GregValiant

Yeah, you can enter the line directions. What you can't do is have the multi-color filament start in a certain place unless you pause and make an adjustment to the filament input. The default "Top/Bottom Line Directions" are [45,135]. If you have 5 bottom layers and 4 top layers it will match. If the top layers and bottom layers are both set to 4 (for example) then the directions end up different. The bottom would be 45, 135, 45, 135 with the initial 45 the visible surface on the bed. The top would be the same 45, 135, 45, 135 but the final 135 would be the show surface on top. So what exactly do you mean by "mismatched"?

The motor that drives the filament into the hot end is called the Extruder. When it is mounted right on top of the hot end it is considered a Direct Drive system. If the extruder is mounted off to the side somewhere and drives the filament through a plastic tube/guide to the hot end that is a "Bowden" system. They require some different values in Cura. There are two ways to go here. You can install a "Custom FFF" printer in Cura and change the settings to match your printer (almost everything is an option), or you can find a printer that is much like yours, install that one, change the name, and make a couple of adjustments. If you have a direct drive it looks like you can install an Ender 3 S1 Pro. Your printer build plate is a tad smaller. Things like that can be adjusted in the Machine Settings. After installing a printer (which you can always remove if you feel you've messed something up) select the "Settings / Printers / Manage Printers" and then select "Machine Settings". The build plate size and the Firmware Flavor are the important things there. The "Print Head" settings only come into play when printing in "One at a Time" mode. If you go over to Reddit you may find a user group of Voxelab printers. They would be better sources of info.

The printer looks like an Ender 3 S1 Pro. Does yours have a Direct Drive hot end?

If "Brim" is enabled, and the brim distance is enough to keep the brim from adhering to the model that will work and the Support Brim will be correct. This is with "Bed Adhesion" set to "None". The Support Brim should make all those structures 4mm wider. When the Support goes down on the next layer without the brim below it, it will often fail due to a lack of adhesion. This is with Bed Adhesion set to Brim and the Brim Distance set to 2.0. That makes it into a glorified skirt. It does make the Support Brim form correctly.

You have to give Cura (or any other slicer) the model you want. There should not be any "...it's almost right except for this part over here". You could try slicing in "Surface Mode" but I don't think it will make a difference. You might also play with "Horizontal Expansion" and it might make a difference. The hole will be there but it might get welded shut. "Remove all Holes" might be something to try but I think it would give you "unexpected consequences". The real problem is that you have a model with a hole and you don't want the hole and you want the slicer to fix it...but it's a CAD issue.

"Coasting" will give a preview like that because the preview only shows extrusions and during the "coast" part of a move the extruder is off.

If you allow the first layer of the letters to be the base color, and then switch colors for the second layer, then the nozzle is above the base for travels between the letters. It makes post-process cleanup of any strings much easier as the lettering color won't stick near as well to the base color.

Here ya go. If you load the "Mesh Tools" plugin from the MarketPlace, one of the handy-dandy tools is "Split Model into Parts". If a model is comprised of separate meshes (like this one) it can be split. I used that, grouped the logo pieces, laid them flat, and put them back where they belong. That's what I used to make this. GV_DS3_navkapa.zip

The versions of Cura up to 5.0 were more tolerant of model errors. Creality Cura was forked from 4.6 as I recall.

"I've found something! you have to deactivate the “optimize the wall printing order” option," And here I was thinking I was the only detective around here. Nice job. It worked on that other model as well.

Here is the backside of the model. When you merged the logo to the circle it protruded through a little and that looks to be because the logo was at a slight angle. Computers notice such things. You can also see that although the model is watertight that it has errors. Here is that "slight angle". It's why the top of the logo is made up of several layers rather than just one. This may be why the logo doesn't fit into the "hole" which you didn't need. Set the logo onto (or into) the model and merge them. One of these has been repaired.

Mainboards for your printer aren't terribly expensive. It might be worth your while to invest in one to get a working SD card slot back. I bought a mini-SD to SD card adapter so I can use the larger memory card rather than that little one that came with my Ender. The adapter never leaves the mini slot in the printer so there is no wear and tear to the socket. A couple of things you can try are: Increase the "Maximum Resolution" setting in the Mesh Fixes section. That can eliminate a lot of very short line segments from the gcode. If you have prints with circles and curves you can try using the "Arc Welder" plugin. It puts together arc segments and sends them to the printer in G2 and G3 lines that dump all the calculations onto the printer-planner rather than sending a bunch of lines through the USB. Your firmware needs to support G2/G3 and not all firmwares do. There really isn't a fix for the actual M105 problem as print servers (like Cura) want to know the temperature of the hot end in order to display it in the Monitor Scene. Whether it sends "M105" every 3 seconds (which it does) or every 30 minutes, it's a question of the contents of the input buffer when the command is received as to whether the problem will occur. There is no way to query the printer regarding the contents/state of the planning buffer. I suppose sending the M105 could be disabled, but that could result in a trip to the thoroughly unpleasant "Land of Unexpected Consequences". Here is the housing and the regular SD card reader. The ribbon cable from the rear plugs into the mini-SD card slot of the printer.

If you are printing over the USB then that is a known issue. Cura (and PronterFace/PrintRun) sends the M105 "temperature query" as a check to insure that the serial connection to the printer is still open. If the printer responds with the temperature then all is well BUT if the printer input-buffer happens to be almost full, the M105 can get truncated to M1 which as you have found out is "emergency stop" which requires a button click to continue. USB printing can be plagued by another problem on Windows computers. If you happen to be printing over the USB over-night and if Microsoft sends out an update that causes the computer to re-boot then the printer will re-boot and the print will fail. It's a "printing via the USB" problem rather than a Cura bug/problem as it is (at least partially) dependent on the size of the printer input buffer which varies from printer to printer and from firmware to firmware. Starting with 5.4.0 there are two versions of the "USB Printing" plugin included with Cura. By default, the older version is enabled. If you go to the "MarketPlace" and click on the "Gear" icon and scroll down to "USB Printing" you can disable the older version. Then click on the "Plugins" tab and scroll down and enable "USB Printing NG". It might make a difference. All-in-all printing from the SD card is much preferred. Octoprint / Raspberry PI is also a good option. Here is "USB Printing NG" in the MarketPlace. I've never used it (and have no intention of using it) but it is an option. You would need to go through the instructions and the Readme.txt file to properly implement it.

