Oliveros

I pulled the Quadro out and cleaned it off and then put it back in, in a different slot this time to make sure it wasn't a bad connection in the former slot, it then showed up as functioning properly but when I tried to start Cura it crashed, I tried to start it again and it crashed and then it came up as not working again, so it seems there's an issue with that GPU for sure. Just not sure what to do from here.

So the one that stopped working is the Quadro 4000 BUT in speaking to my co-worker we never had our monitors plugged into that unit, only the 8800GT is what we plugged into. So how does that work?

That would make sense, LEt me see if I can get the name of the other one here and perhaps we can fix it? Is there a way to fix that other GPU? It said Code 43 that being why it stopped it.

As another note, I ran a memory diagnostics or troubleshooting or whatever it's called and it came up with nothing wrong, when I looked in the devices the only thing showing an issue with anything was that graphics card that we removed. Now I don't see anything wrong, I've had Cura for some months and this is the only time we've had this issue, seemed a week or 2 after compatibility mode showed up, the first Blue Screen Of Death showed up, but its not always happening and happens so far when I open either sketchup or Cura and it happens right away, not in the middle of working, it's while the program is starting.

Well, it turns out there was 2 graphics card, 1 of which wasn't working but it wasn't being used anyways so we pulled it out, it didn't crash when we opened Cura or Sketchup (which it did prior to this, but not every time) BUT Cura still opens in Comparability mode on either 3.3 or 4.3, I'm attaching a word doc of both for the one instance where it opens in the log. Allright, I attached a ZIP file with the word document in the Zip file for 1 instance of starting cura 4.3 where it goes into compatability mode, it does it every time now. I also attached the same for Cura 3.3 in case that helps, 3.3 also goes into compatability mode. Cura 4.3 Error Log into partial.zip Cura 3.3 Error Log into partial.zip

Sorry for the delay, the computer is actually crashing now when I open Sketchup at random times it crashes and I get the blue screen. It's a Mac running bootcamp with Windors 7, 64 bit. Graphics is an Nvidia GEForce8800 GT and it's driver version is 341.05 which I'm going to update now to the 342.01 and see what happens. Thank you for the assistance.

I've yet to have the need to revert to tap and die for making threads, looking closer at your picture, it seems the thread started out fine at the base and slowly worsened as it went up further. I've seen some materials act odd when printed vertically, as the head moves around it moves the piece with it and so you get very uneven layers, perhaps something like that is happening here? Causing it to be an uneven thread.

Okay, got it. Based on my experience, I print threads with a layer height of 0.1 and 0.2 and 0.3, I just finished a print with rather large threads but they are exactly how they should be, per the model. The only thing I can imagine is some sort of wipe or other type of setting that's messing it up in Cura, you could try running a blank setting parameter for whatever plastic or the "default" without any special settings. In a smaller pitch like what you are doing, print it vertical with the head down and print like mentioned above with small layer height, run 100% cooling if possible, at least for when the thread begins, no support, it'll do it and keep the temp in the higher band of the material as to offset bad layer adhesion caused by rapid cooling. I've successfully done this in Nylon 6, Nylon 12, ABS, PLA and PETG, depending on the material and size, cooling may be necessary or might not be needed.

I've printed a variety of threads, I use Cura as well but I find it's mainly in the design process you determine what your thread will look like. I use Sketchup for my drawings, including to draw threads using various tools but I've matched 1/2"-13 thread perfectly as well as any other thread I've had a need to, including pump threads. I printed parts with this and it works every time. A couple of things I've figured out strictly in Cura is that you have to print without support or at least support block your threads to minimize the imperfections in the thread. It's also common to "cut" the tip of the thread on the male side to that it doesen't go in all the way, I've done it both ways and either worked. The angle I don't think is coming from your printer or Cura, I think your model is doing that as it's simply too perfect to be a problem with the printer or slicer. I don't know how Fusion 360 or Solid Works makes their threads but I know in sketchup I draw the profile of the thread myself and then "follow me" around a helix curve with a set radius, amount of segments, turns, and any tapering. That gives me total control of the thread and how it looks when it's done. I just recently printed a larger 1/2" X 13 bolt for a customer out of nylon 6 without supports, which was put in a drilled out and tapped hole to 1/2"-13 Without blabbering on, I think your problem is in the model, not the slicer and not the printer.

