GregValiant

The function in the app is a post processor so it: Opens the gcode file you choose You make the settings as you want (the "profile") within the dialog box. When you hit the "Create" button it writes a new gcode file with your fan "profile" written into it. The profile settings doesn't actually save anywhere so once you close the app those particular settings are forgotten. Cura 5.7beta has "Advanced Cooling Fan Control" which is the same thing as that app has but it is a true post-processor. Go to "Extensions / Post Processing / Modify Gcode" and then "Add Script" and it will be in the list. With ABS or other materials that are prone to warping - "By Layer" works best. It is also better for small prints. If you use "By Feature" on small prints then the fan speed can bounce up and down constantly rather than giving an even speed. "By Feature" works well on big prints or for situations where you just want cooling for skins or maybe support-interface. The Cura post processor looks like this:

Hi folks. I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents since it definitely is a CAD thing. That particular model is made up of 25 separate pieces and they don't appear to have been properly merged prior to export from CAD. In fact, 23 of the pieces have no volume at all, just 1 or 2 faces. That's 23 non-watertight entities in the model. (They are more like single cell organisms than printable models.) The only two parts that are relevant are the "bell" and the "cylinder". They should be designed as a single piece but merging two parts is fine when it's done correctly. If that model was a simple "Revolve" with 8 holes in the flange then all the model problems go away. Which leads to a much better slice. I print a lot of PETG and my normal print speed is 50. If I want nice shiny outer walls I drop those to 35. Just sayin'.

As you have found, Cura doesn't actually support IDEX printers as there is no native support for the "U" and "V" axes. That means many things have to be configured as workarounds. What do you have the "Raft Extruders" set to? If the Raft Extruders are mixed with some of it T0 and maybe the top surface as T1 then there can be a problem that might be dependent on where the model is on the build surface.

I don't think the problem here is in One-at-a-Time but rather the "Slicing Tolerance" being set to "Exclusive". @rburema the original project file in this thread will show the problem. I found that setting the slicing tolerance to "Middle" made the problem go away. (The "Layer Height" of the project is 0.2 and the Raft Air Gap is 0.3). Exclusive and Raft Air Gap of 0.3: Middle and Raft Air Gap of 0.3,

There are settings that can make the area small because Cura can decide it needs to reserve the space for something. "Avoid Printed Parts when Traveling" is one. If you have "Prime Tower" enabled or are using a Skirt/Brim/Raft or if you have "Generate Support" enabled then the area can be smaller. For an UltiMaker it appears that just changing the material can effect the Max Model Size. Generally, if there is a gray border around the bed it is caused by either a setting, or (for some printers) a disallowed area. With the settings just right you can slice a model that is 0.2mm less than the build plate X Y.

This is odd. I opened the 3mf in MS 3D Builder and it showed errors. Cura and PrusaSlicer both sliced the models as if they had errors. I exported the models from Cura as an STL file and surprisingly the exported models don't show any errors in either MS 3D Builder or when uploaded to https://formware.co/OnlineStlRepair. In addition, after clearing the build plate and then importing the "exported" models they sliced fine. The bottom line here is that once again I'm clueless. I'll guess and say that something happened to the models during translation which caused them to slice incorrectly and re-translating the files fixed the error...but I don't know if that is true. This is the report from the Formware site regarding the "exported" STL file. Everything is copacetic. -> Analysed your file: --> 0 Naked edges (?) --> 0 Planar holes (?) --> 0 Non-planar holes (?) --> 0 Non-manifold edges (?) --> 0 Inverted faces (?) --> 0 Degenerate faces (?) --> 0 Duplicate faces (?) --> 0 Disjoint shells (?) -> Repairing: 100.00% ----- Repair completed in 2123ms ------ -> Vertex count changed from 2391 to 2391 (+0) -> Triangle count changed from 4794 to 4794 (+0) The surfaces bothered to show up.

The models have errors. Mesh Tools picks out open seams really well (non-watertight) but finding "flipped surfaces" and/or duplicate surfaces is a challenge. This is the file opened in MS 3D Builder. All three models have errors. Flipped surfaces and duplicate surfaces will cause a slicer to get confused and skip layers. This is in PrusaSlicer. You can see that the layers are missing or incomplete. Meanwhile, back in Cura, once the model is repaired (MS 3D Builder) it slices as you would expect.

The blue polka-dot pattern indicates errors in the model. Mesh Tools couldn't fix it. The errors are severe enough that trying to fix it will make the eyes go away. This one needs to go back to CAD for repair.

Just make sure you put the "G92 Z" line at the beginning of the one-at-a-time file. That file needs to be fooled into thinking its on the build plate. I suppose if you have ABL it might automatically adjust. A test print wouldn't hurt.

