Carla_Birch
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Posts posted by Carla_Birch
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The only time i have had this problem was after i picked to try a print again from the printer after i had cancelled a print, but it was only a one off and it because stopped the print after only a few min.
All my files i send via cloud and i have never had it apart from that once.
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Hi,
What are the printing settings for your PVA as in temp/speed and layer heights?
When i use PVA its cleaner than that and i would think it would be dry with how you are drying it out and then putting into the material station, i personally dry at 45c for about 8-10 hour.
Maybe you are over drying the PVA and its becoming to dry to bend and its then dragging in the bowden tubes from the material station to the S5 print core and thats whats giving the ER65 error, i don't personally own the material station for my S5's so its just a guess based on a problem i had in the past with to dry PVA dragging from my dry box to the feeder on my S5.
With the stringing i would take a guess you are not printing to cold anyway, but for a BB 0.8 you might need more retaction. You could also try the "Retractiom Extra Prime Amount" setting whats designed to help stop ooze on travel moves.
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Hi,
Are you talking about a BB print core and have you been using PVA in it?
A few more details can be handy to better help, so if you can say what print core type it is and filament type you are using, also posting basic settings like printing temp. Also when you put a needle in how far in does it go about or can you not get it in?
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It just means the Cura team have not made a preset profile for that nozzle and layer height, you can still print at 0.06 layer heights if you wish, just create a new print profile and under quality adjust the Layer Height setting to 0.06, making sure your line width settings are still set for a 0.25 nozzle at 0.23.
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Aww right, that's no problem. It made it look like the filament was maybe getting to hot and dragged off the part by sticking to the nozzle.
If you want you could upload the stl and i could see what it looks like in the slicer and maybe even try printing it myself (even know i only have a 0.4 nozzle. Would be best to upload the .3mf file from Cura, to do that just load your stl into cura and then go to file and save and that way we can see all the settings you have and the model.
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1 minute ago, Sennris said:
I use PLA and i have noticed any filament stuck to the nozzle and if the filament was burning wouldn't it have issue on the sides of the print as well?
With the sides its moving about more, as you getting to that top point its starting to make short movements so it could be not cooling down. It defo looks like as you get to the shorter movments the filaments becoming more black.
Could you post your cooling settings?
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That kinda looks like the filament is getting burnt, do you get much filament stuck to the nozzle after its printed that part?
Also is that PLA or PETG?
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You can try warming the filament up with a heat gun and pulling the filament away with tweezers as it becomes soft, just try not to aim to much direct heat at any wires.
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If i'm understanding this right the slice in Cura looks fine, but when you print on your printer you have gaps between the filament paths of the top layers?
Could you share a image of one of the prints you have done because seeing the problem first hand via a image can really help to see and understand the problem better than just words.
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When it's printing does it feel like the printer as alot of vibration?
It also looks like you got to much filament flow as the corners are really sticking out, what could be down to jerk and acceleration.
Might be a good idea if your able to film and upload the printer printing a few layers of the print as sometimes you can see more whats going on.
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I’m going take a guess that the walls you have in the model are to thin for you to print. If using a 0.4mm nozzle your wall thickness needs to really be 0.4mm but you can get away with a little thinner.
So you could try editing the model to add some wall thickness or you could try smaller nozzle sizes.
but basically if your settings have a line width of say 0.35mm any walls thinner than that it not be able to print.
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With PVA you want a high % so you make a good roof to the support, but i have gradual support infill steps on, what means only the top 1mm of the support is 50% the rest is much lower more like 15%
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The filament run out does not always mean that its run out, it also picks up and gives a error if the right amount of filament if not moving via the feeder. This can be down to a blocked nozzle, drag on the spool, bad filament.
So a few things to try are like @willryan3 as said already, try to print as a higher temp, go up in 5c steps to about 215c as normal PLA should not really need to be any higher than that.
Clean the print cores, check the 3rd party spool is moving free on the spool holder with no drag, check out the feeders incase you got bits of filament in there.
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Once you have done your nozzle height if you still have the same problem I would personally up the temperature as it really looks like you have under extrusion, going by how thin the lines looks and the gaps between them.
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3 minutes ago, Travis7s said:
Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately priorities have already shifted with me so I need to back to 0.4AA and won't be able to troubleshoot for another week or so. 😞
I did notice some things though.The stock profile for 0.4AA Nylon is 255C, while for 0.8AA it is only 245C which seems against what Carla is saying.
