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scottmg

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  1. Here's a part I threw in as a test. The test.failed.3mf fails every time I try. I turn on adaptive layers and it slices in a second. Turn adaptive layers back off, and it never completes. No CPU activity, just sits there (see image below). Adaptive layers isn't the key, lots of settings will break it, lots fix it; I don't see the pattern yet. I cleared out the log, tried the one that fails, attached the project and log. Then I closed Cura, cleared the log, reloaded, tried the one that succeeds, and attached that project and log. I still have Cura 4.5 installed al
  2. I have Cura 4.5 and 4.8 both installed. After switching to 4.8, this happens to me all the time - there is definitely something wrong with 4.8. It'll be slicing just fine, then I'll change a setting, and then the slicing never completes. I change the setting back, and it slices again. It seems many settings can trigger the break - nozzle width, compensate wall overlaps, adaptive layers, etc. I haven't come up with a common theme yet. When this happens I'll either change settings until it works again, or just go back to 4.5. This is so frequent for me I
  3. Yes, you got it. As I mentioned I believe linear advance in Marlin is intended to help, but I've never seen anything that leads me to believe the Ultimaker supports those codes. I've tried turning up the acceleration and jerk settings so that it flies faster through turns, but the effect seems pretty marginal. It might make for larger files, but this seems like it could be something fixed in Cura as well. I guess maybe it's time to look into creating a plugin myself. Thanks for the info. Scott
  4. Imagine printing a 'T' shape. The skin for the current layer is printed along the middle of the T (|||||). So as it's printing there's a short up and down path at the top of the T, and a long up and down path through the main part. When printing the short path, constant back and forth, it's too thick. When printing the long path, it's too thin. I assume this is what linear advance/flow compensation is for. But I've experienced this to some extent with just about every printer and material I've owned. The printers that support linear advance seem to have minor improvements, b
  5. I experimented with lots of materials. A good chunk was Onyx (beautiful stuff, not as stiff as I'd like) printed on another printer. The tension arm and base were 3dxtech carbon fiber polycarbonate. For the gear Polymaker CoPA (Nylon 6 + Nylon 6,6). That's a story in an of itself. Making a proper involute gear is a pain, https://geargenerator.com/ was very helpful. I tried, repeatedly, to get a good one out of acetal. I'm pretty sure that stuff can warp the fabric of spacetime. I even have an old Makerbot converted with a heated chamber that will go up to about 75c, and sti
  6. Here's a test print with the custom feeder that finished a bit ago. The photo isn't great, the Carbon Fiber PETG (3dxtech) is doing funny things with the light. But I'm very pleased, it looks great. Even the threads inside look good. Maybe a bit over-extruded, but that's easily fixed.
  7. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4235488 The most expensive parts are the BondTech gears ($27 USD), bearings ($12), and push-to-fit connectors ($16 for a pack of 10). I listed my source for the hardware, bulk (packs of 25-100 pieces) stainless hardware, and that's pretty expensive if you go that route. If you can go to a local hardware store, you could probably finish it up for around $10, so you're looking at $65 USD. So unless you're a hobbyist, the reality is the bondtech ones are probably better for a little bit more money. But if anyone is still interested, it
  8. I'm sure I'm not the first to do this, but I designed and created my own feeder for the UM3 that's a bolt-on replacement for the existing feeder. So far it's worked great. It uses Bondtech gears (the whole purpose was so I could print abrasive filament without worry). If anyone is interested, I can clean a few things up and post .stl files and the source designs (Sketchup 8 (not exactly modern, but free)). You'll have to buy some of your own hardware (gears, a few bolts, a couple bearings, push-to-connect fitting). And obviously it would be an unsupported, DIY, at-
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