Dragon2781
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Posts posted by Dragon2781
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Still default settings
Benchy 100% scale
Print time 02h02min
I still have this strange artifact on both sides of the ship.
I have a minimum of stringing, that is ok.
I really hate this ghosting effect. What can I do about that?
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27 minutes ago, Brulti said:
You can deactivate the autoleveling completely, so the printer will just print and not do the 'push the printhead against the glass' thing at the start.
Hi,
like I said I have other experiences. Yes, you can deactivate the automatic measuring at the start of the print but the active leveling while printing is still active untill you do a manual leveling.
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44 minutes ago, Brulti said:
I've printed with about half the colors available with UM PLA, including black, and the only time I had problems was when the spools soaked up too much humidity.
I wondering if my UM3 is broken or do you have other expectaisions than me.
This is my topic to identify issues and get help to remove them:
@nallath This are default settings and the results are horrible!
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10 minutes ago, Brulti said:
Are you storing your spools in a dry place?
Yes, that's my Drybox:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756012
@nallath thank you for the response!
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Thank you @nallath and @gr5 for the explaination. I have bad experiences with the tower. The PVA dont stick to it and carries over onto the printed object.
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I actually printing the Benchy in 100% but it takes 2h....
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PRINT #00
Default Cura 3.2.1 Settings
Auto Leveling ON (Always)
Latest Testing-Firmware installed
Cube 100% scale
Printing time 00h32min
Benchy 50% scale
Printing time 00h30min
Now I like to identify and name the problems.
Maybe you find even more than me.
Cube_01_Bad_Infill:
I identified a really bad Infill. It's holey like a beehive.
Cube_02/03_Corners:
All the corners arround all sides are bulging.
Cube_04_Wobble:
On the opposite side of the X is a strange wobble.
Cube_05_Lines:
There are two lines arround the cube. Maybe missing layers?
Benchy_01_Stringing:
Some stringing, I think it gets worse when I scale it to 100%
Benchy_02_Artifacts:
On one side there are strange artifacts. It's hard to say but I think that they are all over the Benchy.
Benchy_03_Offset:
The whole chimney has like a crack and is moved over.
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Thanks for the links,
I already decided to print something small to have low printing times and not that much waste of material.
I'll print a calibration cube at 100%
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865
... and a 3D Benchy at 50% scale.
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21 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:
But one machine, or even a few, is not the whole line.
Absolutely right
That's why I'm here and ask for experiences and help to get rid of the issues.
QuoteBut it must suck something fierce to be the unlucky soul that gets something like this that does not work correctly and that must lead to a lot of frustrations.
I'm not yet frustrated, just disappointed. I still believe that I can get help to fix that issues.
If all the help still leads to no good results -> THEN I'll be frustrated
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Thank you @kmanstudios for your response.
I will activate it again and make some tests and pictures over the weekend.
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Hi guys,
I'm a little bit disappointed with the print quality of my UM3.
I'm new to the 3D printing topic (since start of this year) and I'm looking for some experienced UM3 professionals here.
I made some adjustments in the settings because of bad infill and other issues I have no name for.
But now I want to set everything to default and start from scratch together with your help guys.
I will print a testobject with default settings and make pictures to identify the problems.
Then I want to get rid of the problems one at a time.
My first question before we start: What test object should I use?
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Hi,
18 minutes ago, SandervG said:Do you have a photo of what you considered to be Z wobble?
Sadly I have no picture. I fear to activate the auto leveling again. My bed is leveled perfect now and you should not change a running system....
Well I want to open a new topic to fine tune my settings. Therefore I will set everything to default and start from scratch. I will activate the auto leveling again and make pictures of course.If everyone here is using the auto leveling and nobody has a problem then something is wrong on my side...
QuoteYou can define in what frequency you what active leveling to happen, which can also be never. I.e., turned off.
But not during a print. You have to decide if you want to change your active leveling frequency before your print starts.
Can you elaborate what you mean that you have to make a manual leveling to overwrite the saved alignment. What do you mean by overwrite it?
My theory is the Auto Leveling consists of two functions.
1st the automatic Measuring. You can activate this in the menu and you can set the frequency (before every print).
2nd the active Leveling. You can not activate/deactivate this. Once the automatic Measuring detects a slight dealignement of the bed the active Leveling will correct the bed hight while printing so the printed object is always aligned to the bed.
When you activate the automatic Measuring the position/alignement of the bed gets saved and the active Leveling will always adjust the bed hight while printing.
Even when you deactivate the automatic Measuring before the print, the active Leveling is still active because it thinks that the bed is oblique.
