GregValiant

Your model is a grid with even layers left-to-right and odd layers front-to-back. We want to print it with offsets. The 0 and 1 layers goes down as designed, The 2 and 3 layers are moved .5 to the right. 4 and 5 layers are .5 to the back AND .5 to the right. The 6 and 7 layers are .5 to the back only. 8 and 9 layers are the same as the first 2 layers. The printer puts the origin of any print at the 0,0,0 defined by the Home Offset position stored in the M206 register in the printer. If I were to change the Home Offset "X" it would effectively move the print on the build plate left or right because I've moved the 0,0,0 left or right. You would need to know your starting home offset. When you auto-home the printer the nozzle may or may not be over the build plate. You move the nozzle to a point where it IS over the left front corner of the build plate and then set the Home Offset on the LCD. Your LCD will now read 0,0,0. When you Auto-Home again, the LCD will display the distance from that 0,0,0 to the auto-home position. Those are your Home Offset numbers. On my machine they are: X-2 Y-5 Z0. It would be the same as M206 X-2 Y-5 Z0. A gcode like this would alter the print as I described above (with layers offset). ;LAYER:0 M206 X-2 Y-5 Z0 ;regular home offset >>gcode ;LAYER:1 >>gcode ;LAYER:2 M206 X-2.5 ;shift the origin .5mm to the right >>gcode ;LAYER:3 >>gcode ;LAYER:4 M206 Y-5.5 ;shift the Y .5 toward the back. >>gcode ;LAYER:5 >>gcode ;LAYER:6 M206 X-2 ;shift the X .5 toward the left. >>gcode ;LAYER:7 >>gcode ;LAYER:8 M206 Y-5 ;shift the Y .5 toward the front. >>gcode ;LAYER:9 >>gcode In the Ending Gcode put M206 X-2 Y-5 Z0 (with your numbers) to reset the Home Offset. The Cura gcode preview doesn't understand M206 and so your preview of the gcode would look like it does with the extrusions on the layers stacked right above each other, but it would print with the layer shifts. With "Travel Avoid Distance" at 2mm I get this. The ends of the extrusions will be connected (you can't retract), but there are no travel moves across the model.

Can't tell without a project file. Use the "File | Save Project" command with the model loaded and Cura set up as you like. Post the resulting 3mf file here. If the problem was resolved by changing to a Skirt/Brim, then I would guess that it's the same bug.

Attached below is a collection of 5 post processors. The last one (todays work of art) is Lift Head Parking. Unzip and put the "LittleUtilities.py" file in your configuration folder, the "scripts" folder. On my Windows computer it's "C:\Users\...name...\AppData\Roaming\cura\5.4\scripts. It figures out the shortest orthogonal move to get off the part and goes there, waits for the G4 pause, and then goes back, drops down, and the print continues. There will likely be a booger. In regards to Cura's Lift Head retractions: If there is a normal retraction just prior to the Lift Head movement, then Lift Head does not include it's own retraction. If there is no retraction in front, then Lift Head will include a retraction. In this snippet a retraction was called for because there was none ahead of the move. G0 F9000 X199.375 Y36.033 ;Small layer, adding delay G1 F2100 E3451.70922 G1 F600 Z13.4 G0 F9000 X206.461 G4 P8132 G0 F9000 X199.375 Y36.033 The two bold G0 lines were added by the post processor LittleUtilities / Lift Head Parking. Rather than moving all the way to a corner it just moves straight to a point over the skirt/brim/raft. LittleUtilities.zip

You are right. A horizontal hole will not be expanded because it isn't vertical. Note that the Horizontal Expansions settings are with the rest of the Wall settings. Those settings only affect the XY. So your horizontal hole must be designed correctly. Thick layer heights can make the hole oval shaped with the long axis in the Z. Cura has to hit the next layer height and it rarely is exactly at the quadrant of the circle. The tops and bottoms of horizontal holes are characteristically flat. When it's necessary I chase them out with the appropriate drill. Pin chucks come in handy.

