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Colorfabb bamboo settings

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Hi all,

Tried printing Bamboofill PLA from Colorfabb with settings provided by this thread.

No luck, cluttered nozzle, smelled like the neighbours were having a bbq. Cleaned the nozzle, ready to start again, but with what settings?

Strange thing was that Woodfill worked perfectly with standard Fast settings.

So, any ideas on settings for Bamboofill?

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Don't print slow (50mm/s minimum) change the minimum layer time to 0 to avoid auto slow down. Avoid retractions (disable if possible).

I think i print bamboofill at 220°c with fat layers (0.2 minimum).

For better results (less risk of clogging) print with a bigger nozzle (.6 or .8 will do)

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Before giving up on bamboo I tryed 0.8 with 0.23 layers and 50-60mm/s (that's a lot of mm3) with no retraction. I can print wood coconut and even laywood with no problem but bamboo it's something that I have give up. Maybe oiling the filament a-la-oldtimes?

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Bamboo. Hopeless. Colorfab was so nice to help with the best settings as well as with a new filament to compensate for all the trouble.

Bad luck, second wider nozzle is also ruined. Bamboo just does not work. Printing top layers is where it all goes wrong. Tried different temps, different speeds, different nozzles. The stuff burns inside the nozzle. Then it's game over.


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Well, I must agree with Jeex's post... This is a nightmare.

I've been trying to print with bamboo for a 3 weeks now, everyday ! One of my freind wanted a bamboo stuff. Well, she's gonna be disapointed because she's gonna get plastic !

I've tried everything :

From 185°C to 220°c.

From 30mm/s to 100mm/s.

With or without rétractons.

0.4 nozzle and 0.8 nozzle.

The result is always the same : Clogging !

I have the side fan update in order to avoid clogging in the bowtube. Well doesn't work either.

Do you guys have any ideas what kind of material I should get that is "easy" to print (coconut ? woodfill? etc...) ? Do they work well on an ultimaker original ? What kind of setting do you use ?


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I recommend you get a larger nozzle. It's easy to unscrew and screw in different nozzle sizes on the UMO. Make sure the nozzle takes 3mm filament and it should be the standard "reprap" thread. you can use the e3dv6 nozzles from either matterHackers.com or e3d-online but if you do you will need to remove or print out a lower profile fan shroud.


Anyway .6mm is a little more than twice the area of a .4mm nozzle and you should have much fewer clogs but quality will be similar. plus you can print much faster if you make the shell .6mm thick (one pass).

Oh - I forgot, lol. you can get high quality e3dv6 nozzles for less money at my store in usa gr5.org/store/ or elsewhere start at 3dsolex.com. I can't believe I forgot to mention that!

Edited by Guest

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Did it all. Tried it all. I am using the wider 3dsolex nozzles. Used all the settings recommended by Colorfabb.

Even tried a 0.8 nozzle. The stuff burns in the nozzle as soon as the filament does not flow for a moment. So results at best: darker stripes of burned bamboo.

Now if results were impressive, i would continue this experiment. But it looks and feels like cheap carton. The stuff we make out of straw where i live. So in the end, it's not worth it.

Thanks all for the help here. Back to PLA.

Next experiment: flexible filament, nylon.

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Strange i had no issues at all with bamboo fill, with a .8 or .6 nozzle it never clogged.

Without retractions and a good speed and fat layers the filament has no time to burn in the nozzle. I use at minimum .2mm layers and speeds of 50mm/s

But i agree that woodfill fine looks better than bamboofill

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