Enigma_M4
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Posts posted by Enigma_M4
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Hi,
as the printheads of the S5 and the UM3 are NEARLY the same, the following two youtube-videos by @fbrc8-erin might help you:
and
If the fan bracket has the right position, the -realy strong- magnets should have enough power to hold it securely and reliably in place.
Regards
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Hi Cybersaurus,
if i looked right, the two 3mm spachers belong to the Y-Rods (leading from front to back of the printer), front side (where the opening is), between the front panel and the timing-pulleys.
Regards
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Hallo,
nachfolgender Beitrag von letztem Mittwoch weist auf Leuchtstoffröhre als mögliche Ursache für Sensor-Störungen hin:
Grüße
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Another issue could also be a disconnected cable on the sensor board inside the printhead, as described in this post:
Regards
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Hi ewatson,
PLA is not really the material of choice for support structures. Using a UM3, I'd recommend either PVA or Breakaway, which both work really well with nylon.
PVA is easyer to remove by water-dissolution, but more expensive. Breakaway, sometimes releaves smaller strands, which are hard to grab.
Regards
PS (edit): Ultimaker material-compatibility-chart:
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility
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Hi,
at first look I would have guessed for a blocked nozzle, but as you say you've cleaned it, this could be sorted out. Feeder tension at middle-position is also optimal.
What about your printing temperature? Could it be to cold for your material?
When filament is loaded via menu (i hope the UM2 works like the UM3 in this point), the temp. is controlled by the firmaware, but when printing, it's controlled by the G-code generated by cura. And as there is a blocked nozzle when printing, what's not the case when loading the filament, to cold print settings could be the culprit.
Regards
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Hi aag,
If you select the main tab for extruder 2, what's the value for build plate adhesion extruder there? If it's extruder 2, that might be the culprit; change to extruder 1.
Regards
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Hi Herve,
@fbrc8-erin has posted a good tutorial video about reseating axles and sliding blocks on youtube:
I think this perfectly fits (and hopefully solves) your issues.
Regards
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Hallo 7up,
wenn Du die Originalteile bestellen willst: die Ultimaker Teilenummern sind 1967 und 1968.
...und als weitere Alternative zu Smithy's Ersatzteilvorschlägen:
http://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-3-extruder-lever-mod
seit ich den im Einsatz habe, will ich ihn nicht mehr missen.
Viele Grüße
PS: und auf Thingiverse hat sich mal jemand die Arbeit gemacht, die Original Feeder-Dateien (auch z.B. die Gehäuseteile) als STL zur Verfügugn zu stellen:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2971534
Grüße
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The upper surface of the translucent plastic part has two recesses, where the print head housing "grips" it.
So when pressing the "release"-lever, just apply a LITTLE bit of pressure down on the translucent part and you should be able to pull the core out easily.
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Hallo Peter,
wie Du schon ganz richtig erkannt hast, kommt das Z-Achsen "knacken" vom aktiven Auto-Nivellieren.
Das Auto-Nivellieren versucht, die Unebenheiten des Druckbetts beim Drucken der ersten 2-3 Schichten auszugleichen, damit der Druck insgesamt waagerecht wird (beim fertigen Druck ist dann halt der Boden leicht "schief").
Je besser das Druckbett manuell nivelliert ist, desto weniger muß der UM3 korrigieren und desto weniger "Knacken" tritt auf.
Wichtig ist, dass der Abstand zwischen der Unterseite des Heizbetts und der Oberseite der Drucktischbasis ca. 14mm beträgt (damit das Aktive Nivellieren ordnungsgemäß funktioniert). Also weder Schrauben ganz rein, noch Schrauben ganz raus. Dafür gibts sogar ein kleines Hilfstool:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool
Wenn dieser Abstand einigermaßen stimmt, dann ganz normal mit dem Menü manuell nivellieren. Beim Einstellen der vorderen beiden Schrauben mit der Calibration Card aber aufpassen, dass kein Druck auf die Schrauben und somti auf das Druckbett ausgeübt wird, da dies die Einstellarbeit verfälschen kann.
Ein gut kalibrierter Drucktisch kommt dann beim Drucken ganz ohne "Knacken" aus :-) .
Grüße
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Hi Akke,
this sounds strange.
Of course it could be a defective printhead PCB, but I'd guess rather a broken cable or broken cable connector inside the print head (i guess the connection between the printhead PCB and the capacitive sensor, maybe just a loose plug), as the problem is only occurring sometimes (and this would be solved easier and with less expense).
I assume the reported interference is not caused by nearby electromagnetic fields (speakers / TV etc.) or being to close to the printer while active levelling (if I'm wrong, this really could be a source of errors, as the sensor is very sensitive for such disturbance, so keeping hands off the printer while active levelling is mandatory).
But, as said, I'm now very deep in the field of guessing. Perhaps someone else reading these posts is able to help?
Regards.
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Hi Oliveros,
I'm happy user of "DesignSpark Mechanical" from RS Online. It needs registration, but is fully free.
https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-software
You could get a first impression via Youtube.
