Xalara

I haven't had a chance to really dig into testing since this project is on a bit of a deadline. That said, current work around was: Printing the arms as separate models, 4-% infill, use a priming tower, and printing at 0.15mm instead of 0.1mm since it's just as good and I'll be smoothing it with vapors anyway. @kmanstudios: Lower temp doesn't work out so well. I used to print around 195 celsius but PolySmooth (PVB) really wants to be around 220 I've found. I will be revisiting this later with more tests (ie. print at different temps/resolution/speed). I've also run into some ER18 issues which I'm contacting Ultimaker support about, so I'm currently waiting for some help from them on this.

I can do that later when I get home. In terms of printing I'm not too worried about the "pimples" and stringing since they are cleaned up easily with my fingernails. It tends to happen because Polymaker PolySmooth is on the gooey side and some oozes out while PVA is printing. That said the part breaking and unevenness in the horizontal size of layers definitely is a problem. Now that I think about it, PolySmooth's behavior when multimaterial printing is similar to Ultimaker TPU-95A, so maybe a priming tower is needed? It's definitely not as gooey as TPU-95A but it seems up there.

The two materials are Ultimaker PVA and Polymaker PolySmooth (PVB).

Here is a picture of the part I am trying to debug after the supports were dissolved. Notice that, especially in the areas where rapid material changes occur, there's an unevenness to the layers. Also the area where the part broke you can see that the internal fill was not being filled in.

I've noticed slight under extrusion issues when multimaterial printing with PolySmooth on my Ultimaker 3. In particular, right after switching materials from PVA, it seems that it takes a bit for the PolySmooth to get going again. Currently I use a PLA profile at 0.1mm layer height with the temperature overridden to 220-225 Celsius and the print speed overridden to 50mm/s. Is there some other settings adjustments I can make or is this a case where I'll need to use a priming tower to get the PolySmooth flowing again after a material switch?

Apologies for the long delay in responding. Indeed, running the filanent in a dehumidifier at 54 Celsius for several hours solved the problem. Additionally, once dry it's fine to print at the recommended temperature of 220-225 Celsius.

I've been using PLA as the base profile and printing at 210 celsius with a layer height of 0.15mm. At the very least I can confirm Ultimaker's PVA is compatible with PolySmooth. Unfortunately I've run into the following issues while printing 3DBenchy: As it prints there's been a number of pops. Normally this signals a water absorption problem but the filament is fresh out of package and the ambient humidity is 35% Under extrusion has also been an issue with tiny little holes in the outer wall. I'm attempting to solve this by printing slower than 70mm/s Any ideas?

Based on what you guys said, I ordered a spool of filament to test print settings and also see how compatible the PVB is with PVA supports on my UM3. I want to make sure it works before I get a polysher.

I have an Ultimaker 3 and would like to print with PolySmooth. Has anyone else printed with this material, and if so, could you share your Cura settings?

Thank you Rebekah, making the value smaller fixed my problem.

Does anyone know why Cura would be placing these extraneous supports on the side? It has been puzzling me. It's been doing it to a bunch of the models I've been printing. I've posted an example here: https://imgur.com/a/3cJrG

For anyone who finds this thread in the future: The solution ended up being using hairspray/BuildTak to give super adhesion and then turning down the heated print bed from 60 celsius to 35 celsius after the first two layers. It seems that between layers 3 to 50, having the heated print bed at 60 celsius causes warping issues with PLA on certain kinds of models.

Thank you, since it's the easiest for me to get in the US, I'm going to try BuildTac next and a hotter print bed in the first few layers. I am also going to go back to the recommended Ultimaker settings for everything else except initial layer speed and the brim since I need it on the inside of the model. If I still get lift problems I'm going to add some thicker "disks" at the corners that I can cut off. Apparently that has helped others.

What you said mhotze got me thinking, and upon examining the underside you can see a correlation between where the warping occurs and where it has lifted off the plate: https://imgur.com/gallery/9uB24 so adhesion definitely seems to be an issue. I think you are correct in that the slight lift off the build plate is causing it to warp because it doesn't happen everywhere and it does eventually correct itself. Now the question is: How to fix this. My current print run is suffering from the same thing, I suspect lowering the build plate temperature may not have helped with lift issues. Do you have any ideas?

Thank you for your reply, your post was pretty informative. So far I've been using bare glass. I'm doing another print now where I've lowered the build plate to 55 degrees, put glue all over it. I also have the fan go to 100% on layer 2, and have a top/bottom thickness of 2mm in addition to the settings stated above. Here's where it's at now: http://imgur.com/a/q44Za I really like your comparison but I'm not sure where I'd get 3D Lac here in America. Seems that regular old hair spray like got2be might work well too?

I recently purchased the UM3 intending to use it to help make costume props. Unfortunately I keep running into issues where the first 50 layers or so are warping with recommended and non-default settings on High Quality mode with Ultimaker Silver Metallic PLA. Either the model I am attempting to print is too ambitious or something is wrong with how I am trying to print. Has anyone else had issues with warping on the first 50 layers and if so, what was the solution? Here is a gallery of images with what I've been trying to print alongside examples of the warping: http://imgur.com/a/JSJG7 The custom settings are: - Infill density 35% (from 20%) - Initial layer travel speed 15mm/s (from 20mm/s) - Wall thickness 1.5mm (from 1.0mm) - Brim width 15mm with a line count of 43 (from 7mm and line count of 20) - Brim only on outside is false (used to be true) Other info: - The print is occuring in temperatures of 10 celsius to 20 celsius.