RudydG
-
Posts
360 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by RudydG
-
-
I like Polymakers Polymax to print with. For sticking to the heated bed, 3dlac is a good alternative.
Very good filament, the only pla i use these days, wand as supportmaterial their polysupport.
-
I have both the UM2 and UM3
My UM3 just ... works, no hassle, no tinkering, extremely easy, problems with nozzle, replace the core.
My UM2 i upgraded tot the UM2+, and after that to the mark2 version. Works really great. But a little bit more work (tinkering ;-)
If i would have to buy a machine that is reliable and easy, it would be the 3.
-
1
-
-
.......i will just make 1 modification, 2 exit holes for the filament in the base section for easy switching of materials.
There are three holes already.... at the top and bottom of the clear casing. I am not sure I understand what you mean about making 2 exit holes.
This explains:
-
Same here! Had a lot of trouble with pva / nylon / and other exotics. Bought a food dryer, and cooked all of my filaments. Was able to save some of them.
Then i took some storage boxes, where i put the "open" reels in, with 500 grams silica gel, and was able to keep the humidity under 20%. So storage is secure.
Then, still the problem of taking the reels out and putting them on the printer. Holala, the Polybox came to rescue. Cheap and convenient, i will just make 1 modification, 2 exit holes for the filament in the base section for easy switching of materials.
I think many people don't realise the importance of keepingthe filamenst dry, and experience problems without knowing the real cause...
-
My dear friend, do a search on the mark 2 project, it is just what you ask!!!
8 hours of printing, 1 small extra print incl. some cabling, and you are ready to go.
Everything is done for you ;-)
Happy dual printing!
-
PVA and Nylon are very sensitive to humidity.
I just bought a big fooddryer, to dry my filaments (after having the "steaming" trouble with an almost full reel of ultimaker Nylon)
Dryed the nylon for 14 hours at 75 degrees celcius, and now it seems fine again.
The pva is also dried, but didn't test it yet.
I am drying all of my open reels, and after drying, i put them in a plastic box with 1kg of silica gel (the color changing type), and hope to keep them in good condition that way.
-
1
-
-
And about the printhead moving to the center of the bed before moving to the prime tower. did anyone find a solution for this? It's indeed annoying...
Hi to all !
Yes ! it's indeed very very annoying, it kills completely the prime tower interest.
I tried to apply the Mark2Tweaks.py pluging, it doesn't work for me, may be this could work for someone else ?
Dear Gudo,
i just tested S3D 4.0, and there, the head moves as it should. To the ooze shield, not the center of the printbed.
I also tested Cura (2.7.2 B), and even if i put the prime pillar in the center, and the print at the rear left position, it goes to the print BEFORE it goes to the prime pillar.
So i assume it is a Cura thing.
What software version, and what X and Y start positions do you use?
Just found out, cura, can't change the x and y start position, the settings is hidden by the active machine and will not be visible???
-
And about the printhead moving to the center of the bed before moving to the prime tower. did anyone find a solution for this? It's indeed annoying...
Hi to all !
Yes ! it's indeed very very annoying, it kills completely the prime tower interest.
I tried to apply the Mark2Tweaks.py pluging, it doesn't work for me, may be this could work for someone else ?
Dear Gudo,
i just tested S3D 4.0, and there, the head moves as it should. To the ooze shield, not the center of the printbed.
I also tested Cura (2.7.2 B), and even if i put the prime pillar in the center, and the print at the rear left position, it goes to the print BEFORE it goes to the prime pillar.
So i assume it is a Cura thing.
What software version, and what X and Y start positions do you use?
-
Actually if you want to experiment you can already change the tool change code by reading them in from a SD card (details earlier described here somewhere).
Can you point me in the right direction? can't find it?
Thanks
-
After some time working with the Mark 2, i must say it works really well!!! Toolhead changes work reliable, calibration is steady. Once everything is measured in, ;-)
I use the second head mainly for 2 color prints, or supporting material. I use PVA (delicate parts) and Polysupport, which i like very much, because of the ease of use!
At this moment 1 thing is not working ok, when i use wipe wall in cura (2.6-2.7 beta), the nozzle is already inside the print area (inside the the wipewall) when the printing are is reached after a toolhead change. No wipe is done on the wall.
When i use a prime pillar, the head goes over the center of the bed where my print is, before going to the prime pillar.
