Oliveros

So here we go, very similar to PETG. I used Owens idea of hollowing the center and that makes it survive the snap. I did a seperate post on it but wanted to respond here as well. Here's a shot of it.

Thanks, I'll give it a go, I'm also printing it face down on the bed since it's the strongest when oriented that way.

Some pictures On the bed. Cleaned up. One problem I'm having is right here, it's not remaining smooth for some reason and is very prone to cracking right in that area. Then there seems to be some sort of layer shift or something but the objects did not move on the bed. Installed Little bit of flex Lots of stringing and the layer shift is a problem I need to solve.

Hey Guys, I'm trying to get a smooth layer of bottom of the attached part, for some reason when I print it won't get smooth. I'm using blue tape, bed is 45*C and glue stick. Nozzle is 0.4 MM, printing at 0.1 MM layer height, temp is 230*C I believe. In interview frame 20 MM Insert.obj

Hey Guys. I've now gone through PETG, Nylon 6 and Colorfabb HT for my specific application. Most recently, Colorfabb HT which is what I'm using now. From what I can tell, it's very, very similar to PETG in terms of how it performs, when it gets hot and wet, it does not flex very much but it seems to hold it's form very well, I haven't seen any deforming or warping yet. I'm running my parts through a commercial dishwasher with max temps of 190*F and getting showered. Unlike Nylon 6 which becomes extremely flexible, this material seems to remain rigid, though it does become slightly more flexible when hot, but not too much. My printer is acting up, per it's original specs, it can do 250*C print and 100*C bed, after speaking to tech support, they said I can safely run it up to about 280*C and the bed can be upwards of 120-130*C. There was quite some speculation on the bed adhesion and apparently this material can be tricky. For some reason, if I set my nozzle temp to 265*C, it won't get there, it'll get to about 262*C and then back off, BUT if I set it to 260*C it can overshoot all the way up to 270*C so I know it can get there, perhaps some sort of safety is preventing it to do it when I want it to, I'm not sure. I ended up printed at 260*C and getting the bed to 110*C and it works pretty good. From my limited experience, it's not very difficult to get it to stick, much like anything else where I use glue stick, it dries really fast if the bed is hot, I'm starting out with the bed cold, pretty good layer of glue stick, dry or wet, doesen't matter, then once it starts printing, I manually turn the bed up to 110*C and by the time it gets there, the first layer is down and that will help prevent it from warping. My Z offset is calibrated to be close to the bed where if you were to have a piece of paper under the nozzle, it leaves drag marks on the paper, that was per the manufactures recommendation and after doing that, I have much better adhesion across all materials (PLA, PETG, Nylon) I'm not going for clarity of aesthetics with these parts so I'm not using the material in the way it COULD be with the very clear prints, I'm doing 0.3 layer height with a 0.4 MM nozzle and speed is 50MM/S I believe or something of the sort, run it full speed from the get go and it seems to do just fine. I'll probably try to get some crystal clear prints today just to see if I can do it. I did a 13 hour print overnight, 4 of the parts on the bed and it went just fine, nothing got knocked loose, I'll post some pictures of it later. If anybody has any ideas on how to get my nozzle to run hotter, It would be awesome, it's a Monoprice Ultimate 2

Cool, I guess we'll see. I'm waiting for mine, USPS is taking FOREVER.

Geert2, Yes, that is an option as well, I have considered it but that'll be a last resort. Bimnrd Awesome, I'll be getting mine today so we'll see how it goes. I personally like Nylon a lot, but from my experience, the water makes it very flexible, at least Kodak 6 nylon, I think their Nylon 12 is much less hygroscopic but I haven't tried it yet, but I plan to. There's also carbon fiber reinforced nylon out there, perhaps NylonX is that, I'm not sure.

Good to know, my roll is coming tomorrow so I'll be working with it right away. PETG currently sticks really well on my bed with Z offset I have with a little bit of glue stuck so this stuff should stick as well, but we'll see. I'm excited so see how it turns out.

Very true. Perhaps this would work for you? https://ht.colorfabb.com/ I'm getting a roll of it tomorrow but that stuff supposedly is not very flexible, wet or dry.

Nylon is flexible if you soak it in water, when it's dry it's not very flexible. As long as you are not having Nylon in a wet envoirement, I doubt it'll flex. Kodak 6 is pretty stiff until you soak it in hot water, then if you leave it in an air conditioned room, it slowly returns to it's not wet state and becomes more solid again.

Yeah, it won't allow you to do just the holes though, sorry buddy.

Up your wall count and the hole walls will get thicker.

Based on my experience with the Z-offset, having the nozzle where it's squishing a little bit works good for PETg and Nylon. My printer in the new software update comes with a Z-offset option so I'm using that and it works great.

Really. It has a habbit of slipping off and not sticking?

Cool. Well, I got a roll of the clear stuff coming so I'll give it a go. What temp you print at? Bed temp? Bed adhesion? (Blue tape, glass, do you use glue?) Z offset? Thank you.

Hey everyone, Has anyone tried using Kodaks Nylon 12? I've used their Kodak 6 which is awesome so far, probably the filament I like the most out of PETG, ABS and PLA. Nylon 12 has the added benefit of being food safe and other traits that supposedly make it superior to Kodak 6 and I'm trying to get some feedback on it.

YEs, I did see them. Very nice. How is the smoothness of the surfaces across the layer?

Wow, that does look very similar to Nylon. What is the layer height you are using here?

I can't see the pictures, are you able to upload them directly to the site?

I have a Monoprice Ultimate 2 and Monoprice ABS.

I tried printing ABS on my printer and it was a nightmare, apart from that, I don't like the ABS layer look so much as it's not as clean as it could be.

Okay, so it's as flexible as PETG, I can work with that. Does it warp below it's HDT or only during printing? I have a heated bed and an enclosed printer with doors to minimize drafts so hopefully that helps.

Ace, Is the HT flexible at all? In comparison to PETG and Nylon?

The difference I would think is that nylon still maintains a certain amount of ridgidness, more than I can imagine rubber would. I have no experience with TPU so I can't compare. I like Nylon, it makes really nice prints with a very smooth texture, much better than ABS or PETG.

I can tell you for sure the nylon i've used (Kodak 6) becomes extremely flexible once exposed to water. I put it through a dishwasher and I could bend it easily any way I wanted and it would spring back in place. Once it got wet, It never went back to being as ridgid as it was once it left the printer. Apparently, the more water it absorbs the more flexible it becomes until it's saturated. It didn't seem any less strong, just way more flexible.