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Enigma_M4

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Everything posted by Enigma_M4

  1. Hi Dan, the two big issues in 3D-printing are: the prints don't stick to the bed (while printing) the prints stick too good to the bed (after printing) For first tips you should regard to the following post: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21620-tip-bed-adhesion/ What kind of printer / print bed do you have? Using a heated glass bed, you should regard it's free of grease (finger prints) and as clean as possible; a thin layer of glue or an adhesive sheet of some kind also can help. For me, PLA just prints fine on clean bare glass, hea
  2. Hi, just installed the new FW and as far I could test, it's working well. The only issue I noticed is the "Analytics Material Bug" It's nice to know that ending production of the UM3 doesn't mean dropping of support / FW developement 🙂. Regards
  3. Hi James, for the (network connected) UM3, the camera stream can be accessed via (IP adress):8080/?action=stream. (the colon is not part of the command) Possibly it also works for other UM Printers. Regards
  4. Hi, for clarification: are you talking about the cable cover that sits outside the back panel of the printer, just under the spool holder? I think it's ordinary painted sheet metal, I don't think it's powder coated. But that's just a guess. Regards
  5. Hallo, zur Teile-Bezeichnung (inkl. Teilenummern) ist die offizielle Teileliste sehr hilfreich (dort ab S. 12). UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf Zur Bezugsquelle: wie @Smithy schon sagte: iGo3D. Viele Grüße
  6. Hi, Windows 7 is not the culprit. I keep Cura 4.7.1 running on a Win7 environment, using an i7 processor with graphics onboard (OpenGL 4.4) Regards
  7. Hi, this link is a big improvement to the situation before, when the instructions for axle alignment were totally gone. Just download the attached PDF of your preferred language and follow the instructions in chapter 3 (page 20 and following). The calibrating sticks can be found on youmagine or thingiverse. For the S5 you need two sets of different sizes referring to the different axle sizes of the S5. Regards
  8. Hi, it sounds a bit like active levelling. If you touch the z-screw, (where you can reach it best without interfering the moving parts, maybe somewhere under the z-table, maybe on the top of the z-screw) you may feel it move while this rattling noise happens. If that's the case, your build platform is -a bit- out of level, causing the active levelling system to compensate this on the first few layers of your print. Regards
  9. He was named "Jaws" (or in German: "Beißer"). Regards
  10. It's a wavy infill pattern which creates a full 3dimensional web-like structure, like bone. In the second video there's some reference.
  11. Hi, there's a good overview on youtube, by CNC Kitchen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmEaNAwFSfI and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upELI0HmzHc As infill is just for compressing forces, I prefer Gyroid, as it shows strength from every direction. But that's just my oppinion, I may be wrong. Regards
  12. Hi Adam, you can remove the print core while the printer is powered off and unplugged, without using the menu, if the filament is unloaded. Just open the fan bracket, compress the print core lever and pull out the print core to the front, just applying a little bit of pressure on the upper corner of the translucent part of the print core lever. If it's the right-sided print core, it must be in the lower position. Regards
  13. Hi, from the printhead and the Ultibot on your side panel shown on your pics, I suppose you're using an UM3. Your issue reminds me of another thread in the past: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/28882-continued-printing-issues/?do=findComment&comment=243498 Possibly it helps. Regards
  14. What about keeping the NFC sensor cable plugged in the printer, eventually taking the sensor out of the spoolholder and putting it somewhere near the printer, where it doesn't disturb?
  15. Using a clamp or not, I think the most important is proper working of the magnets, that hold the fan bracket close. If that's not the case, there's a good instruction video, provided by @fbrc8-erin: However it is achieved: preventing a head flood is preventing lots of frustration. Regards
  16. Playing the game WILL result in experience 😉. I forgot to mention that my experience is made with an UM3, 0.4mm nozzle, so the gap value may vary for other printers / nozzle sizes / materials. A higher gap value for PETG may result in what I experienced with PLA, but I wasnt brave enough going above 0.3 at all (It's just trial and error and achieving a big learning curve while playing the game 😉).
  17. Hi, the brim gap was the most useful enhancement of the last cura versions. My first test after availability was printing a comb (PLA), using a 0.2mm gap. It printed perfect and the brim just separated while removing the print from the build plate, resulting in the cleanest first layer I ever got (no elefant foot). Printing with CPE (PETG), a 0.3mm gap results in a very well adhering brim, which can be removed nearly perfect, just bending up and down. Many thanks to all who were involved in the implementation of this great feature. Regards
  18. Hi, I can't help with your problem, but the attached files (STLs) don't help finding the issue. It would be good if you post the gcode file that works and a gcode file, that doesn't print, and perhaps the corresponding cura project files. These are the informations, the gcode-cracks in this forum normally need 😉. Regards
  19. The tweeks and options in the "custom" section are overwhelming. Sometimes it's easier to start with the "Recommended" section and -if the "intent profiles" are available, as for the S-series, choose the spot that matches the desired result. https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/30191-ultimaker-cura-44-released-with-new-intent-profiles/ Regards
  20. Hi, try the Engineering profile in Cura (should be available for the S3). They are optimized for accuracy. Regards
  21. Hi, like @MadHatter mentioned, checking the 14mm-gap is the first thing that should be done at the "offset error" - if the diagnosis of the capacitive sensor is positive. The two most helpful things for this are in my oppinion: 1. this youtube-video, provided by @fbrc8-erin: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2VFp6AqoMg 2. this small tool, provided by @IRobertI: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool (unfortunately, only works with UM3, not with S5 or S3) Regards
  22. Hi, if possible, you should run the limit switch diagnostics (system -> maintenance -> diagnostics -> limit switches (or similar, my UM3 is not set to English) ). There should be listet the limit switches x, y and z with boxes and an "x" inside for each activated switch. If you put your printhead out of the way and manually activate the limit switch, the "x" should appear at klick pressed and disappear when the switch is released. If this is the case, the switch and cabling are ok, only the metallic lever is bent or the switch isn't mounted properly. If the
  23. Hi, as mentioned above and concluded from your infos, they definitely are different than 3M. The thickness of 0,06mm is neglible to every calibration tolerance, and they don't get cratered by the nozzles via active levelling. As @Tomahawk_101 mentioned: I for myself just print either on bare glass (with no glue, spray or something else) or, when there is a risk to chipp the glass or there's tendency to warping, UM adhesion sheets. Of course printing on bare glass is more comfortable, while removing a print from a new or barely used adhesion sheet can be a real "pain in t
  24. Hi, there seems to be some confusion in software and codes that should be solved first: We have to differ between: firmware. This is the operating system of your printer. In the case of Ender3 it's Marlin, as @Mari just posted. gcode. This is the set of instructions, your printer uses to print. Depending on the firmware of your printer, the "flavor" of gcode can vary. slicing software (for example Cura). This is the program, which translates an object (mostly .stl) into gcode. In the settings of Cura, all informations about printer, printer size and gcode-flavor (ma
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