I don't think so. Each model is an entity within it's own bounding box and the brim belongs to the specific model. If the brims touch then Cura will see the models as interfering with each other. The M32 command can call a gcode from within another gcode file. By changing the Home Offsets between each call you can change where the print will be on the build plate. ;Print a base that is a 1 layer print and covers the build surface. At the end of that gcode use M32 to call a second file. That second file wouldn't need a full startup gcode and definitely wouldn't need an ending gcode. M206 X0 Y0 M32 P !/models/lgbust.gco# ; The file name here might have to be the DOS 8.3 short file name. M206 X33 Y0 ;Move the Home Offset M32 P !/models/lgbust.gco# M206 X66 Y0 ;Move the Home Offset M32 P !/models/lgbust.gco# M206 X100 Y0 ;Move the Home Offset M32 P !/models/lgbust.gco# M206 X0 Y33 ;Move the Home Offset M32 P !/models/lgbust.gco# M206 X33 Y33 ;Move the Home Offset etc, etc, etc Keep moving the Home Offset and calling the second file ("lgbust.gco" in this example). The # sign on the end of the line acts like an M400 so there isn't a "read ahead" past the M32. Understand that although I've played with M32 and it works on my printer, I've never done a print that repeats like that. Another option would be to print the huge brim first and then print the "one at a time" file on top of it. With the nozzle at Z=0.2 a G92 Z0 in the gcode would move the second print up.

The StartUp Gcode is very machine dependent. I used to have separate printers for PLA, PETG and TPU because I wanted different StartUp's depending on the material and speeds. With the StartUp now able to handle logic I'm taking advantage. This makes adjustments to the StartUp per the current Cura settings. That makes it ambidextrous and I now only have one printer defined. ;--------------------------StartUp Gcode G21 ; Metric Units G90 ; Absolute Movement M82 ; Absolute Extrusion M220 S100 ; Reset FeedRate M221 S100 ; Reset FlowRate M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating the bed {'M104 S175 ; Standby while bed heats' if material_bed_temperature_layer_0 > 65 else ';M104 ; No standby'} {'M190 S' if material_bed_temperature_layer_0 > 65 else 'M140 S'}{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Bed wait if over 65 M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Hot End Temperature G92 E0 ; Reset E G28 X Y ; Home XY axes G1 F2700 Z10.0 ; Move Z G0 F{speed_travel*60} X1.0 Y20 Z0.3 ; Move G1 F{speed_print*60*2/3} X1.0 Y200.0 E15 ; First purge line G0 F{speed_travel*60} X3.0 Y200.0 ; Move G1 F{speed_print*60*2/3} X3.0 Y20 E30 ; Second purge line {";G1 F" if "TPU" in material_type else "G1 F"}{retraction_retract_speed*60} E28 ; Retract if not TPU G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 F2700 Z12.0 ; Move Z Axis up G4 S1 ; Wait for booger to solidify G0 F{speed_travel*60} X3.0 Y35 Z.35 ; Move over G0 F{speed_travel*60} X3 Y50 Z0.35 ; Wipe ;--------------------------End of StartUp

It isn't an override as such. The keywords in the StartUp tell Cura that the temperatures are being handled. When that is the case the automatic "Prepend" doesn't get inserted.

Unfortunately "One at a Time" is not available for multi-extruder printers when more than a single extruder is enabled. You would need to disable Extruder 2. If you happen to be using Extruder 2 for a model or for support then you are out of luck.

Go to "Manage Printers" and "Machine Settings". You want to edit the "StartUp G-Code". Cura will always put the heating commands in if there are no "replacement patterns" in the startup. This is based on the Ender 3 Startup Gcode. My changes are in bold. ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder M220 S100 ; Reset the feed rate M221 S100 ; Reset the flow rate M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating the bed M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating the nozzle G28 ; Home all axes G0 F600 Z5 ; Move up to ooze M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for the bed M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for the nozzle G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish" ;End of StartUp The "reset" lines are in case you happened to tune a previous print from the LCD. They set the printer back to the default 100% feed and flow rates.

"...as Cura printed them in the order I had loaded or copied them." And it did work that way UNTIL you moved them around by height or some personal criteria, or deleted one, or added one after multiplying others. There were a lot of ways to get different ordering and straightening it out was a lot of effort.

Cura uses different keywords as variable names in the StartUp and Ending Gcodes than Prusa does. Cura also uses {curly} brackets around the keywords where Prusa uses [square] brackets. AHoeben has put together the list of Cura keywords HERE. The startups and endings will be close, but because the keywords and brackets are different they won't be the same.

You must have been lucky because prior to 5.7beta there has not been a way to adjust the print order in One-at-a-Time. It's been a source of aggravation for a lot of people. In 5.7beta, when you set the Print Sequence to One-at-a-Time a new setting comes up below it. When "Set Print Sequence Manually" is enabled then select a model from the object list in the lower left corner of the work space and right click on it. There will be two new options at the bottom of the right-click menu. They are basically "Move it up" and "Move it down" controls. I haven't played with it much, but it looks like it works. I don't know how much fun it would be if you had 50 models on the build plate that you wanted in an exact order. For the four I used in the example it was quick.

