GregValiant

You can over-ride the "Material" settings in the Cura Material Settings main window. If you have "Initial Layer Print Temperature" set to 240 in your "setting profile" then that is what will be used. At the end of LAYER:0 there will be an M104 line that will set "Print Temperature" for the rest of the print. Next to the main Material Settings "Print Temperature" box there might be one or two icons. If the "Print Temperature" setting has been un-linked from what you have in the Material File then one of those icons (the circular arrow) will re-link it. If the words "Print Temperature" are in italic font then there is an over-ride in place. "Initial Layer Print Temperature" may have become un-linked from "Print Temperature" as well. Cura is pulling those numbers from either the material file, or from the setting box. It doesn't make them up. The gcode shows those temperatures in the "prepend" section so Cura is picking the temperatures from a setting. A project file would show exactly what setting they are coming from. The icon to the right of the "Search Settings" box is the visibility tool. Click on it and set the visibility to "All". Then check the material section and see what you have for "Print Temperature" and "Initial Layer Print Temperature". The other two boxes "Initial Printing Temperature" and "Final Printing Temperature" are only used by multi-extruder printers.

Take a look in the "Quality" folder in Cura. There will be a sub-folder for Elegoo machines. It might take some trial and error (maybe lots of errors) but you should be able to duplicate a Quality file and with a couple of changes make one that will cover the HIPS material.

Go to your Cura installation folder (in Windows it's "C:\Program Files\UltiMaker Cura 5.4.0\share\cura\resources\definitions") and open the "elegoo_base.def.json" file in a text editor. You will see this section: "exclude_materials": [ "generic_nylon", "generic_hips", "generic_bvoh", "generic_cpe", "generic_pc", "generic_pva", "generic_pvc" ], Delete that line and save the file. When you update Cura you might have to do it again.

I tried to fix that model. There is still some wonkiness in the bottom of the logo, but the top and bottom surfaces are now planar parallel so it's better. I'd print it as Obewan suggested, but here it is the way you liked it. This is a good model for Normal supports. When you open the 3mf you can just bring in the model. If you open it as a project then your printer may be over-written. GV BB Cover I14 Pro.3mf

"Or do you recommend another 3 D tool which is so easy to use?" I don't think any of them are "easy to use". I like MS 3D Builder but it's a Windows program so if you are on MAC or Linux it isn't an option. I've tried other software and there are problems with the leaving openings (non-watertight) or jagged edges. 3D Builder is not very intuitive, but it gets the job done for me and leaves a nice clean result. It also has "Subtract", "Merge" and "Intersect" tools so you can customize an existing STL. It does not have tools for adding chamfers or radii on edges. For that you must go back to a real CAD app. You can do it in builder but it is certainly no fun. Blender has it's fans. Mesh Mixer is also an option.

This is one of the side holes. You can see all the faceting, and that one long skinny triangle forms an extra surface. That makes it a tough slice. Here is the report from formware.co/OnLineSTLRepair --> 0 Naked edges (?) --> 0 Planar holes (?) --> 0 Non-planar holes (?) --> 133 Non-manifold edges (?) --> 177 Inverted faces (?) --> 8 Degenerate faces (?) --> 15 Duplicate faces (?) --> 0 Disjoint shells (?) -> Repairing: 100.00% ----- Repair completed in 9039ms ------ -> Vertex count changed from 13298 to 13994 (+696) -> Triangle count changed from 26886 to 28280 (+1394) Even after repair that small error remains. That tells me that it isn't affecting the integrity of the model, but it is affecting how it slices. I think this is what @obewan is referring to. Those areas on the left end are simply taller than the rest of the top. This slice is at 0.1 layer height. I used MS 3D Builder and subtracted .05mm off the top. You can see that the defect is gone. This is also at 0.1 layer height. You can see that this one is 125 layers and the one above is 126 layers. One more. This is the skin under the logo. The logo was at a slight angle when it was subtracted so one side goes down before the rest of it. Computers are dumb, but they are amazingly accurate so it wants to print the model it was given. Somehow, someway, the model got out of square.

There may be something going on with the model. If a defect is lower than 1 layer height then Cura may miss it. Lowering the layer height could catch it and Cura wants to print it that way. Use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. It will contain the model, your settings, and your printer. Sometimes a model can contain artifacts like that if the designer altered a model and wasn't careful when cleaning up from a previous design.

