aag

Is it possible to achieve IP64 or IP65 splash-proofing of a Tough-PLA print? I must design an outdoor case for low-voltage (5-12V) electronics equipment. If I print with 100% infill, what is the minimal wall thickness that would afford protection from rain/snow/moisture?

Not sure I understand. Obviously the printer knows when it stalls. It tells so via the display, and you can check it on the app as well. Why would be so complex to send a notification, e.g. by executing a custom script? We have a bunch of $100 surveillance cameras that send all kinds of selectable alerts (including push notification and emails) when they detect movement. There is even a completely free Raspberry software (MotionEye) that offers movement notification either by email, or a by web hook, or by execution of a script. Regrettably, it detects "movement" rather than "abse

fair point and apologies for my rant, which is borne out of frustration with the inability to get any kind of warning if a remote printer runs into any kind of trouble.

Absolutely! After you've paid $6K for a high-end printer, the least you can do is to learn android app coding and make your own plugins in order to enable basic functions! 😉

...that alerts me of a problem (e.g. run out of filament, pause, or else) by push notification? Because without that, the app is very-close-to-useless.

In my case it turns out it was a failing front fan. It was still revolving, but at a lower speed insufficient to cool the printheads.

I am getting very frequent tPLA underextrusion on my S5, resulting in halted prints (if the flow sensor is on) or ruined print (if the flow sensor is off). I have replaced both the prinhead and the bowden tube, and I have cleaned the feeder many times. None of this has resolved the issue. Now I have noticed that the part of the filament entering the upper part of the printhead has an increased diameter, suggesting that it was partially molten. I think that this may indicate that the temperature creeps up from the nozzle to the upper metal tube. If true, this might indicate that the s

Never mind, I have found that Cura will still slice and print, even if the values are marked in red as erroneous!

This thingy https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4256347 is supposed to deliver a flexible hygiene mask holder by avoiding to print the top/bottom layers. The STL has tops and bottoms, but the instructions say to print it without them, such that the hex infill will become visible. With Cura, however, I cannot find a way to do that. If I set Layer thickness to zero, it marks it as error. Is there a way to do that?

I mostly have tPLA+PVA. Contrary to expectations, it's the tPLA that gives trouble; the PVA is just fine (I dry it regularly). And it's real underextrusion, meaning that turning off the flow sensor will result in a ruined print... 😞

I am frequently getting the dreaded message: "One material appears to be empty" (which in reality means: "the Hall sensor in the feeder is not detecting any filament movement"). I have cleaned and inspected the feeder, replaced the Bowden, and of course checked the filament. Can this be a sign that the printhead is worn out and needs to be replaced?

Thanks. Here we go: https://www.dropbox.com/s/e5840y68p3322ek/2020-08-25 16.53.26.mp4 The rattling noise comes during movements along the Y-axis (not the X-axis), and it is audible during unidirectional movement. Therefore, I don't think it's a loose rod.

Thanks a million Erin!!! BTW, may I accede to your kind help again with a related question? Since a few days, the S% is making rattling noises. Rat-rat-rat-rat-rat-rat at approx. 2-3 Hz frequency. It seems to come from the upper front-left corner, maybe from a pulley. Does this ring any bell?

Thank you, this is very helpful! However, it begs the question of what is the least-cumbersome way to remove the guiding bars. I guess that it is probably best to first uninstall the the printhead and its axes then unscrew the side walls in order to take off the guiding bars then remove one cogwheel from the guiding bar, then slide in the black slider? right? 🙂

The UMS5 has a black thingy (don't know how it's called) into which the axis snaps. It no longer snaps though. Maybe the side retainers (made of plastic) are worn. Might somebody explain to me how to remove and replace it? 🙂 I would be immensely grateful!