GregValiant

The Pull Request was merged a couple of days ago. The printer will be available in the next release. In the meantime you could download the files and install them yourself.

Which fan? Whether cooling is enabled in Cura or not - if the "Regular Fan Speed at Layer" setting is > 1 then Cura always includes "M107" at the beginning of the gcode which is "turn off the layer cooling fan". Very few people start a print with the fan on at the first layer. To turn on the layer cooling fan requires an M106 line in the Gcode. You can open the gcode file in a text editor and search for "M106". With cooling turned off in Cura the only instance should be the one in the Ending Gcode M106 S0 which turns the fan off at the end of the print.

Cura puts the heating lines at the beginning of the gcode so the printer should have seen them and heated the nozzle and bed. You will get better support to your question over on the users group on Reddit. I don't recall anyone that hangs around here that has your printer and the problem is likely printer specific.

Your project is a big model and takes up a lot of the build plate. You need to make sure that your "Bed Adhesion" fits along with the model. The raft fits when the Raft Extra Margin is 3.0mm. It was OK with a skirt because Cura can (now) plan to have the skirt end at the edge of the build plate but the entire raft must fit. It looks like that was the problem as it did slice once there was room for everything.

Go ahead and take it down. You can work through email directly with the Cura team rather than posting proprietary models here on the forum. Maybe @Dustin or @gr5 can advise on that. BTW Cura crashed when I tried to open that project file. I didn't have any trouble with the one on Github. I was able to slice the Github project but I had to make a couple setting changes. Re-selecting the "Fast" profile and resetting everything back to it's defaults allowed it to slice as well. There might be a conflict within the changes you made to the profile. Alright, different model. I hate senior moments.

" I feel really dumb for not catching this earlier." Aaahhh, but in your favor - you let everyone know where the problem was. Thank you. I think that makes it a wash.

Beats the heck out of me. I have the fancy Dehydrating oven.

There are filament driers and then there are ways to dry filament. I paid no attention at the time but when remodeling our kitchen I bought a new stove. I'll be darned if it doesn't have a "Dehydrate" cycle. It allows low temperatures and the exhaust fan runs. It works perfect but can only be used at night (or someone else might notice what her stove is being used for). The same method can be used to dry silica packs out. There there is also the "Turn your heated bed on at 60°, set the roll of filament on it, and put a cover on it". People claim that works and although I haven't tried it (got that fancy oven) I don't see why it wouldn't be better than nothing.

Layer adhesion with "Silky's" is not good and it seems to me that it varies by color. Silky Silver is actually pretty good and Silky Copper is really bad with Silky Gold somewhere in between. I generally print them 5° hotter, but there is not a big improvement. In addition they seem to suck up moisture faster and so you need to use it up or it gets brittle AND doesn't adhere to itself well.

Thank you. I submitted a pull request for it about 10 months ago. I think eventually it will get rolled in once it is reviewed by the Cura team.

I wrote this because Cura's fan control is rudimentary. Unzip the file and put "AddCoolingProfile.py" into the "scripts" folder in your Configuration Folder (find it using "Help | Show Configuration Folder"). There are options to control the fan "By Layer" or "By Feature" and within By Feature is a Bridge Fan option. The script will be available in "Extensions / Post Processing / Modify Gcode" and then "Add a Script". AddCoolingProfile.zip

The BASF material has the Standby Temperature at 100°. Within the printer settings the "Heat Up Speed" is 1.4°/sec and the "Cool Down Speed" is 0.9°/sec. The White Breakaway material Standby Temperature is 125°. Within the printer settings the "Heat Up Speed" is 1.6°/sec and the "Cool Down Speed" is 0.75°/sec. (For many materials the defaults for both the Heat Up and Cool Down is 2°/sec.) So as @gr5 surmised, it's a question of the layer time and whether or not the particular nozzle can react given the settings for how fast they can cool down and then heat up again. The setting "Minimal Time at Standby Temperature" of 15 seconds is likely coming into play as well.

That's the print file. Use the "File | Save Project" command to generate a 3mf Project File. Starting around layer 234 the T0 standby temperature starts to drop. By layer 240 it is down around 110° and then drops to 100°. By layer 248 nozzle 2 (T1) is done working and T0 heats up from 100 and is used for the rest of the print. Yes, the standby temperatures are bouncing around. Maybe @gr5 can comment on what is going on there.

I looked at the model. Then I looked at the spool. I told myself "Self, it's gonna be close, but I do believe there is enough to get to the color change." And there was.

Someone here will need a project file ("File | Save Project") to investigate.

This is the UltiMaker Forum so mostly it's about their machines. Have you posted your question on an EasyThreed user site? I think you would get more help there.

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/14036 This keeps coming up.

If you search through the Gcode for "T0" and "T1" you should see where the temps are changed at any tool changes. If you search for "M104" and "M109" you will come across other temperature changes. Between the two you will get a feel for what Cura is doing. On long prints you won't want to be dragging an oozing nozzle around your print so the standby temperature is important.

Thanks @ahoeben. Your fix appears to work as advertised so it's all good now.