You first have to do a manual Measuring (Leveling) to overwrite the saved position of the bed. Now it thinks that you aligned the bed correct and deactivates the active Leveling while printing.
... that's my theory.
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Hallo zusammen,
ich bin neu im Forum und auch relativ neu im 3D Druck Thema.
Ich habe mich schon im englischen Bereich vorgestellt, wollte das aber auch noch hier tun.
Ich heiße Jens und habe seit Anfang des Jahres einen UM3.
Angefangen habe ich mit einem Wanhao D6 an Weihnachten 2017. Da das Ding nach zwei Tagen kaputt war und ich nur Probleme hatte, war ich so dermaßen frustriert, dass ich mir den UM3 bestellt habe.
Ich bin nicht der Typ der gerne an den Settings rumspielt bis er mal akzeptable Ergebnisse bekommt.
Ich habe jetzt Geld ausgegeben um sofort und beständig gute Ergebnisse zu bekommen..... leider ist das nicht der Fall, weshalb ich mich hier angemeldet habe.
Ich hoffe, dass mich die Profis hier etwas an die Hand nehmen und mit mir zusammen die Feineinstellungen vornehmen, die man leider doch noch machen muss trotz NFC und hauseigenes UM-Filament... *grrrrr*
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Thank you
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Ah the Auto-Leveling Z wobble Topic is still not activ because it needs an approval by an admin.
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14 minutes ago, korneel said:
...he fails to mention this is a known issue for the first batch of Um3s...
He added a text over the video mentioning that.
14 minutes ago, korneel said:you can clean the cores under maintenance, then clean print cores. it is all explained there
OK I will take a look, thank you.
14 minutes ago, korneel said:you don't need the bed from filafarm. it will cause more issues then it solves. i print with every kind of filament and have never had the need to use anything else then the glass bed, 3dlac or printafix. it's a waste of money and will make your life more difficult.
I like the idea to get the object off the hot bed by bending it. At the moment I use cold water to get the print off the got glas bed and then I need to use the 3DLAC again for every print.
14 minutes ago, korneel said:bad z wobble.. you have to explain that.. what is the error message?
There is no error message. Please go to the linked topic, there I explain everything. Let us discuss that there please.
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Please let us discuss that points in the topics, not here.
12 minutes ago, korneel said:1)have you updated to the latest firmware and latest cura? especially the PVA in early versions of Cura and firmware wasn't that great.. with the new versions I have never had that issues anymore.. as a note though I really hate the standard ultimaker PLA filament that is included with the printer.. the silver is just sucky. try ultimaker white or black, you'll get much better results.
Yes, I have Cura 3.2.1 and the latest firmware.
12 minutes ago, korneel said:2)z wobble? do you mean differences in height? i can't see your picture so i don't know what the issues is..
I don't want to activate the auto leveling again because the bed is leveld now and I have good results. That's why I can not make photos of the problem.
12 minutes ago, korneel said:3)the included profiles are the default profiles that will get you the best overall quality. your mileage may vary per file that you print.. there is no supplier that can give you a profile that will work and give the best results with every object you print..
I thougt the profiles depend on the Filament. Temperatures, Speeds etc. You say it depends on the object? I don't understand that.
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2 minutes ago, korneel said:
I would consider that workhorses...
Yes, I agree. Of course there are companies using the UM3 like that.
I was talking from Youtube content creators. I like to get some experiences from professionals while watching videos.
2 minutes ago, korneel said:-do a printcore cleaning on a regular basis
Do you mean the 'Atomic' thin? Or how do you clean the Cores?
2 minutes ago, korneel said:-maintain the rods in your printer rigourously. use synthetic based oil with PTFE for the axes, don't use the sewing machine oil. the synthetic will last a lot longer and won't leave debris.
I did that with the included oil...
2 minutes ago, korneel said:-make sure the glass beds are clean. I only use 3Dlac spray every now and then to ensure there is always a film on them. I use PrintaFix for PP material.
I use 3DLAC too but I want to buy a bed from Filafarm.
2 minutes ago, korneel said:-stay away from ABS. it sucks. there are better materials and it will save you a lot of headaches.
Yes, without door and cover on top it makes no sense.
2 minutes ago, korneel said:-set bed leveling to always
I have bad Z wobble with that.
Thank you for your tips!
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15 minutes ago, SandervG said:
... could you tell us a little bit more about your print settings and could you share some photo's of your prints?
What do you expect of your Ultimaker and its prints? Did you do any maintenance or modifications already?