The default for Email notifications is "off". In the message center (or in your profile) you can turn it on. If you put your process into a separate app then you can move sections of the code around a bit easier. You can choose whether to treat the entire gcode file as a long string, or to read each layer and make each layer into an item in an array or list. If you post process directly in Cura then each layer is an item in a list (data[ ]) but you might be able to do what you want. It would be an extensive post process. Insuring that the file was sliced with "Relative Extrusion" enabled could be very helpful. At least if you miss something if won't result in a 4000mm prime. What do you do about any support on the layers involved? Debugging is WAY easier in something like Visual Studio than using the Cura app to debug a post processor.

There is no "Park Head" option for Lift Head. It could be done in post process but exactly how it's done raises some questions. You mentioned a "relative" park distance but would 5mm be enough? The nozzle may well still be over the part, just not quite where it was. An absolute park position might send the head from the right rear to the left front. That might take longer than the pause. There could be some drool hanging from the nozzle. Should it drop back down in the Z and wipe on the side of the part, or go back over the part and stick it where the Z drops back down? That would seem to be right back where you started. Should the time spent in travel be subtracted from the pause time? A bit more time wouldn't hurt.

@ShadowMoses go to Settings/Printer/Manage Printers and then Machine Settings. On the left is a box called "Origin at Center" and the box should be UN-checked. @Vannion the measurements are from the tip of the nozzle. Sitting in front of the printer: Negative X is to the left of the nozzle and positive X is to the right. On my Ender 3 pro the left side of the hot end housing is my negative X and happens to be -24mm from the nozzle. Your "Xmin" will be a negative number. I have a 5015 fan mounted on the right side of my hot end cover. So that dimension on my printer is 32mm. Your "Xmax" will be a positive number. Negative Y is to the front and positive Y is to the rear. I have a fan cover on my hot end fan so my "Ymin" is -32mm. Your "Ymin" will be a negative number. The print head trolley wheels are in the back and must be considered so my "Ymax" is 34mm. Gantry height is measured from the tip of the nozzle to the bottom of the X beam. It is a positive number. Mine is 25mm

If the model isn't proprietary use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. I typically run Support Flow and Support Interface flow at 90% to make them weaker and it prints fine and the support does break out easier. I'm thinking you either have a flow issue or poor layer adhesion. What material is that? Silky PLA has inherently poor layer adhesion and generally needs to be printed at higher temps. In my case that's 215 instead of my normal 205.

"...and even tried other slicers but nothing changed" Then you need to go back to the printer. You might have two different problems. Regular ole' elephant foot at the bottom is often due to Z-Binding while a print that is over-size at the top may not be. Look at the Z motor coupler to the threaded rod. Make sure the bottom is not dragging on the motor housing. Also make sure that the set screws are tight. The Z uprights must be parallel. If they taper together or splay outward at the top, and you adjust with Z trolley wheels with the Z = 0, then the trolley wheels will start to bind in the slots as the Z goes up. That adjustment is made with the top beam. Adjust the wheels with the Z at 0, run the Z all the way up. Loosen the top beam and then tighten it down again. After auto-homing the printer - carefully measure the distance from the top of the threaded rod (that controls the Z height) to the frame. Then, run the Z all the way to the top and measure the distance again. It should be the same. If it is not then you need to shim or alter the bracket that holds the Z motor to the frame. I ended up with 0.30mm of shim behind the bracket on my Ender 3 Pro. The fact that the problem occurs regardless of the slicer sure points to the printer. "Just because parts of it came assembled doesn't mean it was assembled correctly." - Me

Enable a "Skirt" and see if it improves. The bug in 5.3.1 occurred when "Support Brim" was enabled and Bed Adhesion was set to "None".

Cura does not natively support IDEX printers but they can be made to work. The Raise3D IDEX machines use M605 S0 for Normal, M605 S1 for Mirror, and M605 S2 for Duplicate. The workaround for those machines is to install 3 printers and give each a proper name (ex: Mirror Printer) and put the correct M605 line into the startup gcode for each. When you want a Normal print your would select the Normal printer. I'll think about this some more and if I can come up with wording that adequately describes what appears to be going on I'll write up something on Github. As I say though, IDEX machines aren't directly supported so I don't know what kind of traction this would get with the Cura team. If what is going on works fine with UM printers then it will get no traction at all.

