RudydG
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3D Prints
Posts posted by RudydG
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Anyone succesfully installed the latest version of Cura with the UM2 mk2? I always get the message that there is something wrong with my init files.
Working nice with 3.3.1
Wondering what could be wrong.
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Will there be support for the UM2 + MK2?
Then i am very interested!!
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I find it very difficult to dry "wet" filament, my nylon never got saved. (i use a food dryer)
Best practice is surely to never get the filament wet, i store i dryboxes with tons of silicagel and moisture meters, and i print out of the polybox.
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Duet3d WIFI + expansion print + paneldue in use ?
This is the best board i ever found, so easy and powerfull!!
Many thanx for the tip!
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HAllo,
I am building a printer with the UM3 printhead assembly, complete with original cores.
What would help me is the switching code for the nozzle lift / lowering mechanism.
Anyone in possesion of this code?
Many thanks,
Rudy
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I have the same experience, joy to use for parts which are strong enough and do not need the 100% finishing. Pva with support roof + ironing is better, but not easy to use, more critical in humidity, and a lot of time lost for removing the stuff.
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Hoi, can you do this trick again for the 3.3.1 Cura? have the same problem again...
Thanks,
R
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Update:
Ordered the complete Duet set (wifi board + 5 expansion board + 7inch lcd + pt100 board + IR board)
?
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Very very nice, thank you!!!
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Didn't try the 3D hubs .
But you say, 50 for the plate thrue Ultimaker?
Got a number of that?
Many thanks,
Rudy
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Just curious, how is this project?
I am also "in love" with the new cores from my UM3
I am modifying an old Leapfrog, already transformed the X-Y so i can "accomodate" the dual head principle from the um3. And now the UM3 drawings are available, it is so much easier...even the head switching is printable.
Just 2 parts that are still tricky, the metal bottom plate (cost around 100€ to get it made in metal true materialise), and the electrical connection (print)
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Same here, crash right after the start. Osx 10.13.4 on Macbook Air 2012
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Yes, i am reading myself in, and indeed, the duet3 seems to be a good candidate, and easy to work with.
Just figuring out if the cost is justified for this printer.
Got a good source to buy these boards?
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8 hours ago, neotko said:
You should seriously think on using a duet3D. Can use high amp nemas, allows mirror, duplication, has a forum for users, extensive documentation and uses a updated firmware (um2 firmware only has updates thanks to the personal work of tinkergnome).
Also, way cheaper than a 300€ um2 board
But can i use the UM2 firmware on this board? I would like to keep the software side simple, and would like to have the ultimaker features (like loading and unloading material) ?
Just checked, wow, some serious forum, and it seems to be the motherboard of 'today" ;-)
Will check into it!!
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4 hours ago, tinkergnome said:
Thanks!!!!
Did some research, and because the Z axe is a nema23 stepper, i will have to use an external beefier driver, so i am limited to the choice of motherboard, it will be a rumba. But the firmware will ben compatible ofcourse.
Starting a long project, but in the end, it will be a 300x300,300mm dual head printer ;-)
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45 minutes ago, SandervG said:
Hi @RudydG, welcome to the community!
Sounds like an ambitious project, good luck with it.
Regarding the firmware, have you checked out our github account already? There is a firmware repository as well.
As for the print head, I imagine the magnetic toolchanger might be easier to do? And it is very well received in our community too. Both hardware might be easier sourced and it also has custom firmware and a lot of support in our community.
Sander, thanks for the reply.
I am already a UM2+ mark2 user for about a year now, enyoing it very much. That is why i would like this system (motherboard + firmware) as a start to rebuild the Creator. In the past i build lots of repraps with ramps and rumba's, but once i got used to the symplicity of the UM2 boards + firmware and display, i am hooked to it.
Basicly, the only difference between the Leapfrog and the UM would be the X-Y-Z dimensions, (i wil have to reposition some endswitches), the heater + printbed settings (Pid), and some calibration of the extruders, unless i chose to use the UM2 types. (maybe i buy 2 um2+ upgrade kits)
But, i will have to get acces to the firmware source code om the UM2 mk2.
Greetings,
Rudy
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Hello,
i have an old Leapfrog HS creator, which i would like to "recycle" and make it working again.
Some basic needs:
-Adapt it to use 3mm filament instead of 1.75mm
-Switch motherboard and display, possible to um2 board.
-Maybe integrate um3 printhead,, ideal would be even 2, and make a head switching situation like the um3. Other possibility would be adapting the beatifull magnetic dual head system like on my adapted um2.
Anybody tips? Is there um2 firmware that i can adapt myself to make it suitable to the bigger buildplatform?
Many thanks,
Rudy
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I just bought my first roll of breakaway (i normally use polysupport, comparable material i think).
First findings are that it is a very very comparable material, which could mean, it is hygroscopical, just like polysupport.
I fully understand your findings, and the tempting "easy" placement on the back of the ultimaker.
My setup at this moment:
2 rolls in printing are always in my Polybox, which i adapted with some extra exit holes, so it is easier to route the filament out.
Opened rolls are kept in big plastic boxes (+-8 rolls per box), with 500grams of silicagel, and monitored with cheap aliexpress hygrometers.
Wet silicalgell is dried in a fooddryer for 12hrs. (with drying of a wet roll filament i never got good results, so the trick is to avoid contamination)
The silicagell is dryed when i get about 18% in my boxes. I live i a moderate climate situation, if i look at my interiour now, 21c, 45Rh%
Bottom line:
Dry filament is very important! But easy loading / unloading also. And for my believing breakaway is hygroscopic.
So my answers:
My questions:
1. Is the Ultimaker Breakaway filament hydroscopic (absorbs water from the atmosphere)? YES
2. Can it be ruined by leaving it in a humid atmosphere? YES
3. Can it be safely dried by using a heater? NOT FOR ME
4. What is the suggested temperature to dry UM Breakaway? ---
Happy printing!
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Pva does not stick on PLA, this is a known problem. You can try to use the horizontal expansion settting, until the pva touches the buildplate from the buildplate up.
I always avoid pva as much as possible, and use polymaker polysupport, whenever i can. Easier to print, no messy water proces.
Greatings,
Rudy
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Hey, thanks for you support, and all you work!! Really appreciate this!
Indeed i think it is time to do something different, and connect the printer to a network, then i can use the direct methode, like i do on my other UM's.
Will do that as soon the printer is free.
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Even 1 circular object of 150mm can't be auto-arranged. always have to do this manualy.
Not one of cura's strongest point.
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Sure, in Cura you select the um2+, remove the dock, hang the 2nd head outside the printer, and you machine is a UM2+
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On 2/6/2018 at 12:37 AM, yyh1002 said:
Thanks for the update! The new definition totally worked with quality options in CURA 3.2b. Creating and updating profiles finally works properly.
I've been creating multiple machines to have dedicated setting for head 1 print, head 2 print, PVA support and PVA interface only print.
And I find UltiGcode flavor works more handy than Marlin.
The start code for Marlin would heat up and prime both nozzle in all conditions. But in UltiGcode mode, only the necessary nozzle will be heated up.
Great! thanks for the support, as this is critical to use the mk2 to the level of an UM3.
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-Just checked the FW version,
3.5.3.20161221
-Files are certainly in the correct format. (no tar at the end)
Cura 3.4.1 working with mark2 on macbook air ?
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Thanks, this solved my problem. 3.4.1 is working now with the mk2 on macbook air OSX;-)