RudydG
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3D Prints
Posts posted by RudydG
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Klinkt anders dan wat er bij mijn Ultimakers gebeurt als de Z "compenseert"
Benieuwd of je leverancier kan helpen.
Succes
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I try to print this, with the default settings (recommended / PC generic) in Cura (bed 110, nozzle 280, infill 30%, support with breakaway) Doors of printer are closed.
It prints ok, bed adhesion is very good, no warping, (i use Dymafix), but i do not get good layer adhesion. Same piece in tough pla is better at layer bonding level.
Anyone a clue why?
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Very interesting!
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I had the same "problem", i have 3 and was on the fence for another 3, or an S5. In the end, i bought a S5. Glad is did, it is a very mature printer, with a wide range of supported materials, and a superb support of Cura. For the last week i only used Cura's recommended settings, nor 1 fail!
HAppy!!
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When i have this issue with my S5, it is always a "blob" under my left nozzle.
Is everything clean?
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Zoek het zeker in het levellen van het printbed, mijn UM3 had net hetzelfde verschijnsel. Ik heb ook gezocht, en uiteindelijk ontdenkt dat het uit het niet juist gecalibreerd zijn van het printbed voortkwam. Paar keer manueel levellen en het was opgelost.
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I know, i have these, but they are "packed" in black nylons (stockings?) so the color was invisible.
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We all know how sensitive some filaments are when it comes to humidity. Over the years i learned it the hard way, and last year, i realized, that storing filament is a delicate task.
So i bought some boxes, filled them with 1 kg silicalgel, and put in each box a humidity meter. So far so good. Reading was constantly under 20%, everything fine. Until i took out some rolls to work with, and got a bad feeling, almost all my special rolls gave moisture problems (2 types PVA, Nylon, greentec and TPU. This morning i decided to check the meters, and they are all faulty. They are in my living room now, where the humidity is now 47, the meters (3) still indicate 15% after 2 hours....temperature reading is ok.
So i got caught, even though i am not the "cheap buying" guy, relying on a cheap part.
Just had to write it off me !!!
Greetings,
Rudy
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On 12/1/2018 at 12:29 PM, kmanstudios said:
In all seriousness, only you can decide. It really depends on your goals.
I can get a lot of things done on my S5 that I cannot on the UM3 Extended.
One thing to consider is the use of abrasive materials. The S5 does have a hardened feeder wheel. The UM3 series does not.
External size is there to allow for *lot* more of the buildplate to be used.
MUCH easier to load and unload.
While I am decent at 'looking ahead' on material left on a spool it still will bite me on the patootie when I miscalculate. Did so yesterday after returning from the Dr. Appointment. Danged UM3E had run out of material. Had to take the feeder off because the vendor used tape on the lead end on the spool to secure the filament when initially winding it. While it did not drag all the tape into the feeder, it dragged enough to create an issue. It was all my fault, but hey, mistakes do happen.
And honestly, speed is something of an overall generalization in that even on the Um3 series and below it can be an issue. I constantly see posts where people are told to slow down the print speeds. I am printing two prints right now on my UM3Es that anything above 20ms will cause issues. But, then, I do not print things like most others do....most of it is a bit oddball as far as 3D printing usage goes. I find most want to make mechanical things and I do spindly, organic stuff for the most part. And that is also done on the UM3E and S5. So, I do know the S5 can handle delicate things.
Bit the bullet, S5 is in the house 😉
Does anyone has made a drox at the back of an s5? I have a Polybox, works good, but is not compact, i think i will make a box myself, that is "connected" to the back of the S5.
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I was planning buying an S5, but in the end, i don't think the price for me is justified. After reading a lot here, and seeing one in action.
-Build volume is bigger, but i also have an old 300x300x200 transformed Leapfrog with Duet wifi and UM3 cores.
-Speed is not better than UM3, could even be worse, XY gantry is beefed up, more mass is less speed. (learned this when i bought my first UM2)
-Filament detection is nice, but in most cases one can "look ahead".
