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Enigma_M4

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Posts posted by Enigma_M4

    Ultimaker 3 - Printhead full of filament

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Hi Adam,

    you can remove the print core while the printer is powered off and unplugged, without using the menu, if the filament is unloaded.

    Just open the fan bracket, compress the print core lever and pull out the print core to the front, just applying a little bit of pressure on the upper corner of the translucent part of the print core lever.

    If it's the right-sided print core, it must be in the lower position.

    Regards

    Ultimaker 3 - Printhead full of filament

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    On 8/10/2020 at 11:26 PM, danielkrice said:

    Not sure I follow your comment but I’m happy with the part and haven’t had any disasters or ‘head flood’ moments since, even with print adhesion fails.

     

    Each to their own

     

    Using a clamp or not, I think the most important is proper working of the magnets, that hold the fan bracket close.

    If that's not the case, there's a good instruction video, provided by @fbrc8-erin:

     

    However it is achieved: preventing a head flood is preventing lots of frustration.

    Regards

    • Like 2

    Brim - great for adhesion but hard to cleanly remove - perforation.

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Playing the game WILL result in experience 😉.

    I forgot to mention that my experience is made with an UM3, 0.4mm nozzle, so the gap value may vary for other printers / nozzle sizes / materials.

    A higher gap value for PETG may result in what I experienced with PLA, but I wasnt brave enough going above 0.3 at all (It's just trial and error and achieving a big learning curve while playing the game 😉).

    Brim - great for adhesion but hard to cleanly remove - perforation.

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    23 hours ago, burtoogle said:

    Try setting the brim gap to 0.1 or thereabouts.

    Hi,

     

    the brim gap was the most useful enhancement of the last cura versions.

    My first test after availability was printing a comb (PLA), using a 0.2mm gap. It printed perfect and the brim just separated while removing the print from the build plate, resulting in the cleanest first layer I ever got (no elefant foot).

    Printing with CPE (PETG), a 0.3mm gap results in a very well adhering brim, which can be removed nearly perfect, just bending up and down.

    Many thanks to all who were involved in the implementation of this great feature.

     

    Regards

    • Thanks 1

    My Newer Models Not Printing

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi,

     

    I can't help with your problem, but the attached files (STLs) don't help finding the issue.

    It would be good if you post the gcode file that works and a gcode file, that doesn't print, and perhaps the corresponding cura project files.

    These are the informations, the gcode-cracks in this forum normally need 😉.

     

    Regards

    • Like 1

    Nozzle Offset Probe Failed Error

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi,

     

    like @MadHatter mentioned, checking the 14mm-gap is the first thing that should be done at the "offset error" - if the diagnosis of the capacitive sensor is positive.

    The two most helpful things for this are in my oppinion:

     

    1. this youtube-video, provided by @fbrc8-erin:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2VFp6AqoMg

     

    2. this small tool, provided by @IRobertI:

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool

    (unfortunately, only works with UM3, not with S5 or S3)

     

    Regards

     

     

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

    Ultimaker 3 error 17

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi,

     

    if possible, you should run the limit switch diagnostics (system -> maintenance -> diagnostics -> limit switches (or similar, my UM3 is not set to English) ). There should be listet the limit switches x, y and z with boxes and an "x" inside for each activated switch.

    If you put your printhead out of the way and manually activate the limit switch, the "x" should appear at klick pressed and disappear when the switch is released.

    If this is the case, the switch and cabling are ok, only the metallic lever is bent or the switch isn't mounted properly.

    If the diagnosis fails, either the switch itself is broken (unusual if it klicks) or the cable to the mainboard is interrupted somewhere or just unplugged.

     

    Regards

    Auto Leveling destroys my Print Adhesion sticker

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Enigma_M4

    53 minutes ago, Tigerbeard said:

    I am not sure if Ultimaker sheets are different

    Hi,

    as mentioned above and concluded from your infos, they definitely are different than 3M.

    The thickness of 0,06mm is neglible to every calibration tolerance, and they don't get cratered by the nozzles via active levelling.

    As @Tomahawk_101 mentioned:

    35 minutes ago, Tomahawk_101 said:

    to each their own

    I for myself just print either on bare glass (with no glue, spray or something else) or, when there is a risk to chipp the glass or there's tendency to warping, UM adhesion sheets. Of course printing on bare glass is more comfortable, while removing a print from a new or barely used adhesion sheet can be a real "pain in the a**".

     

    Regards

    How do I 3d print from an ender 3 pro?

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    22 minutes ago, davidstone11 said:

    Is Marlin the software for ender 3 pro? Not ultimaker cura?

    Hi,

    there seems to be some confusion in software and codes that should be solved first:

    We have to differ between:

    1. firmware. This is the operating system of your printer. In the case of Ender3 it's Marlin, as @Mari just posted.
    2. gcode. This is the set of instructions, your printer uses to print. Depending on the firmware of your printer, the "flavor" of gcode can vary.
    3. slicing software (for example Cura). This is the program, which translates an object (mostly .stl) into gcode. In the settings of Cura, all informations about printer, printer size and gcode-flavor (marlin or other) have to be made. Cura is THE user-interface used for printing (or technically: generating the gcode, the instruction set for your printer)
    4. object. this is the 3d model (mostly .stl) you want to print. This is translated by the slicer (Cura) into gcode.
    5. 3d software / CAD software. This is used to generate 3d models

    Regards

     

    Supports to nowhere.

