Smithy
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Posts posted by Smithy
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Not if you only want to have it on the X axis, but you can adjust it for X & Y with "First layer horizontal expansion" and set it to -0.2 or -0.3.
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Das ist gut zu hören, aber je nach Objekt wirst du für ABS schon noch etwas am Glas brauchen wie UHU Stick oder Dimafix, 3DLac Spray. UM ABS ist aber nicht so anfällig für Warping, aber nicht wundern wenn du einmal eine andere Marke druckst.
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Generell passt es bei mir auch, aber ich habe auch schon merkwürdige Phänomene gehabt beim Skalieren. Geholfen hat dann ein Neustart von Cura.
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Not all settings are shown in the panel on the right side, but you can use the search field to find hidden settings or switch to show all settings, which I don't recommend.
When you enable support, then you have a setting available which is called "Enable Support Brim". You can find it, by just enter brim in the search field and you should see the setting in the support section.
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There are some settings which you could use to fine tune to get better results for that objects.
You could try to:
- Set "Slicing Tolerance" to exclusive
- Set horizontal expansion to a negative value
- Set Outer before Inner Walls
- Reduce Flow a little bit
I am sure there are some more settings, but try one by one and check the result afterward before changing the next one.
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21 minutes ago, nallath said:
Did you also change the GUID of your custom material? If you duplicated it from PLA it will still have the same GUID as generic PLA.
Good point, thanks @nallath , I updated my post and added this hint.
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Great, thanks for the feedback and we are happy that your printer is running again.
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I have checked my history, here it is : https://image.online-convert.com/convert-to-svg
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When the printer asks for override you probably have not ABS in the field material type of your custom profile.
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There are also online image converters to convert an image to a svg file. Just google for image convert svg and you get a bunch of such services.
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Hmm? not really at the moment, but I guess you are right, the printer will heat up but nothing happens and then the firmware throws an error. So check again the head. Maybe a contact problem between the head and the cores? But unusually that this would happen with both cores.
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You may want to check this thread with more background information:
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Check also if the front fan is running. The fan could be blocked by some filament strings or other plastics and if the fan is not running, which cools down the upper part of the hot end, you can also get an error.
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I fully understand both of you, there are two opinions and both are correct in my point of view. So why not discuss the topic itself, which could also be helpful for others searching for this problem.
I have seen that someone created a workaround for Cura and the space mouse (I think it was on Thingiverse). I haven't checked deeply how the workaround actually works, but maybe give it a try @P3D ?
And as far as I understood, @kmanstudios has also a way to use Cura with a 3D mouse, which works well for him. So I would be interested in your workflow.
I don't have a 3D mouse and use just my touchpad on the notebook, which works fine for the few technical parts I create in Fusion 360, but when changing to Cura it is hard to switch to completely other shortcuts to move, rotate and so on, and they are in my opinion not so intuitive than in Fusion.
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Correct, because it is very easy to damage the print core.
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Hi and welcome!
your STL file is probably not watertight, you can check it in Cura with the x-ray view and check if there are any red areas. (x-ray view is in the same menu as solid and layer view)
Blender is additionally not the best choice for such models, you will get better results with Tinkercad or Fusion 360 (both are free).
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You could try to delete the printer from Cura and add it again.
And/or check if the material diameter is correct, should be 2.85 and not 1.75.
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No, I need no picture of the grinded filament, but was not so clear from your first post, that you mean the filament.
When you slice your own object, do you use just a default profile or do you change something in the settings?
Grinding is normally something like a clogged nozzle or feeder problem, but when you say the presliced files are fine, then it should be something on the software side.
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Hi and welcome!
Can you post a picture what you mean? And which Cura version are you using?
You should not need "special" profiles, Cura works great out of the box with the UM 2+
What do you mean with, it works great from SD card? You mean when you print the pre-sliced files from that card?
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Hi and welcome!
You have probably the problem with the extrusion, like feeder, Bowden tube, clogged nozzle, PTFE coupler or something like this and you try now to compensate this with a higher temperature.
You are printing too hot, so you should go back to normal temps for PLA and then we have to find your problem why nothing is extruded. Check first your nozzle if it is clogged or if the PTFE coupler looks strange.
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I think the issue you see is that you have support blockers at the bottom, but you need support for top overhang. And in that case, it looks like, that the blockers for the bottom will be ignored. I played a little bit with your model and the blockers but also got not the expected result. I have seen some days ago a similar issue, without blockers but with the support angle setting where normally no support should be generated but did because of another surface which needed support above.
I am not sure if this is a bug or if there is another reason for that behavior. Maybe some else has some more ideas?
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Welcome Lucas,
I will be much easier if you could post some pictures and also which printer you are using.
Have a clean your z-screw thoroughly?
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You know I like your models, but these are absolutely awesome. The color mix is great but I also like the gold angel, the color fits perfectly to the shape. wow!
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That' bad, especially with a long print job.
Was it an older spool? Because PLA gets more brittle with the time.
Ultimaker 3 - build plate
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hi Barbara - welcome on board!
Regarding your first question, the heating element is underneath the aluminum plate below the glass. So when the bed is heated up the heating element heats up the aluminum plate which then heats up the glass.
For the second question, I don't understand what you mean or what you want to build. But regarding weight, I have not seen any numbers or recommendations yet about how much weight can be put on the build plate, but I would not go much higher than the weight of the usual models. Some users pause their print and put some weight (sand) inside the model, so a little bit more is possible, but you should avoid that the bed is hanging lower in the front than in the back due too much weight.