And it would be really nice, to be able to set the speeds of X , Y and Z axe for the toolhead change movements. They are now very noisy with my printer, which is in my linving room, if i could tune these values, it would be nice. Maybe i would sacrify some speed versus less noise.
Happy printing!!!!
-
Where do i find / set these settings in Cura?
I have a UM2+ mark 2 dual head, and while these settings are in the firmware, they seem to have no effect. So i assume it is somewhere hidden in Cura. I do not speak of the regular retraction settings, but for the toolhead change settings?
Many thanks!
-
OK Hear we Go Latest prints I have tried to get out but with banding
Left was to hot but a bit of banding centre re calabrated extruder (Long Story) better but with banding right UM no messing.
tried a vase same layer height .20
would not buy another BCN
Ok, can see clearly why :-(
I tried lots of printers, and to be honest, only the ultimakers gave me the fine prints
without the trouble other had.
-
The greentec is a very good filament!! Make sure you have a good first layer and 60 degrees printbed, and the rest is easy. Very high temp resistant.
-
Rudy dG
where do you want me to start, the firmware, the lack of support, the lack of the ability to control speed functions, if you watch the reviews by 3d printing nerd and Thomas, they both say the Firmware holds the Machine back.... AND I TOTALLY AGREE, just updating the firmware is a pain, I have three computer windows 10 windows 7 and xp forget xp it wont speek to machine, windows 10 gets a serious strop, only windows 7 speaks to it and that's using there official Drivers.
updating the screen is a separate issue you have to update that separately and that has issues using a mSD and you have to bin the one with the machine... I could go on and on!!! I fitted Bondtechs to the machine and they work ????? having that discussion with bondtech at moment No I'll stop.
The machine has spent 3 days trying to get a single head print and a dual head print and I cant get one... it goes on ebay next week I'M no Boffin and I'm no Dumbxxxxxxx but I'm hacked off with it!!!!!.
If you'd like I'l post a picture of single head print and dual..
Bob,
I saw the reviews, and also the comments. Being a computernerd (kind of), it never was a determinated factor. I thougt the printer just was not the "fine" machine wat i found in the UM 2+ (mk2) and my UM3
And ofcourse, the ease, be it software, firmware or the print itself, sets the UM family at a very high level!
Would like to see the samples you printed on the bcn.
Gr
eetings from Belgium ;-)
-
Hi RudydG
thanks for this I use the below on my BCN (which I'm not happy with)
{IF NEWTOOL=0}T0 ; start tool switch 0
{IF NEWTOOL=0}G1 Y250 F8000 ; travel
{IF NEWTOOL=0}G1 E-0.5 F500 ; fast purge
{IF NEWTOOL=1}T1 ; start tool switch 1
{IF NEWTOOL=1}G1 Y250 F8000 ; travel
{IF NEWTOOL=1}G1 E-0.5 F500 ; fast purge
will your script work for My BCN - I am planning to do the Mark 2 conversion on my UM2
Bob, what is not to like on your BCN? was on my shortlist also.
The script i posted is only for the change, and on the UM2+ mk2 there is no solution to purge at very change (like your script would do) But wit the bcn i believe there is a recipient ot get rid of the waste?
-
My first result with 4.0 on dual extrusion is, bad. maybe some "tuning" to do.
The thing i don't like about Cura, is the overall feeling of the program, with its settings menu's, it is slow and there is no logic in the interface, as with S3D it is very nice, and easy to find settings and change things. But probaly at this moment it is the best dual extrusion solution?
Will have to make some more prints with S3D 4.0 before final judgement.
-
1
-
-
Does some kind of cooling down, but not as good as cura.
It goes down about 10 degrees. and the second extruder cooled down completely once it was no longer used.
Also, about pillar height, noticed that my pillar went higher than the highest point of my print. Very strange!!!
This is my tool change script. At the moment npt active, but you can try it.
T[new_tool]
; uncomment section below to use idle temperatures
{IF NEWTOOL=0};M104 S170 T1 ; idle right extruder
{IF NEWTOOL=0};M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; heat left extruder
{IF NEWTOOL=1};M104 S170 T0 ; idle left extruder
{IF NEWTOOL=1};M109 S[extruder1_temperature] T1 ; heat right extruder
-
You can limit the primepillar height using the variable settings wizzard, at the height you want it to stop. Then you get multiple processes. then you can choose one of them, and disable the primepillar.
