Carla_Birch
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Posts posted by Carla_Birch
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Hi @Tigerbeard
When i use PVA support i personally put into warm water around 30c (I use a heated ultra sonic cleaner) and after a few min i pull off the thick of the PVA and put in back in and use the ultra sonic cleaner itself with fresh clean water in in heated when its almost all gone to remove the final bits that like you say seem to blob up in places.
Some people use a fish tank with an heater and air bubble filter to keep the water moving and warm, so maybe something to look in to?
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Hi,
Yes the heated bed should be in the range of 50c to 60c it really helps out.
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Cura as told me the printers have a update, but both are still printing right now so i not been able to check the printers themself. Sometimes the updates get pushed live before they have been able to post the update here about it. Personally i hang on till i have seen the notes before i update my printers.
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Hi,
That’s really is down to what you need it to hold up to. Is a wide range out and some are good in one and weak in another.
Eg do you need shock load, or hold up to heat. Does it need to flex a little or be ridged. -
I don’t personally use glue sticks but I know most that do rub lines across the print area and then use a damp rag to make a thin even layer of the glue across the print area.
Without seeing the print settings it’s hard to say as you want to keep the heated bed on still at around 50-60c and then the first layer height should be bigger than the rest.
outside of the settings the other factors for printers without auto levelling is to make sure the build plate is level and that the right gap between it and the nozzle is set.
but the fact you have the headed bed off is likely the main factor, so set it back to 60c even more so with long and flat parts
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I don't think that setting would help with filament that can have a bigger than normal range to its size. The setting is more so thin lines in a model can be printing faster than normal by auto editing the line width for them.
You got to keep in mind that the slicer and printer both have no way at all in knowing just how the size of the filament is changing as it prints.
Persoanlly it's likely best to use the filament on prints where size don't matter to much or for supports if you got a dual nozzle printer and don't use PVA or anything like that for the supports.
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I have personally replaced the nozzle on 2 of my print cores now with the ones @Enigma_M4 said about above from 3djake made by micro-swiss and you really have to be careful what you are doing, so that you don't break the heatbreak. But please keep in mind that it really is a high risk that you might break it in trying.
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Hi,
To be honest with PLA and a glass heated bed you should not need any blue tape at all, if anything you are making it less likely to stick. Just rub some PVA glue on the glass in a thin even layer, or use one of the many sprays you can get like 3D Lac what i personally use.
Long as you have got your bed level right and first layer settings right, you will not have any problems at all.
If there any reason why you have picked to put blue tape on the glass?
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Hi,
If you could post your settings for the supports that would be helpful in seeing if any the settings are wrong or not first.
Also it's always good to upload the .3mf file from Cura, you can make this file via ( File - Save ) after you have added your .stl into Cura, this will let people see your settings and .stl and cross check settings.
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I personally use 3mm also at times and i make the hole small at like 2.5mm and then screw in the bolt a little and back it out and then go again to clean the tread of the bolt to stop it becoming thread bond, what if happens risks stripping the thread thats been cut into the plastic.
I also have tap set but i found the taps like to just spin around more than just cut the thread in plastic.
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Hi,
Have you checked out the GitHub page yet to see if it’s got the information you need?
You can find it here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Plus
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Making the most out of the S5 build size. Cloud buster sword from Final Fantasy 7 remake that I printed for a friend.
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They are not that sensitive for sure. The resin is 405nm photosensitive resin and and when printing you taking 40 watt led uv lights taking around 12 sec to cure the resin.
So you can more than easy handle the resin in a bright room. But you only really need to expose the resin when you fill or empty the vat. Most printed have UV protection panels on the prints.
But as always better not to place the printer somewhere where you get direct sunlight.
I personally used my FDM printer and printed a lid so the vat so when not in use its covered, but you can easy keep most resins in the printer for weeks on end no problems.
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1 hour ago, eltell1w said:
Hi I am new to 3d printing i have a ender 3 pro, and i have printed a sink strainer for my first print and i want to print another profile from thingiverse and i cannot get the profile into cura to splice it any info please
Do you have a link to what you are trying to slice? It could be that the file is not a file type that is supported.
