LordHokage
-
Posts
35 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by LordHokage
-
-
Hi Everyone,
I've got an Ultimaker Original Plus here and I've just updated it to Marlin 2.1.x.
However, when I reach the nominal bed temperature, it restarts. Does anyone know why this happens? Is it a hardware or software issue here?
For reference, it worked fine with the older firmware.
Kind Regards!
-
Hi everyone!
I've got a UMO+ and wanted to get some timely upgrades for it.
I got reading through some history and found some upgrades, all of which have been doing me well....
One of my final ones is this one: YouMagine – Symmetric Dual Fans UMO/UMO+ 30mm / 40mm / 50mm by Neotko / Sugarpop! – YouMagine 🔧
In the description of that one, it does give a link to some instructions. I click on the link to find that it gives an error. Can anyone fill me in on what's happened and more pressingly, put in the a) working link or b) instructions c) give me their instruction as to how I'm supposed to do it.
broken link: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20503-ultimaker-original-dual-fans-upgrade
Kind Regards and thank you!
-
@Smithy (and @Mechatron127) thank you. I will try that this weekend. I was thinking about the line widths..
As this is a printer for work, it would be ideal to find the original c-clip. Where can I get one?
I rather not print them if I can do so
-
On 3/7/2022 at 8:22 PM, Smithy said:
Printing these clips is working well, I did it some times myself, but you can also buy these clips at any Ultimaker reseller.
Regarding scratching, yes a good question and I can only say you will get a feeling of how much is the correct way. But I level my beds in a way that I can move the paper but I can feel that the nozzle scratches the paper. Or in other words bring the nozzle so close that you cannot move the paper anymore and then turn it just a little bit away.
And during the first layer the line/filament should be squished in the bed, you want to see a flat line and not a "round" one that looks like that the nozzle just lays down the filament. It needs to be squished into the bed.
You can also turn the screws during the first layer print. just turn them 1/4 turn closer when you see it is not squished enough.
Interesting thought there @Smithy!!
I really do think it is just me not levelling the bed properly. Do you have any clip models you think work well??
I will try relevelling the bed again but the nozzle diameter is 0.4. It that a problem??
-
21 hours ago, Mechatron127 said:
Maybe stupid question, how is your line width setting compared to the nozzle diameter?
@Mechatron127, I bought this printer second hand so I don't actually know the line diameter....I'd assume that it would be the standard UMO+ nozzle.
20 hours ago, Smithy said:You need to level closer to the bed. Take a piece of normal paper and move the paper during leveling, when you feel that the nozzle scratches the paper you should be fine.
Check also if your nozzle has a clean tip.
@Smithy, I've gone through this a million times, but how much scratch??
Also, the bowden clips have both disappeared, where would I get replacements instead of printing shoddy ones.
-
ok @Smithy here they are.
Please ignore the blob on the first picture, that was when i stopped the print.
It's either gaps in the extrusion lines or just no extrusion at all with this guy.
-
@Smithy, I got one slightly better print but even jacking up the flow rate did nothing...
I think it has to do with my bed levelling. That's always the problem right?
-
-
IDK Man. 4 years later, i'm still wondering...
-
This is kinda old. But I still have a UMO+ with everything stock. Would this still work??
Additionally, are there any mods for the terrible UMO extruder?
-
2 hours ago, Smithy said:
No I don't think it is the z-stop, you have a problem with x/y but not z as far as I can see it.
e-steps? I would say no, I looks more like a loose pulley. Check all, also the ones on the stepper motors.
The belts are ok?
You don't need a calibration card, take a piece of paper, that should do it as well.
Everything seems ok.
Retighten the pulley's? There doesn't seem to be any layer shifting though..
I thought about the calibration card because I don't trust my manual bed levelling...
-
@Smithy and @GregValiant,
do you guys think its got anything to do with the position of the z-stop??
It is a umo+ after all..
-
10 hours ago, Smithy said:
You are right @GregValiant, we are looking here from the top to print bed. I assumed it shows the bottom of the object, thus showing the first layer.
Looks really strange, hmmm, @LordHokage can you post your project file please.
This is the top layer (sorry for not clarifying in my post) with ironing. I thought that ironing the top might help but it didn't.
I don't have a calibration card, and there are none in Australia, where do you think I could get some?
10 hours ago, GregValiant said:I cut it out of my blow-up, but check out the poster's first image and the skirt above the model and then compare it to the way the skirt looks below the model.