-External size is huge, surely compared to the elegant UM3
-No led off function, i know for most people no problem, but for me at this price range...
So probably an UM3 with some goodies (front door, some extra cores) will be the better choice.
Am i thinking right?
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Probeer dan eens de led verlichting uit te zetten, en zie of het dan nog gebeurd. Zou al een eenvoudige test kunnen zijn.
En ja, de ledstrips kunnen problemen geven, deze zijn aangesloten op het mainboard, dus kunnen zelfs schade veroorzaken daaraan. Je zou ook kunnen aan het mainboard de ledverlichting afkoppelen. Weet je het zeker of het daar zit.
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1 minute ago, Smithy said:
Hello Rudy
I believe it is a big deal for you, otherwise you would not mention it here. But the behavior of your UM2+ is not with the stock firmware, because these timeout features come with the Tinkergome firmware or not?
As written in my previous post, the LED can be controlled via the API of the printer. So what I want to check now is, if I can find a possibility in the code of the printer, to catch an event when touching the display or turning the knob on the UM3. If it is easy to get such an event, then a little script which would run on the printer itself could achieve your requirements. But that needs a little bit of research because I am familiar with python but not with the implementation of it on the UM3 and S5.
Indeed, i use the Tinkerware firmware, but i think for someone who builds 3d printers, develop firmwares, Cura software, we can assume that this basic reature should be a piece of cake.
Personaly i build machines, and i can tell you, listening to the operators, and the user interface is the most important piece of my development. And the smallest thing for me, can be a major annoyance for someone else.
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3 hours ago, Smithy said:
I know we could argue, that a printer in this price range has to have such features out of the box and it is not acceptable.
Hello Smithy,
Understanding your point, but, I don't think you fully realise what the impact of this situation is. I really have a problem with this, my desk is at the side of a parking place, i have to close my rolling curtains, and even then, it is still visible from streetlevel, i have to explain to the secury guard, and my fellow workers don't consider me "eco-friendly" because my working space is always lit.
So for me it is a big deal. Surely for a machine of this pricelevel.
Greetings,
Rudy
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2 hours ago, SandervG said:
Hi Everyone, thank you for all the feedback. Due to the intensity of some of these responses I suspect not everyone is experiencing the same intended behavior. @Bigbrit, can you share a video or photo of what your garage looks like when the LEDs are off?
The bug that was fixed in the firmware was a bug that some printers did not respond when you moved the sliding bar to the far left (off) on the Ultimaker S5 display, so LEDs stayed on at 100%. This is fixed, meaning, the sliding bar should work for everyone. Small nuance, when the slider bar is to the far left the LEDs are not 100% off, I think they might be on for 1% or less.
When I just checked, I didn't even see they were still on except when I held my hand entirely against the frame I saw a faint glow. Is this glow what you are talking about @Shadowman ? I think the lights of the print cores are probably brighter.
Next there is also an option to select 'Only on while printing', which means that the LEDs are on until you click 'confirm print removal' on the display.
Based on this discussion I think it's good to validate some definitions and scenarios.
When the LEDs are off, but glow minimally by 1%, is this troublesome for anyone?
If you want to prove a point, photo's would be much appreciated.
If so, in which scenario? I read somewhere office security might have an issue with it. In this case, would it make more sense to turn off the LEDs yourself anyway? If 'on while printing' would be enabled, there is a fair chance the LEDs would still be on anyway when you run a multi-day print.
And generally, in which scenario do you feel the LEDs are not supporting your needs?
Looking forward hearing from you, and apologies if the 'LEDs are fixed in the firmware'-statement was confusing. I understand we might have been talking about different behavior/bug.
Hello,
Glad you chime in.
I am the guy with the security problem (at this moment with my UM3)
It is plain simple.