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted · Edited by Enigma_M4

    Hi Xeddog,

     

    try reducing "Support Horizontal Expansion" to 1mm or even 0mm. This should result in support only inside the gaps (cable tie slots?) and screw holes.

     

    Regards

    Rolling vs Linear Menu

    in Firmware

    Posted · Edited by Enigma_M4
    syntax

    On 7/22/2020 at 6:11 PM, robinmdh said:

    or maybe print with the new engineering profiles?

    This would be a good suggestion, if the engineering profiles were available for the UM3.

     

    On 7/22/2020 at 6:11 PM, robinmdh said:

    but we haven't planned to do any more UM3 software updates at the moment

    That's very sad to hear, despite the principle "never change a running system".

     

    Regards

    Need Nozzle Overview

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi, it's me again.

     

    The printcores for the UM3 and the S-series are designed to be replaced as a whole. The 3D Solex hardcores are designed with replaceable nozzles.

    As you've already seen @gr5's video, it *might* be possible to change the nozzles, but not without big risk in cracking the heatbreak.

     

    Ther'e some topics about nozzle change, for example (unfortunately only in German):

    https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/33097-anbieter-ersatzdüsen-ultimaker-s3/ 

    or

    https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/30545-verstopfte-print-cores/

    with links to replacement nozzles, which are meant to be compatible with the UM Printcores.

    ( https://www.3djake.de/3d-drucker-ersatzteile/3d-drucker-duesen?&f%5B65%5D=589

    and

    https://www.filamentworld.de/shop/zubehoer/duesen-nozzles/micro-swiss-duese-twinclad-xt-ultimaker3-ultimaker-s5/ ).

    But there's no guarantee it'll work.

     

    Regards

     

    • Like 1

    Auto Leveling destroys my Print Adhesion sticker

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi Tigerbeard,

     

    Well, @Smithy reacted faster, so just some aditional thoughts:

     

    As I conclude from your other post, you're using UM adhesion sheets. They won't be damaged by the active levelling procedure. The little "craters" could be just small print material residue.

     

    I use adhesion sheets mainly for printing ABS and if printing on bare glass doesn't adhere enough, and in my experience, removing a print stresses (and damages) the sheets more than the small probing points, and the  adhesion sheets are so thin that there is no false levelling.

     

    One tip at last: I put my adhesion sheets at the backside of the glass ("non-sticker" side) and just selecting adhesion sheet or bare glass by turning the glass plate around.

     

    Regards

    XY Calibration Sheet and Leveling

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    13 minutes ago, Tigerbeard said:

    Note for 1:

    after printing a few versions (which all came out a bit different) I found this very helpful youtube video. From that its not clear why I need to print out the sheet at all. Since the printer prints both line scales and even the scale ticks (just not the numbers) its quite trivial to find out the "0" line in the middle and determine the right number.

    That's an interesting point and I agree. But the calibration sheet would make the procedure more comfortable and possibly reduce errors.

    But for adhesion sheet users (like me) your suggestion is absolutely useful.

    Thanks.

    XY Calibration Sheet and Leveling

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Enigma_M4

    Hi Tigerbeard,

     

    you seem to have solved two of your questions yourself:

     

    2. The calibration card can be replached with a sheet of 80g copy paper, or a business card, if lost.

    It's (or was?) mentioned somewhere in the UM3 documentations.

     

    3. After levelling the print bed for core 1 with the thumb screws (note to not apply pressure on the screws while adjusting; adjust the screw that's directly under the printhead), the adjustment of the Z - OFFSET for core 2 is only done with the front wheel; keep your hands off the thumb screws after levelling core 1!

     

    Now to the open question 1:

    print the PDF with "real size" or "original size" (I don't know the exact naming, as my PDF reader is set to German).

     

    Regards

    Ultimaker material UNKNOWN

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    That's good news!

    So at least your NFC reader and the material database proof working 🙂.

    Could your other spools have been exposed to a strong magnetic field or so, which could have damaged the data on the NFC tags? One or two defective NFC tags may happen, but you've counted 5+ and this would be a very strange co-incidence (would be worth buying a lottery ticket 😉).

    Regards

    Cura Layer Problem

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Hallo Trainmen,

     

    das ist das ganz normale Verhalten beim Brückenbauen (oder neudeutsch: bridging).

    Um eine mehr oder weniger lange Strecke ohne Stützmaterial (Brücke) zu drucken, wird zunächst eine (manchmal auch mehrere) Lage an Filamentsträngen gedruckt, die dann als Basis für die gewohnten diagonalen Linien dient.

    Je nach Material, Drucker, Druckeinstellungen (und natürlich Brückenlänge) kann die unterste Brückenschicht auch mehr oder weniger durchhängen.

    Umgehen läßt sich das -meines Wissens- nur mit Stützstruktur.

     

    Grüße

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