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brianskyze

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  1. .pdf output would be perfect. Yet for building a virtual database, .txt or .csv would be even better, because they could be easily manipulated I was hoping this option already exists, I'm just unable to find it. Well, we might see it in a newer version of cura. Regard, Brian
  2. Hello, I'm wondering if there is any way to output print settings from Cura to a text file of any kind? As I am experimenting with printing TPU and ABS I would like to print out on paper my settings for every 3d print, so I could establish a hardcopy "Printing log" that I could reference for further 3d prints. I am aware that I could just do a print screen, but it would be super helpful if I could output settings from Cura to txt file so I could manipulate the data easier. Thanks for your help, Regards, Brian
  3. I have struggled with manual levelling as well. After a bit trial and error (and a lot of forum searching) I have found a sufficient method for manual levelling. Sice I have dropped the auto levelling completely. 1. Start manual level mode. 2. Before rotating the knob to set the z distance of far back position to 1mm, loosen the back screw for a significant amount (let say at least 2 to 3mm - just eyeball it) 3. Rotate the knob and set the z distance of far back position to 1mm. DO NOT EYEBALL 1MM use some "1mm calibrating card*" and raise it until you feel a bit of resistance. 4. For the other two positions use the same 1mm calibrating card and you should have enough space to loosen the remaining two screws until you feel a bit of resistance on your card. 4.1 If you don't have enough distance to loosen the front screws go to STEP 2 and loosen the back screw a bit more. That should give you enough distance for STEP 4. When executing the second round/fine tuning of manual levelling do this: 5. For fine levelling of far back point use provided UM calibration card. This is now important! Instead of tuning the distance with the screw but turn the knob - it will raise/lower the bed, and set the z distance with turning the knob until you feel a bit of resistance on your calibration card. Again, turn the knob instead loosening the screw. This is a software glitch on the UM3. 6. Move to the front two positions and set your distance using UM calibration card. Tighten/loosen the screws until you feel a little bit of resistance on your calibration card. 7. Follow the instructions and set the Z height of the bed as instructed by your UM. This should give you perfectly levelled heat bed. Turn off active levelling and test your settings on a small print. If you have any questions just ask *1mm calibrating card I made from stacking 3 business cards on top of each other and proofed it with a calliper. Use whatever you can find that is 1mm thick. I would recommend some sort of softer material like cardboard. EDIT: If your screws are loosened all the way then in STEP 2 tighten the screw before rotating the knob to set 1mm distance.
  4. Well, it has been over three months and I finally got my UM back from the reseller. I was correct, the front panel was bent therefore replaced. Now it seats perfectly levelled on my desk, I just need to do some big area test prints to ensure it has resolved all my problems. Regards, Brian
  5. Thank you all. I have contacted my reseller. Will keep you updated. Regards, Brian
  6. gr5 thank you for your help! I have already tried to loosen all the screws and tried to brute force the frame down. No effect whatsoever. The print inside the triangular area of the screws is decent but far from expectations from 3000+ euro device. I have encountered problems when I print two pieces that should interlock by screwing mechanism. The "bolt" was tilted off the Z-axis and they didn't fit. First I thought my print settings were bad and I tried a few times but didn't work out. I am aware that frame does not have to be levelled, but I did my adaptive mount to eliminate one of the possible failures. My main concern is that the front plate of the frame is actually machined wrong. Because the difference between left and the right vertical edge is 2mm. Meaning that the front plate corners aren't all at 90°. I'm not sure if I understand word GANTRY correctly. Is this the metal rod the print head uses as a guide? Or is this the metal rod driven by the motors? Thanks, Brian
  7. I had the same problem running on 1800p resolution. For me, it was a long trial and error for an easy fix. If you are running on windows right click on Cura shortcut -> Properties -> Compatibility -> TICK the box: Override high DPI scaling behaviour -> From drop down just beneath choose: Scaling performed by: SYSTEM It also worked for AutoCAD and Creative Cloud by Adobe. That should fix it. Or at least it did for me
  8. Well, I have problems with my UM3 frame aswell. I'm a beginner and up until now, I did a few test prints on a smaller scale (let's say 5cm3). But I wanted to print some bigger models since I'm using it for architecture and I will need almost full print volume. Starting my big volume printing with a model of a famous bird feeder that can be found over at Thingiverse. When it started printing brim plate I have found out that my first layer is not the right height. On the front side, the PLA didn't stick on the bed and in the back, there was almost no material on the bed. I have realised my bed is out of level although I did automatic levelling before printing. (Cura first layer height setting was standard .27mm) Assuming auto levelling does not work properly I have decided that I will level it manually. Since UM is sort of foolproof it should work smoothly, but it didn't. I have struggled with screws turning for a full hour incorporating all of the ideas found on this forum (especially turning the wheel instead of the screw at the precise levelling at the back of the plate). Didn't work at all. Whenever I've started automatic levelling right after it has failed. What I did is I have designed UM3 dial gauge holder to manually and accurately level the bed. Again small scale print of my gauge holder was more or less successful. I have levelled the bed with a gauge and proved it with the help of spirit level. It was levelled. I have also proved my glass if its straight and it was. I fire up the auto levelling it fails again. I'm freaking out. I head over to the forums, there are users reporting that Z-axis alignment is off and that they change .gcode before every print (I don't know about this procedure, so I decide to drop it). So being a little encouraged by the forum I sincerely believed auto levelling is a complete rubbish. I head over to my UM, fire up my print of the bird's feeder and I encounter the same problem. The base level should be .27mm in height but it was ranging from .13 - .43mm, (I should mention the brim was curved and there were no rough angles). I have also tried to fine tune the bed while printing the brim. And in 20minutes time it was unsuccessful. Totally freaked out I'm starting thinking my table where my UM is places is completely off balance. Today I build a small support tray with adjustable legs. I fix it on my table, I spirit level it, it is perfectly aligned. Clearly feeling good about it I put my UM3 on top. And this is what I see: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1s-4fSrCqzmemsdyknm3XTxU19BoiFVn_ My UM3 frame is bent :angry: A closer look: https://drive.google.com/open?id=13SzAq54JS8Lfj174qYrRGtyV-JlVHBLx The front right corner is 5mm in the air. And one could see with his bare eye that it's off. So I went to read this thread, tried to loosen the frame screws, didn't do much. (note: I have bought UM3 assembled) I have taken some measurements to support my theory of bent frame. Front frame plate_ difference in height between left and right vertical edge: 2mm (like it is cut wrong) Front frame plate_ difference in diagonals: 8mm Housing plate up to Y-axis guide hindge_ difference in distance between left and right: 3mm All measurements were made with high precision tools that we use in the firm. Capilers, dial gauge, laser distance measures, ultra-sensitive spirit levels. So there is little possibility of a measurement error. I am highly convinced my main printer frame is bent. Do you have any ideas what can I do? Have some experienced the same stuff? I'm sorry for a long post, but this is my first time posting and since I'm just a beginner I don't know what are the focus data to provide you with a good picture of my problems. On the other hand, I'm sorry for my rough English (I'm not native). Thanks for any kind of help! Cheers, Brian
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