"I thought that the temperature was adjusted to the correct level while the opposite core was finishing its layer" It does work that way but it's dependent on "Heat Up Speed" and "Cool Down Speed" which are not exactly consistent (they are affected by a lot of things including flow-rate of material through the nozzle). There is also the question of how long the layer takes to print. For quick layers there may not be enough time for the temp to adjust before the next tool change. The M109 is a safety to insure that the printing temperature is reached. As a side note - A change I made in the PauseAtHeight plugin was to add an option to use either M109 or M104 when the print resumes. If the "Standby" temperature is the same as the "Printing Temperature" then M104 is fine and the print immediately continues after the pause. If the temperatures are different, then the use of M109 is indicated so the printer waits for the new temperature to be achieved before printing resumes. One thing I have noticed is that if the current nozzle temperature is the same as the resume temperature then M109 may or may not cause a 10 second dwell in the print. It appears to be a function of when the M109 appeared in the Printer/Planner queue as to whether a dwell occurs or not. It might have something to do with the clock cycle of the Printer/Planner or whether the reported temperature is slightly above or slightly below the set point temperature. It certainly isn't consistent.

If there are M109 temperature commands (likely) in the gcode then that will usually cause a delay before printing resumes. If both cores are printing at the same temperature, and if the stand-by temperature for both cores is the same as the printing temperature, then you could (if you are brave) use Search and Replace to change all the "M109" lines to "M104"'s. BUT...If the temperatures are not the same, then you need to let the printer adjust temperatures and that will mean a short wait every time there is a tool change.

If your printer is an "Origin at Center" machine and Cura is not set that way then there will be a location problem on the print bed. The opposite is also true. If your printer is NOT an Origin at Center machine but the box is checked in Cura then the print will be off the left front corner of the build plate. Auto-Home your printer, raise the Z a couple of mm's so the nozzle doesn't drag, then move the nozzle to X=0 Y=0. If the nozzle is at the left front corner, then go into Cura to Manage Printers / Machine Settings and make sure the "Origin at Center" box is not checked. If the printer nozzle is at the midpoint of the build surface then the Origin at Center box should be checked. Without any images that's the best I can do.

It's a well rehearsed post. I think I've put that up half a dozen times here and there. There are two things that you should consider here... Use a carpenters square or similar tool and make sure that each axis is at 90° to the other two. If the frame is straight and square your prints will be straight and square. If you calibrate the extruder motor (the "E-steps") then the machine will push the correct amount of plastic into each extrusion. Do not use a "single wall calibration cube" when you calibrate the extruder. Just make sure that when it's told to push 100mm of filament that it actually pushes 100mm of filament. All the "kit" printers need both of those done. Remember that "Just because parts of it were assembled at a factory doesn't mean they were assembled correctly." Check everything, trolley wheel alignment, the hot end is tight, no loose screws, etc.

To say this another way... The virtual build plate in Cura has to match the real build plate of the printer. Leveling takes care of the "Z" and it is the "Home Offset" that takes care of the X and Y. When the printer receives a gcode it will put the X0 Y0 of the print at your Home Offset 0,0 position. If you have never changed the Home Offset then it is the same as the Auto Home position. That is why the print is off. You will need a ruler. (2.5mm is about 1/10".) Your build surface is 235 x 235 but you can't use the whole thing. Creality asks for a very conservative 7.5mm non-printable border (235 - 7.5 - 7.5 = 220) around the build surface. You can make the border smaller than that and increase the printable area. Measure your build plate edge to edge in the X and in the Y. We'll call those Xmeas and Ymeas. Auto Home the printer. Use the LCD and raise the Z axis 5mm or so. Move the nozzle in the X to a point 2.5mm in from the left edge of the build surface. Move the nozzle in the Y to a point 2.5mm in from the front edge of the build surface. Drop the Z back down to "0". On the LCD find "Set Home Offset" (on my older 3 Pro it's under "Prepare") and click on it. Raise the Z 5mm Send the nozzle to Xmeas - 5 and Ymeas - 5. The nozzle should be 2.5mm from the back edge of the build surface and 2.5mm in from the right edge of the build surface. In Cura - goto Manage Printers and then Machine Settings. Make the X(width) = Xmeas - 5 and the Y(depth) = Ymeas - 5. If you find that the nozzle is too far back or too far to the right when you move to the back right corner, then you will need to make an adjustment. If you find that you have to set your Home Offsets with the nozzle 5mm in from the left and 5mm in from the front then you would set Cura up as Xmeas - 10 and Ymeas - 10. When you are happy with how you have set it up find "Save Settings" on the LCD and click on it. That will make your new Home Offset the new default. The midpoint of the Cura build surface should end up matching the midpoint of the actual bed. That will center all your prints.

There are other places where you need to make changes. The "Mega X" printer inherits the "Mega S" printer which in turn inherits the FDM Printer definition file. Within the override section of the Mega X definition file is: "speed_travel": "maximum_value": 120.0, So you need to alter your definition file and make the maximum_value a higher number. Then you need to copy the file into the Configuration Folder / definition_changes folder so it will carry-over when you upgrade to a new version of Cura. You should probably over-ride the "maximum_value_warning" speed warnings as well as they are all below 250. They won't keep you from slicing but all the boxes will be yellow.