Regards
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Hi Akke,
it could be worth doing two checks before exchanging the print head cable:
1. testing the capacitive sensor via maintenance menu
2. checking the sensor cable, as described in the following post:
https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/20852-um3-auto-levelling-not-working/?tab=comments#comment-205252
Regards
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Hi,
here's a part of an older thread, mentioning your problem:
On 7/18/2019 at 5:13 PM, hughwyeth said:BINGO
You're a genius dude, thanks so much for your post. I'm 99% sure this is it (or at least part of the problem)- when i originally saw the arm had this dip in it I thought it must be part of the design but on removing it, it's clearly been worn out.
I take it I need to contact a local reseller to source this part? Is there a more durable alternative version out there?
On 7/18/2019 at 8:31 PM, Enigma_M4 said:Hi,
the part-numbers are 1967 (the worn-out half on the photo) and 1968.
One also realy useful solution would be this:
http://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-3-extruder-lever-mod
Works pretty well for me.
Regards
Regards
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Hallo Stefan,
Deine Druckparameter für PVA (Temp. und Geschw.) entsprechen den Standardwerten in Cura, daran dürft's also nicht liegen.
Was genau klappt denn nicht mit dem PVA-Druck? Schlechte Haftung? "Fransige" Ränder beim PVA (was in gewissem Rahmen durchaus normal sein kann), schlechte Extrusion? "Feeder-Fraß"?
Feuchtigkeit könnte zwar ein Grund sein, da die Luft hier in Mannheim ja gerade nicht sonderlich trocken ist, aber solange das PVA sich trocken und nicht "klebrig" anfühlt oder beim Extrudieren übermäßig "knistert" dürfte das keine große Rolle spielen (hab' letztes Jahr das PVA gut zwei Monate offen am Drucker gehabt und keine Probleme bekommen).
Grüße
Enigma
(PS: berufsbedingt kann meine Reaktionszeit auf etwaige Rückfragen etwas länger dauern)
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Hi Marc,
this misalignment of the axles requires an alignment of the print head, as described for example here:
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/50871-check-for-play-on-axles
It's the procedure for the UM3, but it is also valid for the S-Series, with the exception, that you need another calibration tool as the one provided in the link (the axles of the S-Series have different diameters than the UM3).
You could use these, provided by @ultiarjan on youmagine:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-s5-axis-alignment-tool
Regards
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21 minutes ago, akke said:
I'm not totally sure about this. I'm wondering if it's not an auto level correction fault or something.
This could be easily checked by observing the z-axis when printing the first layer: if there is a ticking sound and motion of the z-axis when printing the first layer (or first layers), especially in y-direction, then auto level correction is active.
As I see you have checked everything and made no mistake when levelling. Unfortunately, I'm now at my wits' end :-(
Regards
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Hi,
the adhesion sheets are no issue, neither for manual nor for active leveling.
When doing manual levelling, be careful not to apply any pressure (up or down) on the platform when adjusting the two front screws (happened to me: adjusted just fine with the calibration card, but when I took my hand off the screw and re-checked, the adjustment was not good and had to be redone).
The issue you describe is that the front side of the printbed is closer to the print head than the rear side.
Do the axles of the print head (especially the y-axis) sit properly in the sliding blocks?
Regards
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Hi akke,
the problem you described looks like a print bed heavily out of level (tilted backward), so manual leveling should be done again.
Active leveling is not able to reposition the print bed, but only measures how far it is out of level and corrects it at the first 2-3 layers which means: the better the bed is leveled (manual), the less correction the activ levelling has to do (and the less out of level is the bottom of your print).
The "weak" spring should be no issue, so it's your choice to keep it as it is or to replace it with a new one (part nr. 1788, spring DR2160).
Check, if the distance of the bottom of the heat bed and the top of the build platform is about 14mm (which is needed for active levelling to work properly)
Regards
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Hi,
assuming you use an UM3?
The 14mm are needed not between the nozzle and the glass plate, but between the underside of the heat bed and the upper side of the build plattform (base plate).
The distance nozzle - glass bed should be manual levelled using the calibration card.
Regards
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Hi Cosmin,
@fbrc8-erin has posted a good tutorial video about reseating axles and sliding blocks on youtube:
It's for the UM3, but the procedure is the same, as the sliding blocks are identical at UM3 and S5.
Taking apart the sliding block is not necessary.
This video shows how the sliding block is assembled (just for your interest):
Regards
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Hi,
the blob is created for each used head, right before it starts printing. A not used head doesn't waste material for just a blob.
If you use only head 1, only head 1 creates a blob, if you only use head 2, only head 2 creates a blob, if you use both heads, both create a blob.
Regards
PLA und BreakAway - "Fäden" kommen aus Aussenwand
in Deutsch
Posted
Hallo Roland,
das schreit ja schon förmlich nach einem Einzugsturm (kleines Türmchen, das in einer Ecke des Druckbetts gedruckt wird und die Düsen bei Dualdruck vor Erreichen des Bauteils abstreift) oder zumindest einem Sickerschutz ("Hülle" um das Bauteil, das den gleichen Effekt erzielen soll) oder, falls Du Cura in englisch benutzt: prime tower oder ooze shield (befindet sich beides in der Rubrik Duale Extrusion), damit die Stütmaterial-Reste am Türmchen, und nicht am Bauteil abgestreift werden.
Der Einzugsturm ist im Cura-Profil für den UM3 standardmäßig aktiviert, beim S5 aber scheinbar standardmäßig deaktiviert (aus welchen Gründen auch immer).
Hoffe, ich konnte helfen.
Grüße