I've used the silk form of Red and Gold and both have really, really good surface finish at 0.1 MM layer height. Granted I use 1.75MM filament that's what I know and have experience with but It's awesome stuff.

Hey guys. I'm running the latest Cura on a Mac with bootcamp windows and I've been using it for some months now, not connected to the internet or anything so I'm not sure how this changed all of a sudden, Cura all of a sudden went into compatibility mode, the box is not checked in the settings so I'm not sure why it's doing it, anyone know? I've had no problems until now.

Nevermind, I guess i'm just too impatient. It ended up installing just fine and works. Thanks though.

Hey Guys, I'm trying to install mesh mixer on Windows just to add another tool to my arsenal, but it currently starts the install and the green install bar stalls about 1/4 through and stops moving, there's no indication anything's happening or that there is a problem, it just seems to be "installing" I'm wondering if internet is required to install it, the computer I model on is off the grid so internet won't be an option for it but since it seems to be a full installer and not just a web client install, I figured it would work. Anybody know why it might be stalling or what I can do?

Happened to me more times than I'm comfortable to admit. Not with an Ultimaker printer but with the 3 Monoprice Ultimate's I've had. It happens if a print is knocked loose from the bed and the filament is extruded into the air, depending on what happens, normally the filament starts to build up on the head and it just keeps going until the print is "done". I've had it encase the entirety of the extruder heat, not just the nozzle or heating block but the entire thing, one of the first prints I attempted when I was just starting out, put it in overnight. It was an absolute mess. I just heated the nozzle and pulled what I could off, then removed the nozzle and scraped the remainder, most of it isn't melted to anything, it's just been pushed up against other cold surfaces during the "print" and should come off relatively easy, it's the stuff on the nozzle that you need to heat up to remove.

Yes, I'm well aware, lol. That sounds about right, if you hover over the setting, it will explain it a little.

It's under the supports section, just hover over the settings but it's something to do with distance between the model and the support, something gap I believe it is.

I print nylon with nylon supports, I don't have a problem removing the supports. Make sure you set the gap to be big enough so they don't fuse together.

Yes, for me at least. I had problems with layer seperation, poor adhesion and just poor quality overall, turning up the temp did it for me.

I had this problem and I turned up my printing temp, now it prints like a dream, even watertight prints.

Good to know, Well, I tried Nylon 6 which seems to work pretty well, Imitating a 1/2" X 20 bolt.

Hey guys, I'm wanting to get a hardened steel nozzle for my Monoprice Ultimate 2 printer, I've only used brass until now with PLA, wood PLA, PETG, Nylon 6, Nylon 12, Colorfabb HT, Ninjatek Armadillo and I think some other odds and ends but I want to get the right nozzle for Nylon and those abrasive types of filaments. I'm looking into getting some Carbon fiber PETg which I believe a hardened nozzle is a must or the brass will die in no time so I set out to find my nozzle thread pitch and size which Monoprice couldn't tell me because they didn't know. The pitch is 1MM and the diameter is 5.85MM so it seems like a nominal 6MM thread which seems common for nozzles. Then I see these MK6,8 and 10 hot end types and I got confused? Does it matter? What I was looking at getting, mainly to make sure I got the thread right is this https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Hardened-Makerbot-Creality-CraftBot/dp/B07MDWXV77/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=3D+printing+hardened+nozzle+M6&qid=1580063519&s=hi&sr=8-1 It says it's for an MK8 and it looks similar to what I currently have in terms of overall length, I'm sure I'll have to mess with the Z-offset once I stick it in but I don't mind that, I just want to make sure it'll work but I'm not sure what the "MK" signifies other than the hot end model? Any help would be appreciated.

I'm wanting to print some bolts or threaded rods and I'm wondering what the best filament is for this application. I've done it in PLA before and it works pretty good, I've also done Nylon and that also works pretty good but I'm worried that nylons flexibility won't lead to the best thread, perhaps PETG is a better choice? What's the general preferred material for strong threads?

Interesting. Well, I guess i'll have to collect me some CF infused filaments now, since not one is the best, I'll have to get them all 😄

Interesting, okay awesome. I'm thinking the CF infused PETG would be the most useful?

That might not be wise to print with Nylon then. There's high temp PLA's out there which can do upwards of around 100*C Can't remember the name but I know it exists. Nylon or any descendant of nylon I think will be out of the question due to warpage, perhaps someone else is better than I am with Nylon and can work around it but I can't do large prints. ABS was also a nightmare for me.