Machines need to be exercised and it sounds like that one sat for a bit.
It was left and I bought it after a while but I keep printing every week on the weekends so I'd like to think that its exercised.
7 hours ago, Smithy said:Could also be something mechanical, because it looks like that the upper part of the skirt is ok, but the lower part has a huge space between the lines. Maybe a loose pulley and the whole thing shifted a little bit?
I'll retry tightening the pulleys but do you think its got something to do with the e-steps??
-
Hi everyone!
I hope you doing well and staying safe.
I turned on my UMO+ after a while and started to print. I seem to get these gaps and have tried to fiddle with settings and bed levelling to get it to work to no avail.
I've attached two pictures below that should give some idea of what's happening.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
-
I found this out from Scott Yu-Jan,
Water works really well. Carefully spray some or pour a few ml's near the print surface and give it some time. Due to capillary forces, the water goes under the print and it unsticks.
Ley me know how it goes for you 😉
-
1
-
-
I guess I'm resurrecting a "dead" thread.
I was going around and was wondering how I was going to make auto levelling on the UMO+ work. There wasn't any definitive guide on doing so. Does anyone have and resources or steps as to make the BLTouch work with the UMO?
-
Thank you @amedee!
Regarding your response, I still have some questions.
On 11/13/2021 at 11:15 PM, amedee said:a drop of oil now
What type of oil do you use and where? Do you just let it run through the "hole where the filament goes"?(I actually don't know its name ;).
On 11/13/2021 at 11:15 PM, amedee said:No, the power supply delivers 24V...
Does that mean that there is a native 24V point on the extruder for me to plug it in?
* Another couple questions: What are the best blocks (the black part the gantry sits on)? Any resources to use the BL-Touch with the UMO+? and What UMO+ firmware changes to make bed levelling work on pin 13 like "Automatic bed leveling for Ultimaker Original | F1OAT CNC experiments"?
Does anyone else like @f1oat or @vanalleswat have any suggestions for the bed levelling?
-
Hi everyone!
I have several questions about the E3D upgrade for my UMO+!
I'll list them below so people can answer them directly:
- Can I use a 12v version? If not, why?
- If I upgrade the extruder (to 1.7mm), can I get the 1.7mm version?
- If I use the original heating parts from the UMO+ and add that to the E3D, will I bypass the MOSFET changing?
- What other methods can I use to change from 2.85mm to 1.75mm?
- Is the E3D good for PLA/ABS?
- What is the deal with the Olsson Ruby Nozzle?
Sorry if that was a lot of questions, I just needed to clarify everything before I buy the E3D for my UMO+.
I hope that @neotko and @amedee have some suggestions...
Thanks for your time and response!
-
On 4/11/2018 at 8:51 AM, ataraxis said:
Make your Ultimaker Shield 24V compatible
The original Ultimaker Arduino Shield is specified for a power supply ranging from 16 to 20V. The MOSFETs (which power the heaters) are supplied by the input voltage directly, therefore - to use a 24V heater cartridge - you have to make the shield compatible to 24V.
To do so, you have to replace just a single component - the one which is labeled as IC1 on the shield. It's purpose is regulating down the input voltage (16-20V) to 12V, fortunately we can simply replace it by one which allows us to increase the input voltage to 24V - e.g. by TRACO 24120. After the replacement is done, the allowed input voltage is around 15-36V.
That means, if you ever have to, than you can still use the old/original 19V power supply.I'm super late here but I'll just ask a question.
Can I use the 12v version of the E3D v6 instead of the 24v version?
Thanks!
-
What are my options of using E3D v6 with the UMO+...
-
I am in Sunny Australia. Why?
-
Hi everyone!
Does anyone have any guides/resources on how I'd go about retrofitting (where do I even buy them) UM2 kits for my UMO+?
Thanks in advance!
-
Hi there!
The Fan is disabled (currently) but the picture attached is the best one I can provide at the moment.
-
Hi everyone,
I have been doing some hours on my UMO+ recently (I know it's old) but have had print stop at the initial layers because of filament messes such as the one attached. I have disabled retraction but the problem still persists. @neotko or anyone else, would you have any suggestions to the prevention of this problem?
Ultimaker Original Plus restarts when it reaches nominal bed temperature
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
hmmmmm
I've never had this problem before.
Also, I've just removed the heaters for my Hotend and tried it again and it did the same thing. Would posting my configuration.h and configuration_adv.h help??
Thanks though for replying @ahoeben