Enigma_M4

Hi, the part number of the camera assembly is 9689 (see page 33 of the parts manual) UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf AFAIK every official Ultimaker reseller should be able to sell it. Are you sure the cable is not there (routed next to the LED-strip)? Regards

Hi, afaik, there is no other way than manual levelling. But if your leveling is good, why don't you just skip the first steps of the leveling process without any changes and only tune the offset, which is done only with the encoding wheel, without touching the leveling screws? Regards

Hi, is your lift switch (which moves the right nozzle up and down) calibrated properly? This can be checkt by running the lift switch test in the printer. Possibly you've to run the lift switch calibration process. Regards

Hi, is your lift switch (which moves the right nozzle up and down) calibrated properly? This can be checkt by running the lift switch test in the printer. Possibly you've to run the lift switch calibration process. Regards

Hi, for me it sounds like the lift switch is out of calibration. Did you try to (re)calibrate the lift switch? Regards

The one rule of thumb for handling filament: there are only three positions for the end of the filament: fixed to the spool inserted in the feeder in your hand Every other position sooner or later will lead to a mess 😉. Regards

Hallo @7up, ob die Feeder Version 2 auch nutzbar ist, kann ich Dir leider nicht genau sagen, aber nach der Aussage von @CarloK im anderen Beitrag... ...scheint dort eine andere Elektronik Verwendung zu finden, mit der die aktuelle Firmware des UM3 wohl nichts anfangen kann. Aber nix genaues weiß ich leider nicht 😉. Vielleicht funktionierts, vielleicht nicht. Ich kann nur sagen: mit den V1-Feedern läuft mein UM3 super. Wenn/falls es ein Firmware-Update geben sollte, müßten halt die Änderungen in der Firmware nochmal gemacht werden (sofern man nicht die Permanent-Variante gewählt hat), dafür hab' ich mir die geänderte Datei auf dem Rechner zwischengespeichert... "Schrotten" kann man den UM3 mit dem Umbau nicht. Der einzige permanente Eingriff am Drucker sind die beiden Bohrmulden an der Gehäuserückseite, alles andere (Feeder, "Umbau" der Stecker, Freischaltung der Firmware) ist reversibel.

Hi, is your front fan clean and running? Your problem sounds like there's heat creep involved. Regards

Hi, for your interest, the part number of the display is 1252. UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf Regards

Hi, for access to the motherboard, this article by @fbrc8-erin may be helpful for you: https://www.ultimakernasupport.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187366-Electronics-Board Routing the new cable along the path of the old one should be no problem ;-). Regards PS: Sorry, didn't notice You have an S5, as the video-links of @Torgeir misleaded me; maybe the link is helpful anyway.

Hi, these two instructions may be helpful for you (especially the second one, as your problem points to not proper aligned axles): https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667417951326 https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667412443401 Regards

Place the print roughly into the rectangles (your calibration sheet seems to be improperly scaled) and take the long line closest to the 0 as reference (like on your foto: the 0 and the line inside the circle belong together).

Hi, in my oppinion, it's not far off. The long lines refer to the "10"s (and the 0), the middle lines refer to the "5"s. You just need to identify the "0" for reference. Regards

Hi, the part numbers for the front fan magnets is 2139 (at least for the UM3, but the magnets for the front fan flap of the UM3 and the S5 are identical). So contact your reseller, they should be able to sell you the part(s), like this German reseller: https://www.igo3d.com/ultimaker-s5-frontfan-magnet Regards

Das ist auch meine Vermutung, aber ich kenn' mich mit der MS nicht aus (nur recht gut mit dem UM3). Hier sind jedoch die offiziellen Dokumente und Anleitungen zur MS zu finden: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/topic/0TO5b000000Q4wNGAS/material-station Von dort kommt man in drei verschiedene Untersektionen, die jeweils hilfreiche PDFs enthalten. Vielleicht ist da was dabei, das für Dich nützlich ist. Grüße

Also, die beiden Kerben sind ganz klassische Frässpuren, die entstehen, wenn der Feeder das Filament erfolglos zu transportieren versucht. Das Filament hängt also beim Retract-Versuch fest, oder die Düse ist beim Vorschub-Versuch blockiert.

Hi Dan, that a bit reminds me to myself. I was a strong user of DesignSpark Mechanical 5 as long as it worked, and the learning curve was pretty flat, for designing projects of your own or for modifying existing STLs; a really nice program for free. But the RS-Guys changed their politics and made three subscription lines: one for free, one for little money and one for much money. In the free subscription, importing STLs or STEP-files no longer is possible. So, heavy-hearted, I decided to switch over to FreeCad. It's open source and community-developed, compareable to linux. No cost, no restrictions, and a very powerful program, parametric like Fusion. BUT: the learning curve is as steep as Mt. Everest (at least coming from the non-parametric Designspark), with a wiki-dokumenation and a lot of youtube tutorials. I've gone this path anyway; I guess, FreeCad will never charge it's users any money, and if they will some day, old versions never expire. So this change might be worth the effort. Regards

Hi, possibly this thread is helpful: Regards

What about the "Barbarian Units"-Plugin by @nallath in the marketplace? It converts from inches to mm if needed and selected.

I upgraded my UM3 with S5 feeders (rev1) some time ago, using the documents by @polygonfuture and they work like a charm (I've not used abrasive filaments with the CC-cores so far, so I'm only used to the flow sensors). The sensors can be activated and deactivated in the printer menu and instantly detect any flow rate lower than 80%, like clogged nozzles or filament run-out. The little tinkering that's needed to fit the feeders (drilling a small pocket and changing two wires in a connector) can be done by everyone, who's able to maintain a printer. The E-steps stay the same, as the sprockets of the feeders of UM3 and S5 are the same size. The only thing that's a bit tricky is adapting the firmware via SSH, but the description is step-by-step, so I (a windows 7 user with no experience in linux and SSH) was able to do it. Afaik, the new S5 feeders just changed the knurling of the feeder-wheel, so they might work.

Bonjour Victor, Je ne peux malheureusement pas non plus te dire quelle est la référence de la pièce que tu cherches, mais voici un lien sur Youmagine où tu trouveras le fichier STL à imprimer toi-même (en espérant que tu aies actuellement accès à une imprimante qui fonctionne). https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-tension-indicator-for-um3-e-ultimaker-2plus Salutations (traduit de l'allemand vers le français avec "DeepL")

That would be good. Pics of the prints or problems tell a lot and the real experts may be able to lead the way.

Well, a factory reset solves a lot of issues, but also requires total calibration from scratch. I think, first thing is consulting the user manual. If you don't have one, it can be found here: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667337567558 If the printer was in poor condition (as you mentioned in your other post?), you should do general maintenance first (cleaning the printer, check and tighten the screws of the printer's frame (not part of the maintenance procedure, but definitely worth it), check the axle play and alignment, cleaning the printcores, lubricating the axles and Z-screw etc.) If your problems are hardware-based, this should solve them and you don't need to factory reset (which only resets the software of your printer). And one realy good step (that you've already gone) is using the forum. Ask your questions, the more specific and detailled they are, the sooner you'll get response. Regards

Hi, if you're using Cura, just stick to the official printer settings of the UM3(E), as they are from Ultimaker (and I guess they know what they're doing). The standard G-code setting for the UM3 is Griffin, and I never used something different. Regards

Hi, grease is only used on the Z-screw. Ultimaker used a grease called "Magnalube" and nowerdays uses "Eurol Grease", but I guess every PTFE-based grease is good. For the print head rails / axles, "UNILUBE" is the oil of choice, a PTFE-based sewing machine oil. Regards