I think I may have found the real problem though, on closer look I can see that the nozzle is way too high off the plate. I realize now that I swapped cores without doing any kind of calibration or leveling offset for the 2nd nozzle so...
Yeah in Cura for the profiles they seem to drop the print speed down a lot what has the same effect of printing higher temp. Basically by them dropping the print speeds for the 0.8 vs the 0.4 it lets the printer keep up with melting the fillament. EG 0.4 is 70 mm/s where 0.8 is drops to 35 mm/s so in many cases using a 0.8AA use the preset profiles might be slower than using a 0.4 as the print speeds half.
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Hi @Travis7s
Did you up the temperature settings to a higher temperature at all? When using the 0.8AA you are trying to push out a lot more filament at once, so you need to set a higher temperature so the printer can keep up with melting it in the print core.
It looks like its been having a hard time flowing out the nozzle so my guess is that you do need to higher the printing temperatures.
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11 minutes ago, Crono986 said:
I've pulled the trigger on black. I'll let you know when it comes in, and we can share a common test print.
Can you please share with me a GCode for a UM3E?
Or we can do it manually by going through all the settings, whichever you prefer.
It’s likely best if you share the .3mf file as that saves your settings and stl in a Cura project file. Just go to file and save after you have loaded the stl into Cura.-
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Hi,
First off i really don't think swearing is needed when asking for help, you are wanting help so be nice to them that want to help.
The changes it means are any custom edits you have made to the profile settings, so any settings listed under the "Customized" part, so in the case above its your Printing Temperature (Extruder 1).
I personally use it alot, because i edit my settings for supports and cooling so as i swap between profiles for differnet quality or filament types it keeps all my edited settings so i don't have to keep editing them all the time.
Then your last image is a setting to pick if you want it to ask you if you want to keep them when you swap between profiles everytime or to auto remove them or auto keep them. I have mine to don't ask becasue like i say i have custom support settings i use for everything.
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Hi,
Yes from my understanding there is a difference between the two. Basically the "initial layer height" setting make for a bigger first layer height but keeps the nozzle gap the same, so for eg if you got a 0.05 gap between the nozzle and build plate that gap will stay that and it will print the first layer.
Where the z-offset plugin makes the gap between the build plate and nozzle bigger, what can be handy for filaments like PETG that need a bit of a bigger gap due to how well they stick and like to stick to a nozzle when pushing down the first layer. Can also be handy if your printing onto a fabric over the build plate.
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1 hour ago, robinmdh said:
yes 😞
I'm still a little sad colors got left out when we build the S5, I would have much preferred colors to indicate printer-state or allowing the user to set a color for the printer.
Would have been good if was color, so if eg a filament run out happened it would for eg flash an red color so it could be easy to spot. Could someone swap the led strip for a RGB one or is it a limit on the board?
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Looking at that you have a error with the “initial printing temperature” setting, this setting needs to match or be lower than the “printing temperature” setting. This setting tells the printer at what temperature the printer can start printing from as it gets up to the main printing temperature.
So it your case set “Initial printing temperature” to 195c and the printer will heat up the hotend to 195c and then start the first layer as heating up to your 205c setting then after the first layer it cool back down to your main printing temperature of 195c you have set.
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Warm and moving water will always break down PVA faster than cold still water. As for how long it’s still going take time to break down but how long goes by how much PVA you need to break down and how easy the water can get to it.
That’s why it’s a good idea to pull most the pva off the print after the pva as become soft after about 10min in the water. -
Hi,
For the Bowden tube slipping out of the feeder, check that the tube coupling collet (the round item that you push the Bowden into) as all its teeth still so it can grip the bowden.
If the coupling collet is all fine then cut around 4mm off the end of the Bowden tube, this will mean the coupling collet will now be gripping a fresh part of the Bowden tube as it’s likely that where it gripped before if worn and that’s why the Bowden tube was able to slip free from the feeder.
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Glass transition temperature is the temperature that a plastic goes from being rigid to becoming soft, For a filament like PLA that temperature is around 55-60c. So if breaking down PVA in warm water with PLA you need to make sure the water is below that tempure or you risk the part becoming soft and losing it's shape.
Warm and water thats not still really helps break down PVA faster, that's why people use fish tanks with heated water and air bubble bricks to keep the water moving.
Ultimaker S5 stops middle print
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by Carla_Birch
No i send from my iMac via the Cloud and not direct from the iMac to the printer via my local network. The cloud as the benifit of seeing the images of the print queue when away from local network, and when you have more than one printer and a good number of print jobs queued, it really helps seeing so can better manage the print queue.