Hello. Sorry for my answer in English. This is a known bug but it's hard to reproduce. I have had models with those marks and yes, they make it into the gcode. With your project I don't get the problem and the slice looks like I would expect. This bug report on GitHub #16714 I believe is the same problem you are describing. The problem seems to be worse at an inside radius as Cura seems to jump from the end point of a line and skip the radius completely. 5.2.2 seems to be the best of the 5.x versions of Cura. I always start out with "The Latest Version" in order to be familiar with it, but I often revert to 4.13.1 which I like a lot.

Hello, I agree with @43915 that you have are issues with the settings. This is just me but when I start a new project I reset my setting profile (by re-selecting it and discarding changes) so I have a base to work from. I make all the settings visible and take my time going through them. In this case "Horizontal Hole Expansion" at 0.2 is acting on any area that is bounded all around (like the loop in the capital H). The "Outer Wall Inset" at 0.15 is causing the walls to move in by an additional 0.15 so the cross sections are 0.5mm narrower than they appear. Between those two settings the letters are getting really skinny and have become un-slicable. This is in 5.4.0. I cheated and dropped the line width for everything to .35 and the minimum line width to .28. If I was going to print this I would probably go with a 0.3 nozzle. Cheating on the line width is OK but you really don't get the squish you want for a good strong print. For this it would be fine. If you are going to print this in two colors I would advise to let the base color do the first layer of the letters, and then make the change. That will eliminate a lot of cleanup as the initial stringing (if any) will be the same color as the base. You might want to consider not using any "wipe distance" as these letters are pretty narrow and there really isn't anywhere to wipe to. Z-hops might be a good idea as well.

Good detectives dig deep.

I've taken to writing "niche" post processors and I happen to have one that you might find handy. I call it "Very Cool". I have found that a cool Support Interface releases from the print both easier and cleaner. So the Very Cool script: Retracts Lifts the nozzle 1mm Runs back and forth over the area bounded (approximately) by the skirt / brim with the fan running. It indexes 10mm in the X each pass. Then the print continues. It's part of this collection of 7 fairly useless (until you need them) post processors. Unzip the file and put it into your Configuration Folder in the "scripts" sub-folder. The settings are for the layer(s) you want it to run, the travel speed, the fan speed, and a second pass that would index in the Y. LittleUtilities.zip

Ah. That's better. In the Cura "Preferences" turn off "Automatically drop models to the build plate". In the "Mesh Fixes" settings make sure "Remove empty first layers" is disabled. That will allow you to move your model up off the build plate by any amount. With proper support structure it will print there. This is up 3mm.

The Z=0 is set by leveling. If the bed isn't flat, and all your mechanicals are always at 90° to each other and stay "in plane" while printing, then you really need to fix the bed because you have a hardware problem. You cannot print in the air. Some of the upscale ABL systems will compensate for an uneven bed over the first couple of layers so that by (call it) layer 3 the print is leveled out. There will be areas of over and under extrusion because of that. The reason is that the E values in the gcode were calculated for a level surface and not one where the Z keeps changing randomly. You need to address the bed problem. If the waviness is random it's tough but if you know the low spots then stick a custom cut-out piece of aluminum foil (or 3) under the magnetic surface to shim certain areas up. An alternative would be to go with a glass surface even if it's just for this one job.

A total of 24 hours for the 2 mounting brackets and 2 fin pieces printed in PETG. The front of the fin has 1 pause to insert nuts and 4 pauses for color changes. The back part has 1 pause for nuts, 6 pauses for color changes, and a pause to insert a 4mm steel reinforcing rod (to keep the model from warping in the Florida sun). There is also a gradual change in Y accel on the back part as my Ender needs to slow down on tall skinny parts. With the pauses, accel change, and my normal post processors running there was a total of 12 post processors in play for the rear part. The stars were printed separately and are glued into pockets in the blue section. The stars were printed "one at a time" (only because I had never used it to actually print something). Cooling was an issue on the stars but fortunately another custom post processor I call "Very Cool" worked quite well. It retracts, lifts, and then travels in a grid pattern across the top of the print with the fan running. It works really well on support-interfaces. Now, when St. Paula the Patient goes for groceries, she can find her vehicle in the parking lot when she comes back out.

10% is a lot. There is a new scaling setting in the Material Settings in Cura "Scaling Factor Shrinkage Compensation" and it is broken down into "Horizontal" which is the XY and "Vertical" which would affect the Z. Make sure that all are set to 100%. The only alternative would be to adjust the X and Y steps/mm. That pretty much never needs to be done. You would need to know the current steps and adjust them by 10% and experiment to dial it in. It's similar to calibrating the E-steps.

