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tomh

UM2 extruder issue

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Hello everyone, I had a clog in my UM2, I fixed it with thye Atomic way of unclogging, then I had a problem where the wheel at the back didn't push the materiall all the way - also fixed that, NOW when the material is all the way in (assuming), no material comes out of the extruder, I even manually moved the material forward, no luck!

Any suggestions? (The material came out of the nozzle while performing the Atomic procedure so I know it should come out)

Thanks

Tomi

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There are several places for the filament to get stuck along the path - where the bowden ends, where the peek part starts and ends. Usually if you just pull it out a few inches and push it back in it gets past these lips or edges or catches. But to avoid this I always cut the end of my filament to a point before feeding it in.

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Hi everyone! Seems that "extruder issues" are many... so, I wish to share my experience:

1) before inserting the filament check the feeder, on mine there was a problem about the ball bearing that stuck due to lack of space and issue on pivot point of the lever that hold the ball bearing

iVBB5l.jpg

2) change the original spool-holder with this one https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-friction-um2-spoolholder

3) if you print with ABS I thought that the best way to clean the hot end is with a PTFE rod that fits inside the hole so you can clean inside without inserting other material that could even worsen the problem ... I made this for that dirty work : aIbQxV.jpg

4) always for ABS print, try to flip over the right fan http://imageshack.com/a/img907/6607/5nRvUV.jpg5nRvUV.jpg

Wwn3Dp.jpg

use some kapton and if you still have adhesion problems clean the kapton with a paper towel wet with acetone.. it will become a little tricky to take off your print when finished ... but it will not unstuck from the bed while printing.....

Have a good print day ;)

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4) always for ABS print, try to flip over the right fan

 

Fascinating! Why not flip both fans? Do you do 100% fan? 30% fan? This is interesting idea. Flipping the fan I imagine will reduce it's cooling power by maybe 90%? That's a good thing for ABS as too much fan causes bad layer adhesion.

Tell me more about this!

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4) always for ABS print, try to flip over the right fan

 

I did not hear that one before, can you explain the benefits of this (compared to just lower the amount of fan%)

 

When printing square object, I've noticed that the right side was with problems (delamination and deformation). While I was watching the print head moving above the piece, I've noticed that the right side was always under a fan blow! So while the print head was on it doing its work, the left fan was blowing on the printing area and when the print head was on the other side, the right fan goes to the area previously deposited freezing it down again! But this was not happening on the Left side of the piece, where only the left fan was blowing on it just the time the print head was doing its work. :)

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4) always for ABS print, try to flip over the right fan

 

Fascinating!  Why not flip both fans?  Do you do 100% fan?  30% fan?  This is interesting idea.  Flipping the fan I imagine will reduce it's cooling power by maybe 90%?  That's a good thing for ABS as too much fan causes bad layer adhesion.

Tell me more about this!

 

Because you could have this problem http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#pillowing

Fan was on default settings 50% - Print head Temp 240°C (but even 250°C works) bed temp 80 °C - Brim is on.. .as you can see from images :)

Oh! I forgot to tell that I've tried to take away the right side fan but,... it is connected in series with the left one! so, the fast way to rip off of the fan was flip it over! :)

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Finally someone who uses a ptfe to clean the nozzle. Said so many times... :O

 

Yes! teflon, for me, was the only way to clean the clogged nozzle, because every try I made to  clean it with "the atomic method" just left it more clogged! So after two try I've thought that the only way was push away the excess of abs with something that not stick with it and not fuse while pushing it out! PTFE was the only choice ;)

Forgot to tell that with a PTFE rod it's damn faster ! You have just to heat the print head at 260°C (in the worst case), retire the filament the amount you need to take off the bowden tube from the print head and push the PTFE rod down the way to the nozzle ;)

Edited by Guest
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