"No signs of lifting so far." How did it go?

Tuning the feedrate at the printer is fine but adjusting the speed with the Cura settings makes it automatic. You won't have to babysit the print. PLA isn't very prone to warping. That print in your image has really lifted severely. It is more of what I would expect PETG to do. My best guess is that it simply isn't sticking to the bed (even with the brim). When you get settled with the current print, load the model into Cura, set up the slice, and then use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here.

Take the build surface off. Clean it well with dish detergent, put it back in place and wipe it down with 90% isopropyl alcohol. "Bed Leveling" (which should be called "Setting the Initial Z gap") is a big part of getting the first layer to stick. Unlike other layers that go down an exact distance above a previous layer, the thickness of the Initial Layer is totally dependent on the initial Z gap. If it is too tall it creates under-extrusion and consequently, sticking problems. I don't know where you are adjusting the percentage. There really isn't any reason to do that. In the "Speed" section is "Number of Slower Layers". Set that to 1 or 2 and the "Initial Layer Print Speed" setting will be available. The units are mm/sec. Try at 25 with a clean build surface. When I'm printing something with lettering on the build plate (or anything in PETG) I use AquaNet Super Hold hairspray as an adhesion promoter. There are specialty items just for that (Magi-goo comes to mind). @gr5 has a video he might share. I call it "Everything you ever wanted to know about bed adhesion". It is pretty all-inclusive. FYI - I print PLA in the range of 200 (white) to 215 (silky) with the bed at 50. If the bed is too hot (close to or above the "glass temperature" of the material) the first few layers will be deformed and elephant foot is a problem. 60 is the normal build plate temperature for PLA. I've printed these carburetor covers a few times. Two "Pause at Height's" allow me to change filament for a couple of layers and the lettering appears a different color.

I'd print it with "Ryobi" down. The designer was nice enough to provide chamfers of 45° on those screw ears. That was done so they wouldn't need support. When letters are on the build plate like that they need good bed adhesion and good flow or they can look sloppy because they are on the first layer. You should print the "Initial Layer" slower as well. Consider that the 90° grinder is going to hang in front of the word anyway. You won't notice. This is with supports disabled. All the pieces are designed so they don't need supports.

There are a lot of extruders but they need to be related to what they are going to be used for. wall_extruder_nr wall_0_extruder_nr wall_x_extruder_nr roofing_extruder_nr top_bottom_extruder_nr infill_extruder_nr support_extruder_nr support_infill_extruder_nr support_extruder_nr_layer_0 support_interface_extruder_nr support_roof_extruder_nr support_bottom_extruder_nr skirt_brim_extruder_nr adhesion_extruder_nr raft_base_extruder_nr raft_interface_extruder_nr raft_surface_extruder_nr The way it is written is that a "Wall" is a wall but can be refined to Outer Wall (0) and Inner Wall (x). A Top/Bottom is a Skin but a Skin isn't necessarily a Top Bottom. I'm not seeing a bug, it's the way it works. Flexible definitions for a niche situation would make a mess for a lot of people. Unfortunately you can't really post process or hand edit your gcode because of the difference in nozzle sizes. All the extrusions would be at an incorrect volume.

Bring in a Support Blocker. Scale it and position it where it will affect the top layer. Set it to the extruder with the small nozzle. Make it 1 layer thick and when positioned correctly it should only affect the top layer. In the "Per Model" settings set the blocker as a Cutting Mesh. This is the top layer with a 0.2 nozzle. This is the layer below with a 1.0 nozzle. Here the blocker is only covering a portion of the top layer.

In general - no. But everything affects everything. Material, print temperature, Accel and Jerk settings, retraction distance and retraction speed, geometry of the model, length of travel moves, combing...a lot of things come into play. #1 is probably retraction distance. For materials like PETG the print temperature can be very important. Too hot and PETG wants to drool all over. Too cold and layer adhesion suffers and the prints aren't as strong. All you can do is try to dial them in the best you can. If you have a bowden printer you should keep an eye on how much the bowden tube slides in and out of the lock fittings on the extruder and hot end. It can develop a millimeter of slop on both ends so your original retract distance of (for example) 6mm is seriously affected because 2mm might be just the bowden moving in the fittings. Instead of the filament pulling back from the nozzle 6mm it may only be pulling back 4mm. Trimming back both ends of the bowden by about 6mm every 30 or 40 print hours is a good idea. Bowden tubes are considered "consumable" parts. If you were to print a box, there wouldn't be much stringing. If you are printing something like a table with the legs in the air the chances of stringing being a problem are much higher. Any model that develops "islands" while it is printing is going to present challenges. That's true even when the islands happen to be support structures.

It's hard to work from images. A project file would be much preferable. If you have "Coasting" enabled turn it off and see if it makes a difference.