It appears that the speed change only affects the outer walls. G1 F3600 X121.031 Y105.758 E95.1551 > current speed of G1 moves G0 F7200 X121.031 Y105.778 ;MESH:NONMESH ..... ;TYPE:WALL-INNER ;MESH:OverhangTest.stl G1 X121.82 Y105.079 E95.48507 > These moves are at the last speed which is 3600 G1 X108.178 Y105.078 E95.71194 ..... ;TYPE:WALL-OUTER G1 F360 X122.22 Y104.679 E96.61206 > The speed changes here to 10% which is my setting for Overhang Speed. G1 X107.778 Y104.678 E96.85223 ..... ;TYPE:SKIN G1 F3600 X108.559 Y124.541 E97.64989 > back to full speed This is why things are listed as "Experimental". It seems to me that the Inner Wall should also be at the reduced speed. Since the setting only is enforced on unsupported areas I'll take a wild guess and say that it may be because my 45° chamfer allowed the inner walls to be supported by the layer below and so there was no need to change speeds.

@JimF2023 Do you have the "Printer Settings" plugin loaded (it's available in the MarketPlace) and do you have "Extruders Share Heater" and "Extruders Share Nozzle" enabled?

Ah Ha!! Another beta tester. What we have here is a proposed Post Processor that will do this and, as an added bonus (added during the University of Michigan football game yesterday) calculate the "Finish Print" time. Unzip the file and put "DisplayInfoOnLCD" into your Configuration Folder in the "scripts" folder. It will be available like any other post processor under "Extensions/Post Process/Modify Gcode" and then "Add a Script". Enter the "Time Fudge Factor" as a percentage as "Actual Print Time / Cura Estimate" so in your case the Fudge Factor would be 70%. Over time you can get it really close. The "Finish Print Time" pops up in a message box (when you save the gcode) and uses the Fudge Factor to calculate when the print will end, and adds 10 minutes (to get the print started). There is an option to turn the message off as it can get annoying when slicing and saving repeatedly. DisplayInfoOnLCD.zip The message looks a lot like this.

Welcome. The easiest way to have someone troubleshoot something is to provide a Cura project file. Load your model and set Cura up to slice. Use the "File | Save Project" command to create a special 3mf file that will contain the model, your settings, and your printer. Post the 3mf file here. Screenshots are good to. On Windows use "Shift + Print screen" and then click into your text window here and use CTRL-V to paste in the image. You should start a new thread and always be concise in your description of what is going on that is wrong, or that you just don't like or understand. Someone will take a look.

"I have been making completely useless trinkets/models..." I think that's how everyone starts out. But it's all printing and gaining experience and they can sure help with the learning curve. Nice job on the mech. I wouldn't say it's particularly useful, but it seems to have come out very well. Now design some motors, some linkages, and a Radio Control unit into it.

EDIT: This response was to an off-topic question so it has been moved to another thread.

"You have a Z height to purge at x00 y00,can they be given an X Y value" The Z height to purge is: If the nozzle is below 12mm then move up 12mm to purge. If the nozzle is already above 12mm then move up 2mm just to clear the part for the move and then purge. Enter whatever you want in the X and Y boxes. If you were to enter X230 Y230 then the purge location would be near the right rear corner.

Gr5 was off a bit there. The speeds and accelerations in the Printer Settings are used by Cura to put limits on the settings you can enter into the boxes elsewhere in the program. If you have the Maximum Z Speed set to 10 in Printer Settings and you put in a Z-hop speed of 20 up in the Speed section then Cura will refuse to slice. Cura uses the actual print and travel speeds that you enter in the Speed section to calculate the print time. There was no way to utilize a purge tower in post process so the script just moves the head to a corner and purges there and then retracts. I figured since it only does a purge on a major change and not while doing a gradient it would be OK (if not great). In a sidenote - your Geeetech is running the same Marlin firmware version as my Ender 3 Pro.

The individual files need to be in the correct folder or Cura won't be able to find them. Within the Zip file that MariMakes posted is a folder named "variants". Within that folder are the nozzle files. Copy the seven LK5Pro nozzles from that file to the "variants" folder within your Cura Configuration folder. You can find that folder by using the "Help | Show Configuration Folder" command in Cura. On my Windows system it's: "C:\Users\...username...\AppData\Roaming\cura\5.4\variants" They should show up in Cura under "Settings | Extruder 1 | Nozzle Size" like so.

I had some minor input on the "World's Fastest Goldwing" project and I always wanted to get out there but I never have. My son has a 1982 Suzuki GS850 that he wants to do as a "dustbin" bike. It will look like a Bonneville racer (if he ever gets it finished).