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Perchik

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2+
  • Country
    US
  • Industry
    Engineering

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  1. Back when I had more time and disposable income, this UM2+ was my only printer and I upgraded various components. I also have a bunch of spare parts on hand for it. Then, I had an error on the board (ER01) that would require a new board. I didn't have time to deal with it then, and I ended up getting a different secondhand printer. Now I've got this non-working UM2+ and a ton of parts, that I just don't think I'll get around to doing anything with. When I was inspecting it, prior to this post, I also discovered that my x-motor cable had been burned where it met the board and was melted. I don't know when that happened, but I think the board is fried. I think all other components are in working order. I'm ready to clear out the space in my workshop for something else. I know I'm not going to get anywhere near what I have invested into this machine, and I'm not really looking to. I'm not really interested in piecing it out, as I don't really have the time to do it and I've gotten my enjoyment out of it. I'm also not really interested in shipping it (but I could be convinced.) So... if you want it, I'm prepared to let it go for a low price, as long as it seems fair (and I'm hoping the forum will keep you honest). Maybe a better question is, forum- what do you think this pile of stuff is worth? 200? More? Less?
  2. Oh, I thought I mentioned it in my post. I've wiggled the connectors, reseated everything, checked for continuity from various parts of the connector. The old thermistor and the new one both read about ~108 ohms. I've also tried swapping the bed thermistor with the hotend thermistor (eg, swapping temp1 and temp3) but I still get the ER01.
  3. I was preparing to sell my UM2+ and blew out the main board with some compressed air, to knock off the dust. After that, I started getting ER01 about the temp sensor failing. Conveniently, I had a new one on hand, but it still fails. I've also tried swapping in the bed cable and I'm still getting the hotend temp error message. From the official troubleshooting page, it sounds like something is wrong with my main board. Give n that I'm about to try to sell it, I'm torn about what to do. If I sell it, non-working, I expect to get little for it. If I buy a new mainboard and swap it in, I'm sure I could sell it for more, but I'm not sure if that's worth the investment. I could get a cheap Chinese clone board, but that also seems like it might hurt the resale value. What would you do? Is there a way to diagnose the board and fix it, if I had access to the right equipment? thanks!
  4. My bed stopped heating recently and I traced the problem to the terminal block on the main board. One side of this block was burned out. If I remove the wire and touch it directly to the contact on the board, the bed heater starts working again. Can I just solder these wires to the bed, or do I need to put in a new terminal block? If so, does anyone have an idea of what part to order? I'm competent at soldering but lack some of the knowledge of *why* things are the way they are. Does the terminal block just provide an easier way to replace the wires, or does it offer some other protection in addition? Also, any idea why the old terminal block burned out? It was yellowed and had a small burn spot on it...
  5. I'm still trying to find the documentation that previously lived at https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19953-aligning-the-axles . Anyone happy to know where this page is now ? or have a cached version?
  6. Ah in case anyone else needs it: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012834499-Ultimaker-2-repair-manuals https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/sections/360003548819-Maintenance https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/sections/360003548499-Ultimaker-2- As far as I can tell, these are harder to find now than they were, and all the old links no longer work, but the info is still here.
  7. Ooh, update. I found a link to https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/50870-check-the-tension-of-the-short-belts which no longer exists 😞
  8. I needed to align the axes on the UM2+ and I've done this before. I remember a page on the ultimaker website that described the order of tightening the set screws on the pulleys, which I can no longer find. I'm also unable to find the page about checking the tension of the short belts. I can probably make up both of these things, but I'm wondering where all the documentation went and which other documentation is missing.
  9. Any chance you'd be willing to share these JSON files? I'm interested in doing a similar adjustment.
  10. For anyone who might be interested, I made a mark2 mount for the side of the ultimaker when you want to print with just one head https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3676194
  11. Ah found the answer. In the Dual Extrusion menu, if you select extruder 1, z offset is for nozzle 1. If you select extruder 2, z offset is for nozzle 2.
  12. In the TInker firmware, I remember a menu setting that let me tweak the z-offset after buildplate adjustment to fine tune it. For the Mark2 variant, I've seen the z-offset adjustment for the second nozzle, but I can't find it for the first nozzle. Was this setting dropped in the mark 2 variant? Anyone know where that setting is controlled in the source code? I've been compiling my own firmware anyway, so I'm fine to just flip a bit somewhere, but I'm not sure what that setting is called.
  13. I ended up using PlatformIO inside VSCode to build the mark2 firmware. I had to update the platformio.ini settings to match the make parameters from the DualExpansionBoard build rule, since thats what I have: src_build_flags = -DTEMP_SENSOR_1=20 -DEXTRUDERS=2 -DTEMP_SENSOR_BED=20 -DFILAMENT_SENSOR_PIN=30 -DBABYSTEPPING -DUM2PLUS -DTCSDSCRIPT -DFAN2_PIN=6 -DHOTEND_FAN2_PIN=14 -DZ_MAX_POS=325 -DDEFAULT_POWER_BUDGET=160 -DHEATER_0_MAXTEMP=315 -DHEATER_1_MAXTEMP=315 -DSTRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR=\"TinkerMark2_19.03\" -DHEATER_2_MAXTEMP=315 -DEEPROM_VERSION=\"V12\" Now, I've finally got mark2 19.03 installed on my UM2+, but I'm fighting with "X or Y switch disabled" error that others have seen on tinker firmware. I resinstalled the stock firmware and then did a factory reset, then I reinstalled my mark2 firmware. Advanced > preferences > print area shows that x and y min and max are all zeroes. Updated to x: 0 - 230 y: 0 - 224.5 z 230 based on the defines in Configuration.h . Now I'm finally able to go through the calibration step of Mark2 build. Wooo! Mostly just documenting this for anyone else who goes down this path. Also attached is my Mark2 DualExpansion board firmware, but no guarantees that it works for anyone else! CustomMark2DualExpansionBoard1903.hex.zip
  14. Sure. My thought is that there's something specifically wrong with the mark2 hex files, since I can upload other hex files fine (including the Tinker firmware). I figured if I could rebuild the mark2 hex it might work. I tried uploading the mark2 hex with avrdude and it uploaded fine, but then had verification errors (which led to my UM2 screen being black :!) I was able to upload the stock firmware to get it back to a working state. Now I'm looking at the makefile to try to figure out what might be wrong.
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