It's cyan colored so it's support and it's there on that particular model because the Support Horizontal Expansion is at 0.8. If you set it to 0.0 that little nub will go away. ("0.8" is the default setting. I think it was "0.0" in previous versions.) Set to 0.8: Set to 0.0

When printing materials that are prone to warping (PETG, ABS for example) the question that you often have to answer in regards to layer cooling is "how much" and "when". Cura can turn the fan on, but then it leaves it on. That isn't usually optimal. So I wrote this post processor. You can turn the fan on for certain features (or for certain layers) then turn it off again. I find it comes in handy for cooling Support Interfaces, the first skin layer over Infill, feather edges that want to warp up and get hit by the nozzle, etc.. Unzip the file below and put it into your "Configuration" folder in the "scripts" sub-folder (use "Help | Show Configuration Folder" to locate it.) The post will be available with the others under "Extensions | Post Process | Modify Gcode" and then "Add a script". It's in line for consideration by the Cura team but it won't make it into 5.5. (The "By Feature" option is better for large prints and the "By Layer" option is better for smaller prints.) AddCoolingProfile.zip

That screenshot looks exactly correct. You cannot print over air so Cura is building a support structure to hold the plastic up. It's an anti-gravity device that will keep the shoulders of that model from turning into a pile of spaghetti. Here is a view from the underside. All the red areas require support or they will fail.

It needs elephant ears on the build plate, up high you will need a windscreen or something. (My bad...I just noticed it's an Ultimaker). I print mostly PETG. A couple of us here fooled around with some non-scientific testing. This model is a shark fin for mounting on the roof of our car. It's an "old folks" aid for parking lots. You will note that it has large break-away elephant ears to try to hold it down to the bed. You can see below that they were barely adequate. It was pulling hard. This was with hair spray as an adhesion promoter. You also are getting warpage up high. That one I haven't been plagued with. If you get a draft from an air vent (when the air-condo or furnace cycle on) you can get something like that. The fact that it is "directional" is a clue. One side shrank faster than the other side did. Here is the fancy shark fins for Sundays. I have to take them off at the car wash.

If you slice it in 5.4.0 with a 0.4 nozzle you will see that it appears to be "expected behavior". The larger nozzle seems to be making the difference. In 4.13.1 there is no difference when changing the nozzle size. This is 5.4.0 with a 0.4 nozzle/Line Width. Travel moves are turned on. The only change here was the nozzle size and Line Width to 0.6. This is 4.13.1 with a 0.6 nozzle. Travels are turned on. It looks like something is broken in "Combing".

The 5.5 release of Cura may or may not include the definition. There is a pull request HERE to add the full definition. You might want to comment on it and perhaps it will get expedited and make it into the 5.5 release. If nothing else you can download the files and manually install them.

Yes, you are in "speed view" so it looks odd. In "Line Type" view you would see that that "extra material" is the support structure.

I have the same printer. The absolute max that I can get from it is 175mm/sec. That is under very specific conditions. Once I get above175 the extruder doesn't kick in fast enough at the beginning of the extrusions. It's OK once it gets moving but every extrusion is under-extruded for the first few mm's. That makes me wonder if what I see on the bow of your Benchy might be related. The tests I performed were with a .4 nozzle and .2 layer height. That comes out to 14mm³/sec. You could try increasing the Accel limit on the Extuder. The default is 1000 and it couldn't hurt to make that 2000 for testing. Just a thought there. I think the blobs on the side are different though. From what I gather, that is probably related to some stuttering do to buffer under-runs. You might try increasing the "Maximum Resolution" setting in Cura. That will filter out some of the short line segments that Cura can generate around curves. The result is that it takes fewer lines of gcode to describe a feature. If it is indeed cooling you might have to go to one of those huge double fan contraptions.

That doesn't work for me. I end up changing them for every print anyway. I have "Slow PLA", "Fast PLA", and "PETG" and I have a separate Ender 3 Pro installed for TPU because it needs it's own startup gcode. So every print is a custom setup.

A side effect is that without the walls there is nowhere for Cura to stop and change settings. If an extrusion starts at the exterior wall outside the block and travels into the block that will be at the starting speed. The next extrusion might start inside the block and that would be at the adjusted speed. The way you had it didn't look bad. 0.3 off the build surface allows the bottom skin to go down without those extra walls. You could design a custom block. It would have protrusions that drop into the holes and are 3 wall thicknesses bigger than the holes. It's another workaround, but that often happens in these custom situations. If you have to make a lot of them it would probably be worth the time.

I'm in the US. For the better part of 55 years I was a designer in a drafting shop scribbling up automotive assembly tooling. Metric measurements showed up in about 1980 and everyone complained because they had to go and get new scales. Even then, a 600mm (call it 2 feet) engraved scale was about $50. If you pull out a tape measure you will see that many have metric on one edge and imperial on the other edge. These two and the carpenters tri-square were purchased at ACO Hardware numerous years ago, I suppose we could go back to cubits. That wouldn't be quite as bad as going back to Lucas Electric.

I have a couple of overrides in my definition file. One more didn't take but a second. "skirt_height": { "default_value": 1 }