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Hi @TrentexTech
If you have not already done so I would try cleaning the print cores as you might have a part blockage that’s making the feeder slip and dig into the filament what would make it slip more.
Also with how that’s marked up I would also clean the feeder out also as you will likely have all bit of filament inside the feeder what can make problems also.
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Hi @PharmDDan
You don't need to adjust your print bed height after the first layer, In Cura under the Quality settings, adjust the setting "Initial Layer Height" you have it matching the normal layer height and its better to have it set bigger so it pushes down to the print bed more for the first layer. A good setting for this would be 0.20 mm
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Hi @Grindyloww2
In Cura under the "Material" settings, you will see a setting for "Standby Temperature", if you set this to match your printing temperature or keep it close to it for both nozzles via swapping between the nozzle tabs and editing the setting for both, it will keep the temperature up matching the printing temperature.
Note this setting might be hidden from view so you will need to search for it via the search bar or click the menu button next to the search bar and pick all to display all settings.
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Hi,
If you could save and upload a .3mf project file from Cura please that would let us see just what settings you are using. Can do this via going to File and picking Save.
But as you say it’s printing WAY faster than a print with another slicer using same settings then I’m going take a guess the other slicer makes use of mm/min print speeds, where as Cura makes use of mm/s speeds what’s mm a sec so that means you need to divide the speed value by 60 that you are using from the other slicer.
So if you got a speed setting of 3600 in the other slicer that becomes 60 in Cura.
But again this is just a guess to what as happened with having not seen any the settings, if this is not the case please still upload the .3mf file so can take a look.
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Hi,
I’m going to guess you have downloaded but then on install it’s saying it’s being blocked and to contact the dev. If so all you need to do it the following.
After you have tired to install Cura go to System Preferences, click Security & Privacy, then click General and you should see a Open Anyway button, just click that and then open as normal Cura.
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Hi,
Could you please upload the project file from cura, to do this load your model up in cura with the settings you are using and then go to file - save and save the .3mf file and upload it to here.
That way we can see just what you are trying to do and just what settings you are using what can help us see any errors or mistakes much better.
It kinda sounds and looks like you might be printing with a raft going by the pattern you have on the bottom of the print, under "Build Plate Adhesion" settings what do you have the "Build Plate Adhesion Type" set to?
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2 hours ago, ahoeben said:
Maybe if you upload a .g and a .gx file somewhere, we could have a look if it is something that can be easily implemented.
This is a .gx file that flashforge printers use, sliced in the flashprint slicer, dunno if this will help.
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Hi,
If it's brand new and you have already tried reseating the printhead cable and you still get the error, then i would contat your reseller who you got the printer from with it being brand new.
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Click on the number 2 nozzle tab and you see that PVA prints much slower than you can print PLA at with PVA being around 35 mm/s and PLA being more 70 mm/s range.
You can print with PLA supports still and swap the floor and roof of the supports to PVA, but only do this if the supports are in places you can remove the PLA from.
On the number 1 nozzle tab set up your supports more like this in the image below (note the support density % is high so the PLA supports give the PVA a base to print on, but i have gradual support infill steps set to 2 so only the top 1mm of the support is 50%)
But in your case with how fine the model looks to be doing the above might not be the best because sometimes the PVA might not stick to the PLA supports right. But like i say the main factor to the time jump is the speed you print PVA and it's not something i would personally make faster because the higher risk of the supports failing.
Also on the amount of support PVA supports add's a 3mm support horizontal expansion, what basically means the supports are 3mm wider, also the support angle is 45 for PVA where PLA is 60
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If you have coasting turned on the z seam shows up much much more, so it could be that you have it turned on in the latest version and not in 3.6
Firmware 5.7.3 released for S-line printers
in Firmware
Posted
Yeah it would be good if the app could pull the data and display it, save having to exit the app and load up the wed site interface.