This is with Combing turned on and set to "All", "Avoid Printed Parts" is on, and Z-hops are turned off. The travel moves are blue. Trying to do this with infill is possible by altering your Home Offset on the layers you want the grid moved. That will make the outer periphery sloppy though and it could be a lengthy process. You are better off printing your model since it is what you want.

Looking at this some more, there may be a bug in that. In an example slice I'm getting: Model set to T1 Gcode correctly starts with T1 The "T{initial_extruder_nr} comes back as T0 and never changes to T1. That would appear to be wrong. To make it correct either: Extruder 1 needs to be disabled, or, the Bed Adhesion Extruder needs to be explicitly set to Extruder 2, or, the Bed Adhesion must be set to "None".

I will assume that you have the LEFT 2 and RIGHT 1 set correctly so LEFT is T1 and RIGHT is T0. It is easy to confuse that. Since you aren't calling out Tool# or Temperature in your StartUp Gcode, Cura should set the Tool# and Temperature just in front of the startup gcode. In your "Case 1", there should be a T1, and no other "T" lines before the start of the skirt/brim/raft. If that is true and there are no "T" lines and the printer is starting with T0, then the firmware may be configured to always start with T0. Try changing the startup gcode to: G28 G29 T{initial_extruder_nr} The curly brackets are required. Cura will replace the keyword with the "Initial Extruder Number" which in this example would be "1". It's possible that with T0 enabled that Cura has assigned a couple of lines of the skirt/brim/raft to T0 and so the Initial Extruder Number will actually be T0. In that case it should have heated up. At any rate, it's something to try.

If you have a Gcode file that worked post it here. I have a feeling that those "rcp" files just the "initial settings" that might be used by the older versions of Cura. That image I posted is (I think) 8 years old. It is possible to build a setting profile from a gcode and/or with some trial and error in the Machine Settings dialog.

Alright, we know this isn't an easy model to print as a single piece so how about as an assembly? If you printed the lower ring, and the upper ring, and if each ring had slots to receive the spokes, and if you printed 76 or so spokes, then you could super-glue the mess together, you would have 1 assembly. If you lost the taper on the spokes and made them a constant .4mm wide they would probably come out pretty good because you could print them flat on the build surface. If you need 30,000 then that probably won't work (unless you can hire elves). If you only need one or two then it might be a viable option.

@gr5 is an UltiMaker owner/operator and @Dustin is on the Cura team. Maybe they have something else you can try.

I only know Windows. In File Explorer go to "C:\Program Files\Creality Slicer 4.8.2\resources\definitions" folder. Copy the "creality_cr5060pro.def.json" file and paste it into - "C:\Program Files\UltiMaker Cura 5.4.0-beta.1\share\cura\resources\definitions Go to the "C:\Program Files\Creality Slicer 4.8.2\resources\variants" folder and copy all the nozzle files for the 5060 (there are 4 with names like "creality_cr5060pro_0.2.inst.cfg"). Paste those files into "C:\Program Files\UltiMaker Cura 5.4.0-beta.1\share\cura\resources\variants\creality" When you re-start Cura you should be able to install the printer.

I'm not a UM person but I think this is just a Cura thing. Look in the left side of the screen below the main toolbar. There is a smaller toolbar with a "1" and a "2" in circles. They are the extruder setting tools. Select the model and then pick one of those buttons and the part will be set to that extruder. You still need to go over settings like the Build Plate Adhesion and Support to see which extruder might be assigned to those features. This should not be a problem on your printer but for those "other" printers - sometimes the StartUp gcode is configured to always start with extruder 1. That can be a problem if you want to start with extruder 2 because (dependent on the printer) it may not have heated up. Not all printers StartUp G-Codes have the problem, but a fair percentage do.

I don't know what to think about this. Here is a clip (this site) showing the printer working. If a machine tool was doing this I'd call it Monkey Motion. It's a mish-mash of polar and cartesian coordinates. I'm curious if a regular gcode would work with that. Couple that with no heated bed and I really think you'd do better on Craigslist or Ebay.

