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lukem96

There must be a way?

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Okay i am prototyping a product using a ultimaker 2, 3mm PLA, and this was printed on 'normal quality', and i am doing a type of switch mechanism, and this side has to be flat on the bed, but it has to indent in a bit, about 1cmx3cm and 2mm thick, but as you can see because its hovering it comes out a mess, how can i fix this? Thank you very much! I really hope you can help

11798476_1027138337310722_2130165250_n.thumb.jpg.b4f1c6ca379b2fb92906ffa0f290fc86.jpg

11798476_1027138337310722_2130165250_n.thumb.jpg.b4f1c6ca379b2fb92906ffa0f290fc86.jpg

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A bridge so close to the bed might need bed off and fans at 100. So could use blue tape to make it stick to the bed. It will improve but bridges are hard to get perfectly clean without some supports. Try adding supports to the design.

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Looks like it's printed without support... which slicer (and which printer) do you use?

BTW: could you add your printer (and location) in your user profile please?

An advice is: print it with support...

If you model this piece by yourself, you can even make your own support structure. A narrow frame below the edges of the cuts (to support the perimeters) is sufficient. Leave a gap of about 0.15mm at the top of the support structure.

The rest of the surface can be bridged then very nicely.

Do you know the designing guide of the famous |Robert|?

Edited by Guest

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A bridge so close to the bed might need bed off and fans at 100. So could use blue tape to make it stick to the bed. It will improve but bridges are hard to get perfectly clean without some supports. Try adding supports to the design.

 

Sorry my friend i'm very new to all of this and i didn't understand much of that, so bridging is basically what i am trying to do? have a raised part of the object go across not touching the surface? What do you mean by bed off? and it only is about 2mm off the surface, can i still use supports?

Thank you for your help!

Edited by Guest

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Looks like it's printed without support... which slicer (and which printer) do you use?

BTW: could you add your printer (and location) in your user profile please?

An advice is: print it with support...

If you model this piece by yourself, you can even make your own support structure. A narrow frame below the edges of the cuts (to support the perimeters) is sufficient. Leave a gap of about 0.15mm at the top of the support structure.

The rest of the surface can be bridged then very nicely.

Do you know the designing guide of the famous |Robert|?

 

Thanks for your reply! Yes i didn't use any supports, i was using cura with the UM2. Okay I shall do that.

Is there anyway i can make them supports with Cura?

Thanks

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There's a checkbox in cura that says 'print with supports' (with quick settings) check that on if you want supports.

If you're in full settings, under basic tab there is a support subcatagory, just change support type from none to touching buildplate.

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If it's not super important that the reverse side in the picture is an unbroken section you could also print it in two parts and glue the piece with holes in it to the main body afterwards. Basically just cut out the rectangular piece and print it separately.

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That's about as good as it's going to get for bridging. Think about what's happening. Plastic is being extruded into mid air as a string and then cooling and freezing in place. There is no material underneath it to smoosh into which is what would normally happen. Because it's not smooshed into anything, the string will be slightly thinner than normal and there's where the gaps are coming from.

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To improve that kind of bridges use the bed cold and fans at 100 (for pla) and to make it stick to the bed use blue tape. Even so, that's a good brisge indeed. Gravity and printing on air...

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