet? Met hoeveel graden spelen jullie overigens? Is dat echt per graad? Of per blokjes van 5 graden om effect te zien?
Wat me zowel met PLA als de ASA een beetje tegenviel was de overhang. De startlaag is mooi glad (mede door de glasplaat) zijvlakken en topvlak ook in orde. Maar een overhang, zelfs van een paar mm (cfr de ultimaker robot) is aan de onderzijde van de overhang wat te “rafelig” naar mijn zin. Ben ik te kieskeurig of hoe lossen we zoiets op?
Als je twijfelt aan de "laaghechting", zou ik de temp iets laten stijgen, 5g of max 10g.
Overhang is natuurlijk de reden waarom dual extrusie bestaat. De UM robot is altijd wel wat moeilijk te printen, het is tenslotte een teststukje.
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Ik zou aanraden om de Tinker firmware te installeren, dan kan je een aantal extra instelligen doen, zoals verlichting en scherm uit na x tijd, dat piepend geluid bij het bedienen van de draaiknop uitschakelen, en nog wat extra mogelijkheden. (werking van d eprinter blijft identiek)
Voor de rest blijft het volgens mij de beste single extrusion printer van Ultimaker.
In Cura het je een een aantal goed ingestelde profielen, die je op weg zullen helpen. Bespaar niet op filament, Pla is een goede start, voor stevigeren stukken heb je tough pla, ook zeer eenvoudig te printen. Ik gebruik als hechting op de glazen plaat een dun laagje 3DLAC. Werkt altijd.
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First: the um2 is not bad, upgrades are not mandatory, it is a perfectly working printer, the um2. The + upgrade, is a nice to have.
But if you are on low budget, and have to chose between filament or upgrades? Do you encounter problems like it is now?
Then i would upgrade the parts which give you limitations today.
Personaly, i would stay away from third parties upgrades, Ultimaker machines are all about reliability, and therefore original parts are your best options.
And I, but that is me, would prefer the hotend upgrade as first, then you get more options in nozzle sizes, and easier to maintain the hotend. Working with the "old" feeder is more controllable, if you do not print at to high speeds with normal materials it is not a bad feeder.
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This is an easy upgrade, will test it out.
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3 minutes ago, ultiarjan said:
One of my Ultimaker2's is still original (apart from Tinkergnome's firmware), the 2 machines in the picture both have a duet board. On the left the UM2 with the 7"screen, which is silly, the 5"would look much better.... on the right my DIY Ultimaker GO extended, with the 5"screen. The screen position is not very smart if you want to use a front cover on the machine...
Yes, the 7inch looks silly, but i have that lying around... But maybe i can connect it with some sort of extension cable, and not fix it on the printer, but use it "on the side"
But to be honest, the only advantage is see is the wifi transfer of files. seems like a lot of work to archive that. 😭😁😳
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1 minute ago, ultiarjan said:
Biggest thing for me is ease of use, just send the file to it directly from Cura, monitor progress on your phone, do a reprint directly from the screen (if you have it) or just any device with a browser. Just total control from any device.
The control and ease of experimentation is also great, you control the whole setup from a few txt files, no more recompiling firmware, just a reboot. Also the machine becomes even more quiet.
got a picture?
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3 hours ago, ultiarjan said:
+1
If it's single extrusion and it fits the build plate I also prefer the UM2. My most used machine is my UM2 upgraded with a duet3D board, it just has the best workflow. I do usually use the S5 for the more exotic materials.
I have a complete Duet with big screen lying around, what would i gain by modding my 2+?
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49 minutes ago, Mightynova63 said:
Im new to the UM family as i just got a UM2 that has the + upgrade done. what did the duet3D board do for you? I have a robo3d, a Gmax xl+, and now the UM2+. my robo3d has about everything on it modded my Gmax is stock. The only thing i want to fix on my UM2+ is the noise, I have lots of squeaks cumming form somewhere in the gantry and i get a high pitch sound coming form one of my driver/ stepper motor on movement form one part/move to new location.
Something is wrong, my 2+ is my most quiet machine. How many hours on it?
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I use a S5 and a normal 3, on a daily base. But these are not fast machines. The second nozzle does impact speed and quality. So i just added a new 2+ to do my single material prints, nothing can beat this machine in single material prints.
I know that i am not alone in this thinking.
😉
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One of my complaints of the S5 are the terrible noises it makes, sometimes it shakes like crazy. This topic made me look into the speeds, i reduced these quite a bit to see if i can get it quiter, and oh yes!!!
Reducing print and travel acceleration to 200mm and the corresponding jerk to 15, is what i am testing now.
This is extreme, but no more shaking and hard work for the printer.
Print time went up from 1:20 to to 1:44
Anyone tweaked theire settings on a s5?
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10 hours ago, reyd8 said:
I'm getting weird behavior when I print a skirt with Cura 4.6. after printing the purge line, it the nozzel moves all the way to the other side of the bed, prints one line of the skirt, then moves and prints the second line from a different starting point. in Cura 4.5 it started the skirt from a point closest to the purge line and then printed the entire skirt in one continuous line.
Also a problem with the skirt here, the purge line it is not outside my print, but in the print; i had already 2 bad prints before i figured out what the problem was. Back to 4.5 it is. And is use a ultimaker S5.
UM3E Print Resolution
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
I suggest this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2166102
I will print it on my um3, Cura 4.6.1, default 0.15mm with ultimaker tough black pla setting. Probably will be on my printer in 24hours. (is busy now)