For me the ideal solution is (for UM3 and S5):
Led on for xx minutes (like 10 or so, settings in menu) and after this time dimming to 0 (maybe 1%, would have to test this on a new S5)
Then after this xx minutes, when the leds are dimmed, switch them back on by touching the panel, or in case of the UM3 rotating the knob.
This is the actual working situation on my UM2+ (mark2), works wonderfull.
If you can't achive this, i will have to put a switch between the led strips.
My S5 will be printing big jobs for several days.
Many thanks ?
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Yes, even my old UM2+ already has this feature, and this expensive printer, where we pay the premium for what should be a super balanced piece of technology, lacks a basic feature.
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I will not even buy i it before they implement this feature.
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They got to be kidding, for a machine of his pricelevel, we can expect at least a intelligent lighting situation, dimming to 0 after x time, auto on a touch of the screen, AND, auto on when accessing the camera. I think this must be about 1 hour of programming work.
Again, at my office have problems with the night guard / security, and even co-workers, who don't understand that these lights are on day and night!
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Are these Guys from another planet? It should be a basic feature!!!
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And when i touch the screen the leds come on again?
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Completely, does this mean no leds at all? i would like to be able to switch them off after some time in the print.
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I am planning the purchase of this new printer, but is surely hope that there is an led-off function? It would be rediculous not having this. The room where the printer will be standing will be lit for several days?
I have a UM3 at the office, and have a lot of issues regarding the lights always on with security and fellow-workers.
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17 hours ago, Smithy said:
It is really hard to say, but the UM3 and S5 are, basically the same. You got a much better feeder, filament sensor and touch display with the S5 and ofc a bigger build volume. The glass doors are also a nice feature. But if your budget is not that issue, I would go with the S5, because I like those small extras and I like the bigger volume.
My first printer was the UM3 (not extended) because I thought the build volume is enough and I don't print larger things. But after a short time, I had to scale down some models because they were too big for the UM3. Cutting a larger object is one possibility, but gluing together could be really terrible.
The second printer was a UM2 GO, yes the completely the opposite, but I love this machine. I print most of my technical parts on this printer, because it is so quick. There is a huge speed difference between UM2 and UM3/S5, because of the dual head and the weight of it. So if I want to print a quick part, I do it on the UM2GO. Regarding print quality, I would say, that the UM2GO has the best quality of my 3 printers.
And then comes the S5 and I love it too, but mainly because of the big build volume.
So I would suggest to buy an UM3 if you are low on budget or if enough budget available buy an UM S5. The UM 3 Extended is out of scope in my opinion, it is too expensive for just 10cm more in Z and the difference to the S5 is not so big.
I think this pretty much covers it. I am into simplicity. (otherwise i would not buy expensive UM printers)
2 printers at home are a no go for me. And the Go is to small. The S5 is ofcourse the ultimate machine, but besides the build volume, which i now realise, is "only" 240mm (when printing roud or symetrical parts) there is no real advantage. The rest are nice to haves, but...
Maybe for the price difference can add a nice scanner ?
Anyway, i have to go the store to see the S5 in action, and then i will be able to make the final conclusion.
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5 hours ago, Xalara said:
Truth be told, the 5S is basically a UM3 with a far larger build area. So if you are happy with the UM3 and you want a larger build area then the 5S makes sense. However, if you you don't need the build area you may as well save your money and get a UM3.
I see 4 important differences:
-Build volume (although it is a nice to have, not neccesary)
-Print quality.
-Ease of use. Particulary network printing, love the "hotspot" tought.
-Filament run out sensor.
But is all this worth the price difference? Not sure.
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I am thinking about buying an S5. I have a UM2+ MK2, which i liked a lot, until i bought a UM3 for my job. Now i find de UM2+ ok, but just a litlle bit to "fiddly" compared to the UM3.
Are there issues with this S5 machine?
UM in cold room -> warping and other unpleasantnesses
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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I had the same problem with another printer in the past, closing the printer made it impossible to print with pla (no more cooling), so i gues that if you close your printer, you also have to "regulate" the temperature otherwise it will become to warm.