This is not new, existed before, but now it is made easier.
-
My favorite slicer, now even better ;-)
Many new features. The king in support structures, can combine pla with pva as support structure for economics!
-
There is an upgrade kit, you change the extruder + hotend and all the cabling.
Everything is included.
After installing you download the new firmware, and you are on a 2+
No changes to mainboard.
-
During calibration I think no. Usually during the first few layers fans are completely turned off.
Do you mean, also the one in the middle, that is normally always on in the printhead #1? I'm printing a dual extrusion test right now, currently at layer 4; all 3 fans on printhead #1 are spinning, but on printhead #2 they are still off..
With the Mark 2 board, the middle fan of head 2 comes on at about +70 degrees, and the 2 product cooling fans are controlled thrue the settings in your slicer.
-
About the leaning's issue.
I was thinking that you could move part of the T1's offset on the slicer. In few words I mean you might try to move the decimal part [or at least one part] on the offset extruder present in S3D and select "apply toolhead offset to g-code coordinates". The selection of "apply toolhead offset" is necessary to get a clean g-code and to not interfere with mark2's toolchange script.
For example, after the calibration we have an offset like X [18.17] Y [-25.38].
We leave a setting similar to X [18.00] Y [-25.00] on the machine, instead in S3D we set an X [0.17] Y [-00.38] and we apply the toolhead offset. I think Cura requires the modification of the machine definition files because it doesn't have a similar setting.
I did not test it because I am working with single.
Do you think it could be a temporary solution?
Marco, yes, i think it could be a solution. But i dont know of it can be used in cura?
And ofcourse, it requires a 2 step calibration.
-
update on the leaning thing.
Remember I did a test with cura 2.5 and 2.6beta, and only had the leaning on 2.6 beta?
Just did a test based on Cura 2.6 final..... no leaning..... and i did NOT make any changes to the offset values since the last test...
Ohh and I also did not have a Z issue at the start of the print...
Any off you tried 2.6 final?
Yes, i am on Cura 2.6 final now. Never tested the 2.6 Beta.
Did a new calibration X-Y.
And a few prints pla+pva (just struggling with adhesion of PVA) but i see no leaning.
Only thing in encountered with the 2.6, that you have to enter the X and Y start like in the previous versions, to avoid a strange move of the second extruder in the print process. This still puzzles me.
Update 2:
Bad luck, it is still there, now leaning in the X direction to the right. (cura 2.6 pla + pva , 0,1mm layerheight)
This is sad. Think i will have to put the project on hold until it is properly solved.
Update 3:
Something funny came up. Halway the print, which i see leaning to the right, i checked my offsets again. The X was xx.17? I was quit sure that i had it put on a even number.
Anyway, changed it halfprint to a round value (rounded to .05), like it is advised now in the new calibration section of the build manual. Will check this in the morning.
Update 4:
This morning, the print seems to be straight again (from the point i changed the X value to a rounded value)
Still some 12hrs to go, then the print is finished, and i can put a ruler against it.
-
update on the leaning thing.
Remember I did a test with cura 2.5 and 2.6beta, and only had the leaning on 2.6 beta?
Just did a test based on Cura 2.6 final..... no leaning..... and i did NOT make any changes to the offset values since the last test...
Ohh and I also did not have a Z issue at the start of the print...
Any off you tried 2.6 final?
Yes, i am on Cura 2.6 final now. Never tested the 2.6 Beta.
Did a new calibration X-Y.
And a few prints pla+pva (just struggling with adhesion of PVA) but i see no leaning.
Only thing in encountered with the 2.6, that you have to enter the X and Y start like in the previous versions, to avoid a strange move of the second extruder in the print process. This still puzzles me.
Cura variable layer heigth
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I design and print a lot of functional prototypes (UM2 MK2 and UM3)
Parts are often rather big, and complex. Some parts do not need to be 0.1mm all the way, but just a part of it. At this moment i have a part printing 3 days (with support material), in .1mm. Printed in .2 it woul be a day and a half. But i have to select .1, even if only 20% of the part needs .1
Can i achive this in Cura? (S3D does it, but is not so good in changing tools / temperature.
Many thanks!!