Hi,
of course I will make some pictures of my prints and my settings and open an other topic for the fine tuning.
My expectations are very high for a 3.6K Printer and I have to say that I'm disappointed at the moment.
Yes the overall print quality is ok with some little spots I have to fine tune but the most important selling functionalities I can not use.
- I can not use the Auto-Leveling because of Z wobble:
- I see no sense in using the expensive NFC UM-Filament when I still have to do adjustments in the settings:
- I have problems with the wasteful usage of PVA support and the gaps in the PLA it leaves behind.
With all that problems I could buy a Prusa i3 MK3 with intelligent Failure-Features and really quiet motors for 1/4 of the price.
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Hi,
When buying the UM3 I was excited for the NFC function.
I thought: 'Wow, I never had to make dozens of test prints to find the correct settings for the expensive UM-Filament.'
Right? Ultimaker knows their Filament and their Printers and will set the settings right on the spot to get P.E.R.F.E.C.T. results!
Wrong! Why do I have a fancy NFC chip functionality when I get the same settings for every UM-PLA Filament?
I have good results with the UM-PLA Green and White but e.g. Black is horrable with underextrusion (I think that's the cause of the problem).
I have massive stringing inside of the object with every UM-PLA and the infill is very holey at the defaut 70mm/s. I had to drop it to 30mm/s to get a propper infill.
What are your experiences? Is there something wrong with my UM3?
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Hi,
I started 3D printing with a Wanhao D6.
I was very frustrated because I was not able to get the first layer to stick due to my missing experiences in manual leveling the bed.
When I ordered the UM3 one week later I was soooo happy to get a auto-leveling function!
I first leveld the bed manually and activated the 'auto leveling' with the 'before every print' setting.
As excited as I was, I watched the leveling process.... but I noticed that the nozzle pressed down on the front of the bed and bended it slightly.
Well the first layer sticked very good but there was a continuous crackle sound while printing.
When I layed my finger gently on the Z thread-rod I was able to feel a tiny jump every time with the crackle sound.
So I think the sound was the Z axis adjusting the bed automatically while printing.
Well the object had bad Z wobble so I tried to deactivate the auto leveling.
Sadly there is no direct option for that!
I learned that there is a difference between the frequent measuring process and the auto leveling while printing.
The UM3 saves the alignment of the bed after he measured it. Even when you deactivate the measureing process you still get the auto leveling while printing.
I first had to deactivate the measuring process and then make a manual leveling to overwrite the saved alignment and to deactivate the auto leveling while printing.
Have I overlooked something?
Since I deactivated it, I have no Z wobble anymore.... but I'm very disappointed and upset to have spend money on a cool function and not be able to use it.
Every time I see a review video on youtube mentioning the 'COOL' auto leveling function I get goose bumps!
What are your experiences? Did I something wrong? Is there something wrong with my hardware?
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Hi,
I'm new to the 3D printing topic and I have some questions.
My first question is:
Why is the PVA support incasing the object and is it possible to deactivate this?
When I use the normal PLA as a support material, it is supporting only the overhangs.
But when I use PVA as support, the whole object gets wrapped in it, even on spots where no overhands exist.
The PVA is very expensive. Is Cura intentionally wasting PVA so Ultimaker is selling more of it?
I have the problem that little flakes of the PVA gets between the PLA layers.
After all PVA dissolved in water I end up with little gaps/holes in the object.
If the PVA would be used like normal support this would not happen.
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Hi,
I'm new to this forum and I first want to introduce myselfe.
My name is Jens and I'm from Germany. I'm totally new to the 3D printing topic.
I started with a Wanhao D6 at Christmas 2017.
Sadly this piece of shit (sorry) broke after 2 days and I noticed that I'm not that kind of guy who forever wants to play arround with settings to finally get a decent print.
I was sooooo frustrated that I ordered an Ultimaker 3 one week later in the hope that I get good results without fiddeling arround.
Well.... kind of...
I'm here to get some help with the fine tuning, maybe the experienced guys are able to see even more problems than myselfe.
I want to get a feeling on what is possible and what is acceptable after spending 3.6K.
I watched many Youtube videos about 3D printing since I dived into this topic.
3D Printing Nerd, Thomas Sanladerer, Maker's Muse, RCLifeOn...
There are many content creaters owning a Ultimaker 3 but not using it as a workhorse and I'm wondering why?
I have so many questions on little things but there are only some Reviews...no usefull videos about long term experiences, settings etc...
What is your opinion?
Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
@pdrinkut this are the default acceleration settings. What should I do exactly?