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Brulti

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Posts posted by Brulti

  1. Perso, j'ai installé des cameras IP Logitech et une prise electrique IP WeMo. Un coup d'oeil de temps en temps aux caméras, si je vois que ça part en sucette, je coupe tout via la prise.

     

    C'est certes moins élégant qu'une tarte a la framboise ou qu'un pingouin, mais c'est la solution simple et rapide. Je n'ai pas envie de passer a nouveau une journée a nettoyer mes printcores de tout le filament accumulé dessus suite a un print qui a merdé en début de nuit. Une fois m'a suffit.

  2. I have the same problem, and I've also realized that priming in one form or another is needed because sometimes the filament isn't loaded as it should. So, without priming, parts of the first layer will not be printed as the filament isn't where it should be. So all the printcore extrude at the beginning is hot air, until the filament reaches it.

     

    By default, the 'Enable Prime Blob' option is checked in Cura, meaning it will do the prime poop thing.

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  3. As @gr5 said, this is most certainly due to the glass not being perfectly flat. It seems to happen a lot, I guess UM should try and get better glasses from another supplier.

    Anyway, you can try and call your supplier to have the glass exchanged, or, you could try to print on the other side of the glass. I bought a second glass bed, and the second one was less thick in the middle on one side than the other, so flipping it over solved my printing troubles.

  4. Back on topic a bit, to add another testimony for @Bossler.

     

    I'v bought a UM3E about 6 months ago, after much time spent looking online, reading reviews and so on, comparing with other brands and even other technologies (resin, metal sintering, etc). I've been quite happy with the machine itself, and the support from my local (French) reseller has been nothing short of awesome.

     

    The printer has seen quite a lot of use in 6 months, I experimented with every material that UM currently offers, and I've even started trying other materials, like UV reactant and such.

     

    The few problems I had were quickly resolved, thanks to the forums (the dry box for material by @ultiarjan was a real life saver), or the support from @MakershopFR who replaced the bent glass bed I received with my printer quickly.

     

    It's my first printer, still learning the ropes, sometimes doing stupid things, but I'm quite happy with the product and I think you will be too.

  5. Bonjour,

     

    Tout d'abord, je tiens a m'excuser si ma question a déjà une réponse sur le forum, mais j'ai cherché via la barre de recherche et via Google sans rien trouver.

     

    Je suis actuellement en train d'expérimenter avec des filaments non-UM, donc, à chaque fois, je crée des matériaux custom dans Cura, puis des profiles customs au fur et a mesure que je fais mes tests. Sauf que, pour une raison que je ne connais pas, je ne peut pas avoir a la fois un material custom et un profile custom dans CURA.

     

    Quand je sélectionne un material custom, CURA me met 'no profile available' dans la case 'profile', et le menu déroulant me dit 'not supported'. Et si j'essaye de créer un profile en ayant mon material custom sélectionné, il ne se passe rien, aucun profile n'est crée. Donc je dois choisir entre profil custom ou material custom, ce qui est assez embêtant car des informations manquent dans les deux cas. Par exemple, on ne peut pas régler la vitesse d'impression dans le material, et on n'a pas le calcul du cout d'impression via le profil.

     

    Si quelqu'un a une idée du pourquoi de la chose et une solution, je lui en serai extrêmement reconnaissant.

  6. Bien vu, j'avais pas fait assez attention aux lignes...

     

    8 minutes ago, electromu said:

    Peut être une astuce de possesseur d'UM3  --> ils font un raft en filament soluble et à la fin de l'impression ils mettent l'imprimante toute entière dans l'eau . Comme ça le print se décolle tout seul ;)

    :'D

  7. This looks quite nice, although, as someone who has only one printer right now, I do regret the fact that CURA doesn't automatically change the material when we change the spool on the printer, especially with Ultimaker sppolls that are recognized via the NFC.

    It was very useful for me, and saved me time from having to do it manually when I'm doing dual printing, and also saved me from having the printer throwing a fit because there's a mismatch between Cura and the printer.

    Any way you could put back the auto update for those of us who have only one printer? I understand why it's not really useful nor practical when you have several printers, but when you have only one, it's a time-saver.

    Thank you.

  8. I had a similar problem not too long ago. I managed to solve the problem by warming up the printcore for quite a long time, maybe half an hour, at the upper range of temperature for the filament stuck inside.

    At some point, it melted enough to start seeping out, forming like a liquid drop around the lower part of the printcore. Then I did several hot pull, pushing hard to force the stuck filament out, melting it little by little until it gave up at some point, I felt it, and then I did several hot pulls and cold pulls until the printcore was clean.

    I used filament of a different color for the hot pull, so I could see at which point what was being extruded was no longer the stuck filament but the one I used for the cleaning. Hope this helps.

  9. Excellente remarque. Il n'y a aucune précision à ce sujet sur les différents sites que j'ai consulter. Par contre, ce filament est flexible, un peu comme du TPU, et il me semble que ce n'est pas le cas pour les autres filaments phosphorescents?

  10. Je viens d'acheter ça: https://www.makershop.fr/cc-products/1196-reflect-o-lay-3mm.html pour tester.

    Quelqu'un à déjà eu de l'expérience avec ce filament ou un filament similaire?

    Il y a quelques conseils sur le sachet de transport:

    Print onto roughened capton or other glue sprays

    Print: 210°C

    Cold or up to 50°C platform

    Best reflective effect with low filament feed-rate

    Donc pas d'impression avec de l'ABS, par exemple, qui nécessite une température de 100°C+ pour la plateforme, et on prend son temps pour l'impression. J'ai réglé la vitesse d'impression a 40mm/s, on verra ce que ça va donner.

  11. J'ai vu beaucoup de réponses sur le forum et ailleurs, et peu de réponses utiles sur le site Ultimaker.

    Donc, juste pour être sur que je n'ai rien oublié, parmi les filaments Ultimaker, et les types de filaments en général:

    - PLA,

    - PVA,

    - Nylon,

    - TPU,

    sont les matériaux qui sont très sensibles à l’humidité, et doivent donc être protégés spécialement.

    Le reste (ABS, CPE et CPE+, PP, PC) a seulement besoin d'être stocké dans un endroit sec et à l'abri de la lumière, type un meuble fermé.

    J'ai bon?

  12. @BarryEgan I'd advise you to avoid Sketchup for 3D modeling. It's not made for that at the moment. The 3D files created by Sketchup have quite a lot of problems when converted in files that can be understood and read by 3D printers.

    Blender is very good, but it has a quite steep learning curve when you want to go beyond basic shapes. Fortunately, it also has tons of resources online and a thriving community able to help, as long as you are proactive and do a bit of research beforehand. Many of the questions a new user has have already been replied to, you just need to search in the various forums and sites dedicated to Blender.

    I'm not personally familiar with other programs, so I can't give you any advice on the rest.

  13. As the others said, Sketchup is quite bad for 3D printing.

    I've personally used Blender to create letters and I was able to print them on my UM3E without any problem.

    I could make your letters if you wish, it's easy for me in Blender. Or you can also download Blender (it's free) and try yourself! ^^ Though there's quite a learning curve in Blender, as much as there is in 3D printing I'd say.

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