Use a hair blow dryer and start warming up that mess. Gently worry at it with a pair of needle nose pliers. Save the area with the wiring for last. Having to fix the wiring would be worse than the ball of plastic. Patience is a virtue. Go slow. It's better to walk away for a while than to break something expensive.

I would be inclined to go even narrower. A 0.2 nozzle with the wall ordering "Outside to Inside" and the Initial Layer Flow at 110% looked pretty good. It's a small model. Even Leonardo couldn't paint the Mona Lisa with a 100mm house brush.

If you do some trig with the Layer Height and Line Width you will find the minimum angle off the build plate which for 0.2 x 0.4 is about 37°. That happens to be the minimum angle you can print without support. As the angle approaches 0 (horizontal) the extrusions are too far apart to bond to each other. Another problem you no doubt found is that you can't print curves at those low angles because the extrusion is over air and just follows the nozzle in a straight line. The nozzle follows the toolpath, but the plastic doesn't stay where it's put because there is nothing to hold it in place.

"Try slicing with it set to "None". Then the support brim layer disappears completely." There are a few bug reports on Github regarding that as well. A definite problem is that the support brim disappears and the support structure is missing it's first layer.

Most 3D printers have the mainboards configured in such a way that the 5volt USB signal is considered to be a "hard reset" signal and will always cause a re-boot of the printer. It is done on purpose. If you modify a USB cable to kill the 5volt signal then you might find a way to resume a print. If you are printing via the SD card, the loss of the 5volt signal due to the computer shutting off doesn't matter. The problem occurs when the computer powers back up and the 5volt signal shows up again. When that happens, the printer re-boots and the print will stop. That can be recoverable from the printer LCD if the printer has been writing the power-off info to the SD card. If you are printing via the USB the power loss kills the print and the power coming back on will re-boot the printer. That is usually not recoverable. It can be recoverable: IF the printer was writing the power-off info to the SD card and IF you can access the BIN file on the SD card (you can remove it from the printer and open it in a text editor) and IF you can "resume a print from a byte location" with M26, and IF (in my case) you can get the DOS 8.3 filename, and IF there is a location on the bed where you can home the Z and IF the print didn't come free from the bed when the bed cooled and IF you can put together a script for the restart. There are a lot of ifs. I've practiced it and I've written an app that automates it. The final problem is that the end stop switches on the printer are not very accurate so the HomeX0 Y0 Z0 location can vary (at least slightly) every time you auto-home. The Z doesn't matter much as a slightly higher or slightly lower layer isn't very noticeable. If the X and/or Y home location is slightly different (which is likely) then there will be a layer shift no matter how careful you are. This is a mock recovery script for my Ender running Marlin 1.1.8. It is much like a StartUp Gcode. The M26 line has to be calculated by counting the characters in the file up to the point you want to resume the print from. In the example below I picked the start of Layer 25. If you look at the second G28 line you see I've decided that I could home the Z at the right front corner. M21 ;Initialize SD card M23 \BRIDGE~2.GCO ;DOS 8.3 FileName M26 S580232 ;Byte location M140 S50 ;Set Bed temp M190 S50 ;Wait for bed M104 S205 ;Hot end temp M109 S205 ;Wait for hot end M105 ;Report Temps M220 S100 ;Feed rate M221 S100 ;Flow rate G28 X Y G1 F2400 X230 Y0 G28 Z ;Home Z M106 S76 ;Fan G0 F1200 Z15.4 ;Move the Z to restart height + 10 G0 F2400 X17.084 Y117.854 ;Move to XY restart location G92 E34.57277 ;Set extruder -4 prime G0 F300 Z5.4 ;Drop 10 to Resume Z G0 F1200 E38.57277 ;Prime G0 F2400 ;Set Feed rate M24 ;Resume This is the "Recovery" tab of my app and contains the information I decided I needed to recover from a power-loss or other malfunction that caused a print to stop or that I had to abort. It ain't easy. Time for more coffee.