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Brulti last won the day on February 20

Brulti had the most liked content!

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    Ultimaker S5
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  1. Brulti

    Unecessary Support Structure

    As @kmanstudios said: make sure that the nozzles are clean. I usually wipe them with a soft cloth when a printing is just finished, if I'm around the printer at that time, to remove all the little bits that can stick to them. You want the tip of the nozzles to be squeaky clean so it can reliably perform the leveling test. It's very strange that your Nylon behaves like this. I use UM standard settings for Nylon and it works like a charm. I've always had a bit of stringing with Nylon, though it's also very dependent on the shape of the part being printed. To print reliably, Nylon requires a brim or a raft for big pieces. No need for glue or for an enclosure, using an enclosure might cause troubles. I'm not too sure what other advices I could give you...
  2. Brulti

    PVA help

    I store my spools in a big plastic box with a lid. It's not hermetically sealed, but it's closed. And I've one of those big desiccant packet made for absorbing moisture from the living room or a bedroom. It keeps humidity inside the box around 20-25%, and it did absorb the excess moisture from the roll of PVA, meaning I could use it and finish said roll later without troubles.
  3. Or leave it for a couple weeks on a box with some desiccant. I saved a roll this way.
  4. That print looks nice and clean now, and I'm glad you found the problem. As Kman says, PVA is tricky. Though I guess that particular roll of filament was defective from the start, it happens.
  5. Brulti

    PVA help

    56% humidity might be a bit too much. I remember being told, when I had troubles with PVA, to keep it under 55% humidity. The silica gel packs are good for transport, but not for long term use, you should buy some, or something else, with more capacity to absorb ambient moisture when you print and for storing the roll of PVA.
  6. Brulti

    Unecessary Support Structure

    Nylon + PVA in an enclosure works like a charm. I printed enough parts in Nylon to know it does. 😉
  7. Brulti

    Don't try this at home?

    I'd be interested to see the results as well. Perhaps you can protect your IR camera by putting a sheet of transparent plastic in front of it, like what is used for the enclosures of many 3d printers?
  8. Brulti

    Tips for bed adhesion

    I see. I haven't printed many things that fit what you described, but this usually had some sort of support or the mickey ears for the sharp corners.
  9. Brulti

    Don't try this at home?

    I took a look at the technical sheets for UM materials and the max temperatures they can hold. PLA can go up to 50°C, Nylon can go up to 80°C, CPE+ to 100°C, PP to 105°C, PC to 110°C. From personal experience, I wouldn't recommend ABS, as it has a tendency to just break if you go past a certain stress level. It doesn't crack, just breaks in pieces, so Im' not sure it would be able to endure even a low speed lathe.
  10. Brulti

    Tips for bed adhesion

    I never needed glue for PLA. I use UM PLA, it stick very well on it's own on the glass bed of my UM3E. Did you had trouble with PLA that were solved with using PET tape? Do you use UM PLA or another brand?
  11. Brulti

    Da Clumsy Noob Goes Batty

    We all bow in front of the creations of the madman and his printers.
  12. Brulti

    Don't try this at home?

    A few months ago, I've printed a chain guide for a motorcycle in Nylon for a customer. Looking around online, I found out that this was a replacement part for an old model of motorcycle which isn't in production anymore, and parts are not made nor available. My customer wasn't the first one to print this chain guide in Nylon. I'm not sure what kind of heat is generated by a motorcycle chain when it moves, but I guess it does generate quite a lot, and experience by those people shows that Nylon can handle it long-term. That plus the constant high-speed rubbing as the chain moves. So, I'd say Nylon has a good chance of being able to handle it. Though, of course, as was suggested above, do a small tests scale first just to make sure.
  13. Brulti

    Loss of accuracy.

    Hello everyone, I just did maintenance on my printer (grease, check axes, belt tension and so on) and I ran a couple test prints to compare with the one I did the last time, in June, and there seems to be a slight problem: as you can see in the picture below, the Z on top of the black cube on right cube is clear and has very sharp corners. This cube was printed in June after my previous maintenance. The orange cube and the black one on the left were printed today and the Z is much less defined. I had the same problem before doing the maintenance, as I was testing my 0.6 solex hardcore. The cubes in the pictures have been printed a standard 0.4 UM printcore. The ones printed with the solex 0.6 hardcore show the same problem, but worst, I guess because the diameter of the printhead is bigger. I'm not too sure what is causing this or how to solve it, any help from the community would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  14. Brulti

    Tips for bed adhesion

    After spending a couple days 'playing' with ABS and various sticky stuff, I will vote hands down for the UHU glue stick like what is shipped with the UM3E. It may stick a tiny bit less than all the spray stuff, but at least it doesn't hold on the part for the dear life when out of the printer. The bond between the glue stick and the ABS part breaks when cooling down, and I know when I hear a series of 'crack' sounds that the part is coming off on it's own. All the samples of spray glue 'special 3d printer' that I got with various purchases of filaments and such proved to stick way too much, and were hard to clean even with warm water and soap. Glue stick dissolves even in cold water with a tiny bit of soap.
  15. Brulti

    Post your latest print!

    Wow, retractions on the clear part must have been a ... Erm. You know what I mean. 😅

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